Moving to Utah Couple of ?'s

[Matt Man]

Looks like I will be moving to Utah this year, I have a couple of questions...

I want to drive my truck all year around, I will be moving to the Salt Lake City area which I heard use road salt. Anything I should do to my truck to protect it? I already undercoated the rust prone areas.

Also how is the smog situation? I know you have to smog ONCE a year, since my truck is from California, will it have to pass with California numbers, or will they smog it as a federal truck. How strict are they with looking under the hood, I don't have a certified intake manifold with a CARB EO number, but still retains the use of a EGR valve. I passed California emissions at a gold star station which is more strict.

And finally with the safety inspection, Will I need to get mudflaps since my truck is lifted with bigger tires? Only 4" lift with 33's on 15 x 8 wheels, so they don't stick out.

If anybody is from there, or knows anything about this let me know thanks.

[Zane M]

Short of not driving it during inclement weather, you just need to be religious about washing it as soon as possible after driving it on the wet, salty roads.
Unfortunately you can virtually be guaranteed of developing rust. There are a lot of nooks, crannies, and generally areas of poor drainage on these trucks that trap salty residue and eventually rust. Usually from the inside out. My Grandpa fixed rust/repainted his '73 every 3 to 5 years.

I believe Utah's smog numbers are based on the federal standards. If you are passing California tailpipe emission standards you should not have any issues. You may need to tune your carb however, due to the change in elevation.

You don't have to have any "certified" replacement parts, but all of the emission equipment that was on the truck originally has to be there.
So if we are talking about the '81 in your signature, you will need the EGR, AIR, and a catalytic converter.
You used to be able to find shops that would overlook the visual if the vehicle would pass the sniffer, but the state has cracked down and there are fewer and fewer shops that will look the other way.
The seal on your gas cap(s) also have to pass a seal test.
As far as mudflaps, while I am sure there is a specification(and I don't really know or care what it is), the reality is you probably have a 50/50 chance that they will say something about it. I have had some places not say a word about my truck('87 V20, stock height, 265/75/16 tires on steel wheels) and others say I need mud flaps. I ended up putting flaps on mine because I do flip a lot of debris up on the body. I would suggest just giving it a try without, and worst case you fail, put some mud flaps on for inspection, then remove them(if you want) once you have passed.
Welcome to the state!

[Matt Man]

Thanks for the info, I will probably use mud flaps to keep the slop off, I was just up by SLC last week and the amount of salt on my car was crazy. I just hope they won't smog my truck as a California truck, because the number of NOX and HC ect is ALOT lower than federal.

[Zane M]

I know the years are different, but here are some numbers if you want to compare. For my '87, the max HC is 800 PPM. My truck generally tests at 95-100. the max CO% is 3.5, and I measure .006 at idle and .336 at 2500 RPM.

[Matt Man]

WOW, the max HC here is 154. I got around 120, but I had a old leaky quadrajet at the time, I have a brand new one now.

Another question... is there anywhere to wheel around the SLC area? I used to snowboard so I guess I can get back into that.

[cadillac_al]

Up here, people park their nice vehicles in the winter and drive a winter buggy, unless they buy new vehicles every 3 years. I wash my truck to death every spring and try to stay ahead of the rust. In 15-20 years when it gets beyond repair I plan to buy another southwest truck and start all over again. There is nothing like an NP203 on snowy and icy roads.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I would recommend coating the truck with fluidfilm before it sees any winter driving. I went overkill on my winter 95 Caprice and coated everything with a nice think coating.

[Matt Man]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

I would recommend coating the truck with fluidfilm before it sees any winter driving. I went overkill on my winter 95 Caprice and coated everything with a nice think coating.

I will look into that, thanks.

[slotard]

If you passed with a non CARB EO intake manifold I suspect they didn't knOw what they were looking at.

Congrats on the move, I need to do the same.

[Matt Man]

Originally Posted by slotard

If you passed with a non CARB EO intake manifold I suspect they didn't knOw what they were looking at.

Congrats on the move, I need to do the same.

I'm pretty stoked at moving, too expensive here!

As far as the manifold goes, I put black tape over the Made In USA sticker before I went, honestly with all the vacuum line under there its impossible to see it.

CARB Definitions of Aftermarket Parts
Replacement Part
“Replacement part” means any aftermarket part intended to replace an original equipment emissions-related part and which is functionally identical to the original equipment part in all respects which in any way affect emissions (including durability) or a consolidated part.
California Code of Regulations (CCR) Title 13 § 1900 (b) (20)
Replacement parts do not require a CARB exemption to be installed on vehicles in California.
Examples include replacement air filter elements, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor caps, chromed valve covers, replacement EGR valves, Intake manifolds with same provisions as OEM, and replacement carburetors. (Note: A replacement EGR valve or carburetor must be specified as replacement, by the part manufacturer, for the vehicle on which it is installed).

[Matt Man]

Sorry, didn't mean to get off track with the smog law crap. Thanks for the replies. Any more info on rust products?