NP440 MY6 trans install in a 64-66?

[dracko]

I've gotten some very good info from folks on the board already, but have a couple questions on installing this trans in my '64. It will be behind a 1968 327.

Firstly, does it matter if the engine is in the forward or rearward set of motor mount holes? I was planning to use the rear holes if that will work with the repop shroud from LMC.

I have the non-hydraulic bell housing with the clutch fork on the drivers side like the sm465 that was in there, Can I just reuse the original clutch fork and Z bar? Same throwout bearing?

The new bell housing doesn't have mount flanges/holes for the crossmember, so I'll be installing a rear crossmember. Can I just remove the old bellhousing crossmember? or is it better to just leave it if it doesnt interfere with anything?

Lastly, after sliding in the engine/trans and bolting the motor mounts up, it should be centered side to side, How do I make sure the the trans is sitting at the proper angle?

Thanks for any help with this, I'd really like to get things prepped as best as possible in advance.

[Captainfab]

There's really no reason to not keep the engine in the original rear location. Especially if you plan to use original style parts such as the fan shroud. I would go with the short water pump as well.

Yes you can keep your original clutch linkage, but I would use the fork that comes with the bellhousing and trans. The TO bearing is specific to the clutch being used. That should be a clutch assembly for the application for the trans.

Yes I would remove the original bellhousing crossmember. For a trans crossmember you can use a factory crossmember for a '63-'87 truck, Suburban, etc.

To check the angle of your installed engine and trans, check to see that the angle of the trans output shaft is parallel to the pinion in your differential, or at least within 1 or 2 degrees.

[Greg63]

I used my stock '63 bellhousing on my MY6 swap.
I was fortunate enough to have the MY6 with the GM bolt pattern so it mated up perfectly. The front bearing retainer on the MY6 might have been turned down to fit the bore of the bellhousing before I purchased it - I cant say for sure - but it did go right in. The input shaft size was the same as the Muncie M21 I swapped out so I was able to utilize the stock throwout bearing and clutch fork.
I didn't need a rear crossmember.
Greg.

[dracko]

Hey John I was hopin you'd chime in on this, thanks for the info, that pretty much covers everything except for actually dropping it in, haha. I got a box of extra linkages and stuff with the trans and there's a clutch fork in there. Good to hear short water pump is preferred here cuz I already installed and painted one so an exchange is outta the question, short was the stock setup in '68 I think.

Hey Greg, you got lucky finding that MY6 with the gm bolt pattern! good score. So sounds like the input shaft/throwout bearing won't be an issue. Cheers.

[cortcomp]

I used all my stock components, and had the input shaft retainer turned down as well.

[65Robb]

Any updates or pics of this install?