Lower Control Arm Shaft Centering Rivet

[GASoline71]

So I removed the upper and lower control arms over the weekend. The rivet that centers the lower shaft in place fell out as it was rusted in half. I'm guessing this is an easier fix than I am thinking it is... right?



Also need to replace the studs that hold the upper control arm on. Looks like LMC still sources these. Bang 'em out and bang 'em in?




Any advice on these two items would be awesome. Never had a front end down to parade rest like this.

Gary

[dirtyjim]

i think i used a standard 3/8 or 7/16 nut and bolt to hold the control arm shaft bracket when i did mine. one of my rivets was gone and the other was very loose. check the head of a 3/8 bolt and see if it fits the hole in the control arm shaft. some have also used 1/2" allen head cap screws. i was going to but the holes in the shaft weren't deep enough

[68 P.O.S.]

Check out this thread, I copied it and it works just fine. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501241

[68 P.O.S.]

Since you're there, you should upgrade to the 9/16" u-bolts while you're at it if you haven't already.

[im4darush]

What is the real world benefit to the 9/16" U-Bolts? I understand that they are thicker in diameter and stronger, but I don't think I have ever heard of the thinner ones breaking off under normal driving conditions. Off road and racing applications I can understand since everything is pushed to the limits.

[dirtyjim]

Originally Posted by im4darush

What is the real world benefit to the 9/16" U-Bolts? I understand that they are thicker in diameter and stronger, but I don't think I have ever heard of the thinner ones breaking off under normal driving conditions. Off road and racing applications I can understand since everything is pushed to the limits.

the previous owner of my 67 had one on each side break, in fact we swapped the u-bolts on the passenger side in his driveway before I took possession of the truck. if or when I breaks you will be towing it home

[im4darush]

Did not know this was a common issue, but thanks for the info.

[Gonepostal]

One on drivers side on my 68 just broke I put 1/2 in u-bolts in to replace them all.

[iostorm]

I upgraded all to 9/16 and grade 8

[iostorm]

More photos

[iostorm]

Let me give you a tip on the new cross shafts. Number one if you can afford it go to tubular a arms, number two if you dont and you use new cross shafts they say to torque them to 65 ft lbs.

Don't waste your time they will just bind up no matter how evenly spaced they are. Just get them evenly spaced, snug the end caps don to meet the a arms and tack weld them.

Wallah they will move totally free and you dont have to fight with them.

My thought are the new cross shafts will outlive me and if I ever had it apart again I would throw them in the trash in favor of new tubular ones.

[GASoline71]

I see LMC only offers the lower control arm shaft U-bolts in 9/16".

Gary

[iostorm]

Summit has them for cheaper

[GASoline71]

I got the 9/16" U-bolts from Summit Racing.



They're made by Dorman and here's the part number: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-13503

$8 bucks per side with $5 bucks shipping. $21 bones to my doorstep.

The kits don't come with washers, I picked up some thick grade 8 washers at the local Ace Hardware. Will have to grind on them a bit to fit inside the rails of the crossmember.

Gary

[68 P.O.S.]

Nice, those are the same ones I used. They're pretty good quality too. Since they're the Dormans, I went to Auto Zone and ordered them. Had 'em the next day.

Did you decide on what to do about the rivet?

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by 68 P.O.S.

Did you decide on what to do about the rivet?

I happen to have some grade 8 bolts that fit perfectly. They're 5/16" or 3/8" bolts, but not 100% sure. Once bolted into the crossmember I will probably have to cut off the end of the bolt off if they are way too long. I shimmed the bolt head with 2 washers to get it to engage the drilled centering hole in the cross shaft.

Gary