Help needed for power steering 55 first series

[Gundu7475]

I'm currently in the process of restoring my 1955.1 Chevy 4400. My question is about power steering. I'd love to put power steering in the truck but not sure what fits and what doesn't. I'm obviously new to this. I've gotten some parts from classic parts and old Chevy trucks and the people on the phones aren't too sure if the parts that they typically sell (for smaller trucks 3100,3600 etc) will fit my truck. It's a 1.5 ton. Thanks for any help. I need to know exactly what to buy to make the conversion. Thx again.

[dwcsr]

This is what a 4400 would have had originally or very similar.
http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/blog/i...ower-steering/

I don't know of a late model setup that fits that frame. Try over on www.stovebolt.com

[Gundu7475]

Thanks for responding.... it's much appreciated. I didn't know oldchevytryucks had links like that. Good to know. Thanks!

[mrf1002u]

Originally Posted by Gundu7475

I'm currently in the process of restoring my 1955.1 Chevy 4400. My question is about power steering. I'd love to put power steering in the truck but not sure what fits and what doesn't. I'm obviously new to this. I've gotten some parts from classic parts and old Chevy trucks and the people on the phones aren't too sure if the parts that they typically sell (for smaller trucks 3100,3600 etc) will fit my truck. It's a 1.5 ton. Thanks for any help. I need to know exactly what to buy to make the conversion. Thx again.

Not sure if you want stock or not, but on my '53 3800 1 ton I'll be using a push pull style PS box from a 79-85 Toyota 4x4: solid front axle not IFS.

Not sure on your 55.1, but the box is almost identical design as the '53 box.

Biggest issue I see is working out the pitman arm. There are flat pimans available, but are slightly shorter than the stock toy part and may be way shorter than yours. I suspect mounting the box lower and in the frame rather than on top may correct the issue but could be hindered by your engine of choice. I'll be running a 250 I6, so that may work for me. Still in the planning stage and working on the 14 bolt rear end first.

Notice in the picture of a kit for an FJ40 conversion for this same steering box, they are already using a GM pump. They say it works better than the Toyota pump anyway.

Here are some sites to peruse. Maybe this will work for you too.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/1947...8.<br /> html

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...br /> 303990/

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/294884/


Larry W.

[1project2many]

What are you using for linkage? The larger TF trucks have pretty large steering components. Is it different with the AD trucks? I suppose if it's never going to be loaded to max capacity it would be ok?

[mrf1002u]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

What are you using for linkage? The larger TF trucks have pretty large steering components. Is it different with the AD trucks? I suppose if it's never going to be loaded to max capacity it would be ok?

Good question. Haven't gotten that far yet. The pictures are of others trucks. I know some of the pitmans can be ordered with toyota on one end and chevy ball joint or drag link taper at the other end since they do chevy axle swaps under those trucks.

This one appears to have been reamed for the stock drag link. This one also has the stock toy pitman that was heated and flattened. I wouldn't condone that though. If the commercially available flat pitmans are too short, I will be looking at tucking the gear box inside the frame and then have the pitman shaft come through the frame to make the drag link level to the ground. May not be an option, even with an I6. One of the pics shows one done this way, but not sure what truck it is. Chevy engine, but that means nothing. Also I confess that I know nothing about the size of Big Bolt truck steering components. Might not even apply. Just an option to look into.

A member on another forum claims the safe way to lengthen a pitman is to cut off the wanted ends and then fit them INSIDE holes in a 3/4" thick bar stock cut to desired length. Then they are welded into the holes with low carbon rod. This way the weld only retains the ends in the holes and the bar stock takes the force. Sounds logical but I am no metallurgist. When I asked, the maker of one of the flat "billet" pitmans not pictured, told me it wasn't feasible to make a custom length one, based on cost.

Larry W.