"Travel Tanks" - AUX Fuel Tanks

[K2spy04]

Hey everyone,

This will be my first post on here, but certainly not the first time you all have helped me out! I have a '69 C20 Camper Special with the two after market Travel Tanks on the driver's and passenger side. I purchased this truck in July 2015 and found the floorboard manual selector switch was seized up, and the tanks were removed from the equation and the cab tank was hooked up directly.

I'm planning to restore the setup to its former glory. The gentleman I purchased the truck from obviously had issues with the fuel system and he told me he had removed the two tanks from the fuel system. He replaced the cab tank, the sending unit, the fuel pump and ultimately the carb. We had the lovely pleasure of purchasing the truck and on the ride home it stalled out on us. Came to find out he had replaced the fuel line between the pump and carb, but opted to bend a loop in the too long piece of fuel line causing it to vapor lock. Lucky for us it was a $10 fix and the truck runs like a champ.

That unfortunately leaves me with a bunch of questions as to what could had lead him to take the AUX tanks out of the fuel system. I found out tonight the driver's side tank was completely full and I am in the process of getting rid of that gas (not going to put it in my tank).

The entire system looks pretty straight forward and I'm not expecting any major issues, but from what I have gleamed from the numerous threads about the travel tanks is this:

-There is a sending unit in each tank, but the units are no longer available and a universal sending will have to be used

-The sending unit must be 0-90 ohms

-The universal sending units do not have a fuel pick-up line and I will have to have one welded in to hook up to the fuel selector valve

-The fuel selector valve is 4 port with one being the outflow

The biggest question I have at the moment is that the tanks do not appear to be vented, so I am assuming this is achieved by a vented gas cap (which the ones on my tanks are not).

If anyone has some input it would be greatly appreciated. I hope to put up pictures and any/all part numbers I end up using to help consolidate down a few of these threads

Thanks!

[El Dorado Jim]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=travel+tanks check this out

[K2spy04]

Thanks Jim,

I remember seeing your post and have visited both of those sites. The sending units look like the ones I am planning to order from Summit racing. Was I correct that the sending unit do not have a fuel pick-up tube and an afyer market solution is required?

[Hack71]

On my 71 I have a drivers side Travel Tank, from what I've seen these tanks vary in size, some had sending units and some did not, the two that I have owned did not. My tank vents out the top, I will try to get you a picture. The vent is a piece of copper line. My Tank is rusted out on the bottom, I would like to find a new tank! I cant find anyone that sells them, I found a lot of tanks for sale to relocate it to the rear of the truck, but I do not like the idea of the filler neck on the inside of the bed or at a new location on the side of the truck and then I would have to relocate my spare. I'm going to see if a welding shop can fab one up off of my old one. My 72 C20 had two Travel Tanks no sending units, both trucks have the switch on the floor.

[Hack71]

Here are two pics of the tank that came out of the 71 C10

[DeadheadNM]

The two sets of TT I've had were both of a design similar to the 71-72 OEM aux tank. The one set I'm trying to sell to avoid scrapping lacks vents or sending units. The pair in my K1500 have sending units - not totally sure about vents but the caps are not vented. I doubt the tanks are. Good luck with your build.

[El Dorado Jim]

I weld, so I added some threaded outlets and made some of my own pick up tubes, call Transfer Flow,they used to sell the sending units with pick up tubes.....and Hack71, a welding shop can build you a new tank, have them weld you in whatever outlets you need

[K2spy04]

The special carriage bolt and washer that hold the tanks in is proving to be pretty difficult for me. Once I get them off I will have a better idea of what I am working with. I've seen three or four different designs in the tanks so far, hoping for the best.

[Gromit]

It was surprising but I believe that those travel tank mounting carriage bolts are difficult to find in that length - I ended up soaking my 46 year old originals in molasses for about a month the remove the rust so I was glad the bolts had come off without damage and I can reuse them.

Thinking they would be a standard item I looked for replacement bolts at Home Depot, various hardware stores, farm supply stores and finally even "The Bolt Depot" a nut & bolt specialist that I'm a fan of - and no dice for a 14" long carriage bolt (I believe that was the length dimension and I cannot recall the diameter - either 3/8" or 1/2").

[K2spy04]

I have to do some measuring, but looks like something similar to this will fit the build: fastenal

[Gromit]

Tho$e look like they will work - I just measured my original tank mounting bolts and they are 14.5" long from the threaded end to the bottom of the carriage bolt head.

They used two nuts (jammed) and two 1/2" washers, one flat 3/8" washer and one 3/8" lock washer on each bolt.

The bolts are 3/8" diameter (I don't know the threads per inch)

These bolts are for travel tanks are 10-1/8" thick

BTW, I believe my tanks were made or at least sold by Colorado Leisure Products, Inc. Box 129 Broomfield, Colorado - They were in the recreational vehicle business. I think they are still around but no longer make the tanks or the parts for the tanks.

[tcrist]

MCmaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com has the carriage bolts.
just go to the web site and type in Carriage bolts in the search "find" field. It will let you pick from size and length.

[El Dorado Jim]

I found my bolts at a place called( U neac) fasteners in Sacramento http://www.u-neacfasteners.com/ I used heavy flat washers on the bottom and nylock nuts,I made new oblong washers for the bed

[68 50th]

Some pics of the Travel Tanks that was installed in my 71.

