14ff disc brake conversion?

[JacobSchni]

Thinking in the future of upgrading axles to 1tons, know of a cheap set. What are the pros/cons of converting drum to disc. what kinda cost would i be looking at?

['63GENIII]

I got my 14BFF off of a '05 2500HD. Disc to disc with E brake cables attached. 300 bones. Guys parents wanted the axle out of their planter box.

IIRC, there are 2 different styles. 10.5" has the removable pinion support. 11.5" has non removable support and hard to get aftermarket cool stuff for.

If you have a drum axle already, they are pretty reliable and if maintained also work really well.

Disc conversions often use Eldo calipers which will arguably give you the bling of rear disc brakes with possibly worse braking than the drums that are already on there. E brake hardware is always a thought as well. Ive seen a couple of people convert using the newer GM truck hardware but then why not get the whole axle?

In the end, had I not picked up the axle so cheap, I probably would have stayed with drums. I think it would probably cost more to convert than the axle itself.

[slotard]

The cheapest option is to use front calipers off a 1/2 or 3/4 4WD, there are lots of kits that do that. Downside is no ebrake.

I'd love to find a modern 14FF for $300. I'd probably try to adapt it to the 1975 14FF sitting in my bed right now, as it has the gearing/locker that I want and the newer ones are wider.

[JIMs70GMC]

Look here. http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Artic...ble/index.html

[mcmlxix]

Right Gear had brackets to mount the newer brakes on the older 14 BFF axle... not listed on the website so you have to call direct and ask...

Copied from pirate4x4 :::

I've got an '04 AAM 10.5 (14-bolt) under my rig now with the stock discs and a TMR shave. I just went out and measured it and the WMS to WMS was right about 68.5" as I measured it with my set of rollers on there, so it's about as accurate as I could get without dismounting the wheels again.

and

Right gear and axle in Salinas sells the bracket you need. Give Dan or Jose a call at 831-424-3717

http://rightgear.com/welcome.htm

http://www.ebay.com/usr/gears-r-us?rt=nc

************

I bought a complete AAM 11.5 rear assembly, rotor to rotor for $400 shipped. There are 2 versions, One with a counter weight and without. both have the same twin piston rear calipers with drum in hat e-brake.

www.car-parts.com
/\
||
This is a list of dealers and you can sort by distance. Mine was shipped from Arizona to Vegas strapped to a pallet. I picked it up at the depot to save a few bucks.

If you do go this route, make sure they include all the brake parts including calipers and rotors. Also, stay in the dry climate area so rust isn't a problem...

The picture is of the Right Gear adapter bracket...

[v30crewcab]

if you want ebrake, the factory setup is the way to go, and its cheaper to get an axle with it already.

[slotard]

The problem is that the newer axles with factory discs are wider.

['63GENIII]

Originally Posted by slotard

The problem is that the newer axles with factory discs are wider.

Agreed. IIRC, my previous rear D60 was 65 or 66. Weird thing is, the 05 14BFF lines up almost perfect with the 3/4T D44 that I have in front. Never noticed that the front was wider than the back before. I think it looks pretty decent now though.
Chris

[mcmlxix]

Here is my 72 with an 05 14BFF AAM rear on H2 wheels and 315/75/17 BFG tires. Looks perfect to me.



And yes, GM designed the front to be wider than the rear. I think it looks better with the rear not to tucked under the truck. Also, wider is better...

[slotard]

On the other hand, for a tow rig with stock fenders (or in my case a utility bed), wider might not work.

[gmachinz]

After its all said and done, swapping in a newer rear assembly is the way to go I'd have to agree. Ebrake cables are easy-just measure overall length, take closeup pics of both attachment ends you need for reference and call or email controlcables.com and they can build any cable you need. Figure roughly $125-150 for a set of custom cables to work with your truck.

[gmachinz]

http://www.controlcables.com

[mcmlxix]

Originally Posted by slotard

On the other hand, for a tow rig with stock fenders (or in my case a utility bed), wider might not work.

Different wheels with a higher offset will bring them back in if that's what you need. A lower profile 10 ply tire will also help with towing..

How about a picture of your truck?

[slotard]

Nothing special. I found a 1975 14ff with the 3.73s I want and a G80 locker (very streetable I hear) to replace the 4.10 open I have now. Planning an LS and 4L80E when I find the right deal. Maybe turbo when I get bored.

Tires are in great shape so I doubt I'll replace them any time soon unless a turbo LS makes them wear out too quickly and I'd rather not recess the fronts.

[mcmlxix]

Well it looks like you could cut a larger square out of the bedside to match the factory opening. Maybe add some fender flares... Custom but functional that would match the front fender openings and allow bigger tires if needed....

[slotard]

I could, I'd rather not.

I think I've decided I should just buy a no-ebrake setup for the 3.73 G80 axle I have sitting in the back. The axle will bolt right in, which is convenient, and since my ebrake isn't working anyway (hasn't since I bought the truck) I'm not losing much. I can chock it if I need to (obviously I will for replacing the axle).

Thoughts on which kit is best? Any options I should go with?

Also, I probably ought to replace the front brake hoses. As with many components on it I suspect they're original. I'm talking about the soft part, since there's no real rust on the truck the hardlines seem fine.