[K2spy04]

I finally got the driver's side tank down this morning. I ended up having to grind off the bottom washer/bolt, only to end up to find out that the carriage nut was seized to the side of the channel through the tank. So i had to cut the bolt from the top. Good news is the tank is in great shape and I have a 5 bolt sending unit!

Looking at the picture attached it looks like the tank is unlined. I know looking at some of the old advertisements that the plastic lined tank was an option. I am thinking of using the POR-15 tank restoration system, but I have a few hesitations. There is a support wall on the inside of the tank that is positioned to give it strength. Do you think I will have any issues working the POR-15 through and around with that support wall?

[DeadheadNM]

Is the inside of the tank rusty and bad off? If not, I'd use as is. Some radiator shops will also refurbish gas tanks.

[K2spy04]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Is the inside of the tank rusty and bad off? If not, I'd use as is. Some radiator shops will also refurbish gas tanks.

The inside doesn't look bad from what I can tell, but there is a layer of sludge on the bottom. I'm thinking I will run some marine cleaner through with some metal nuts and see what it looks like afterwards.

I was thinking if I don't treat the insides of at least putting a fuel filter after the tank before the selector valve.

[sodly]

I have the same tanks in my 66 and I still run 'em.

[SoCoC10]

I just pulled 2 of these steel tanks off of a 68 C10 longbed. One of the tanks was fine the other had rusted through on the top. I also have a pair of plastic saddle/auxiliary tanks that the filler neck is in the wheel well so there are no additional holes or gas doors needed. If any of you guys want any of them send me a PM. I'll post pictures of them in the for sale area. Unfortunately I would not be able to ship any of the tanks for obvious reasons.

[dazza]

I used Por-15 inside mine. Forget where I finally found the carriage bolts, but because mine were also seized up through the channel, I spent the extra $ and used stainless for the new ones.

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by K2spy04

Hey everyone,

This will be my first post on here, but certainly not the first time you all have helped me out! I have a '69 C20 Camper Special with the two after market Travel Tanks on the driver's and passenger side. I purchased this truck in July 2015 and found the floorboard manual selector switch was seized up, and the tanks were removed from the equation and the cab tank was hooked up directly.

I'm planning to restore the setup to its former glory. The gentleman I purchased the truck from obviously had issues with the fuel system and he told me he had removed the two tanks from the fuel system. He replaced the cab tank, the sending unit, the fuel pump and ultimately the carb. We had the lovely pleasure of purchasing the truck and on the ride home it stalled out on us. Came to find out he had replaced the fuel line between the pump and carb, but opted to bend a loop in the too long piece of fuel line causing it to vapor lock. Lucky for us it was a $10 fix and the truck runs like a champ.

That unfortunately leaves me with a bunch of questions as to what could had lead him to take the AUX tanks out of the fuel system. I found out tonight the driver's side tank was completely full and I am in the process of getting rid of that gas (not going to put it in my tank).

The entire system looks pretty straight forward and I'm not expecting any major issues, but from what I have gleamed from the numerous threads about the travel tanks is this:

-There is a sending unit in each tank, but the units are no longer available and a universal sending will have to be used

-The sending unit must be 0-90 ohms

-The universal sending units do not have a fuel pick-up line and I will have to have one welded in to hook up to the fuel selector valve

-The fuel selector valve is 4 port with one being the outflow

The biggest question I have at the moment is that the tanks do not appear to be vented, so I am assuming this is achieved by a vented gas cap (which the ones on my tanks are not).

If anyone has some input it would be greatly appreciated. I hope to put up pictures and any/all part numbers I end up using to help consolidate down a few of these threads

Thanks!

I would use a new style electric motor switching valve for your two saddle tanks and get rid of the tank behind the seat, I just put one of these valves in my son's '73, got rid of the old style solenoid valve, it works great, I had to use the newer switch on the dash for it also, has a momentary switch in each direction....when I say newer, I am talking about the ones used in the '83 and up square body trucks....I am planning on changing all of mine to the newer style, including my '72 with travel tanks...hard to find the old solenoid valves with 3/8" ports....autozone has the new valves and dash switches..I will make a bracket below the dash for the switch on my '72...unless I can find a toggle switch with momentary on each direction....

[AASmedic]

Anyone know where I can find Travel Tanks parts??

[K2spy04]

Originally Posted by AASmedic

Anyone know where I can find Travel Tanks parts??

Here is a list of the parts I am using to rehab my tanks:

4 way valve

Sending unit

Fuel pickup tube

3/8 Bung

I have yet to find a 90ohm universal sending unit that has a built in fuel pickup line, hence the extra items.

[K2spy04]

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

I would use a new style electric motor switching valve for your two saddle tanks and get rid of the tank behind the seat, I just put one of these valves in my son's '73, got rid of the old style solenoid valve, it works great, I had to use the newer switch on the dash for it also, has a momentary switch in each direction....when I say newer, I am talking about the ones used in the '83 and up square body trucks....I am planning on changing all of mine to the newer style, including my '72 with travel tanks...hard to find the old solenoid valves with 3/8" ports....autozone has the new valves and dash switches..I will make a bracket below the dash for the switch on my '72...unless I can find a toggle switch with momentary on each direction....

I considered the electric motor style valve and switch, but I like the old school look and feel of the manual valve. If it doesn't end up working out maybe I could turn the valve handle into an electrical switch and go that route. Old school look with modern electrical.

[El Dorado Jim]

what parts are you looking for?