Battery Gauge - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

xenocide · 09-22-2003, 06:44 PM

This is the most my battery/amp gauge ever shows; is this normal? This is at idle and it is exactly the same at cruising. I haven't had any problems since I replaced my alternator/voltage regulator 6 months ago or so, but I just wanted to know what everyone else was seeing on their vehicles - if it was similar etc.

I'm also considering adding some extra autometer guages for oil temp, transmission temp, and maybe another. - any suggestions to what other gauges to add? I just like to have a good idea of how things are doing. On my other cars I have a palm pilot with a datalogger program connected to the diagnostic port to view all my timing, knock, temps etc. so I guess I want to be more informed when I'm driving the beast. Thanks in advance!

smokekiki · 09-22-2003, 06:48 PM

Mine will jump to the 2nd line above the half way mark.After about 2seconds it goes where yours is.

OldSkool71 · 09-22-2003, 06:53 PM

that is where mine is at all the time as well. Only barely moves when some other electrical item is turned on. Haven't had any problems in that area. (wood)knock-knock..

**FRENCHBLUE72** · 09-22-2003, 06:59 PM

Is that guage supposed to work??? None of my truck's ever had that guage work..

xenocide · 09-22-2003, 07:00 PM

Cool, then it must be normal. It's just one less thing I have to worry about then.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 09-22-2003, 07:57 PM

The amp meters work somewhat. They are an indicator more than they are a gauge. I would check the two fuses to make sure and check the amp output of your alternator. If the battery and charging is good the amp meters will go back to neutral fairly quickly. Also, check for discharge when you pull the lights on without the engine working. It should discharge about 1/2 way.

Jim

palallin · 09-22-2003, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by FRENCHBLUE72
Is that guage supposed to work??? None of my truck's ever had that guage work..

Glad I'm not the only one

Orion 762 · 09-23-2003, 12:13 AM

If I looked at the schematics right, it looks more like it's setup to read voltage instead of "amps". If it's a voltmeter, then it's just "indicating" the battery voltage. A true "ampmeter" will show the "draw" of charging or discharging current from the battery.

Any ideas on whether I'm right on this??

Orion 762

70short · 09-23-2003, 01:59 AM

The amp meter measures the load (accessory draw)across the battery or A shunt. The volt meter is measuring voltage to ground. They look similar in the way they are physically hooked up, But one measures volt the other amps. I hope this made sence.

BadAssChevy502 · 09-23-2003, 02:33 AM

Hi,
I'm working on my second truck now and neither one ever worked I have never found out why it didn’t.
I even took one out and placed it in a wire setup where it should work and it still didn't so I gave up on it.

If someone ever figures this out let me know it’s nice when all the gauges works
Is there also a gauge for the blank one on the right hand side of the steering wheel? Or is this a special option.

(I'm sorry if the spelling isn't correct,i'm trying the best I can )

1972 Chevy Pickup longbed 502ci Th400

"IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T TRY TO FIX IT"

**'68OrangeSunshine** · 09-23-2003, 05:43 AM

I think options for the phantom (#3) position gauge were clock or vacuum (manifold pressure). Both pretty rare.

webhendrix · 09-23-2003, 08:31 AM

I had replaced my regulator and then my alternator. My gauge worked and would go past that mark as it was over charging.
(I had probable damaged it trying to figgure out my charging problems. It was the alternator.)
I replaced the regulator again and now it stays where yours is. The over charging problem was fixed with the (2cd) new regulator. (Values stayed in a normal limit).

JimKshortstep4x4 · 09-23-2003, 12:35 PM

Webhendrix,

Did you check the two 4 amp fuses on either side of the radiator?

I have not seen an amp meter burn up in one of these trucks, although I guess it could be possible. The fuses do very well at protecting the gauge.

Jim

**smitty62** · 09-23-2003, 12:40 PM

I want to emphasize to you fellows, JimK is right-90% of the time the amp meter problems are due to a blown fuse just where Jim says they are-either side of the radiator.

A.P. · 09-23-2003, 01:22 PM

I replaced my amp meter with a volt meter and it works great. I got the volt meter from Pep Boys.

**CPNE** · 09-23-2003, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BadAssChevy502
Is there also a gauge for the blank one on the right hand side of the steering wheel? Or is this a special option.

This gauge pod is for either an air pressure gauge or a vacuum gauge, neither of which were installed on light duty trucks. This makes sense when you factor in that the same bezel and cluster configuration was used on HD trucks 1.5 ton and greater. These trucks could be outfitted with either gauge depending upon usage.

Contrary to popular myth, there was never a clock uption offered. You can retrofit some early GM clocks and make it look "factory". The stuff legends are made from.

*rickspickuppart* · 09-23-2003, 02:28 PM

here is our cluster, (like said before it's not factory) we got the clock out of some GM car and made it fit.

[IMG]http://www.****************.com/boardpics/clock1.jpg[/IMG]

**smitty62** · 09-23-2003, 02:31 PM

Rick;
Do you remember what car it came from? I'd like to have one!

*rickspickuppart* · 09-23-2003, 02:35 PM

it's been a few years we think it was some kind of early 70's buick

**smitty62** · 09-23-2003, 03:07 PM

OK--thanks

**MJN** · 09-23-2003, 04:36 PM

My amp gauge never used to move, then I changed one of those fueses in the harness and it moved for a while, then it just quit, the fuses looked good and never had a problem with it. I am having problems now though, bad connections somewhere. Gauge hasn't moved for a while now though. oh well

palallin · 09-23-2003, 04:53 PM

My old printed circuit board had some broken leads; that was part of my problem. I will have to wait till I get the old guy back together to know whether I've cured all the problems.

Edmond · 09-24-2003, 02:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by smitty62
Rick;
Do you remember what car it came from? I'd like to have one!

You can also use one from a second generation Camaro

Cya,
Edmond

Hooter · 09-24-2003, 01:02 PM

since my truck has such a big grind on the cam, when the truck is idling the ammeter guage tends to twich quite a bit, so I know mine is working.

BadAssChevy502 · 09-25-2003, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by CPNE

This gauge pod is for either an air pressure gauge or a vacuum gauge, neither of which were installed on light duty trucks. This makes sense when you factor in that the same bezel and cluster configuration was used on HD trucks 1.5 ton and greater. These trucks could be outfitted with either gauge depending upon usage.

Contrary to popular myth, there was never a clock uption offered. You can retrofit some early GM clocks and make it look "factory". The stuff legends are made from.

Hey thanks for the info

09-22-2003, 06:44 PM	#1
xenocide Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 8	Battery Gauge This is the most my battery/amp gauge ever shows; is this normal? This is at idle and it is exactly the same at cruising. I haven't had any problems since I replaced my alternator/voltage regulator 6 months ago or so, but I just wanted to know what everyone else was seeing on their vehicles - if it was similar etc. I'm also considering adding some extra autometer guages for oil temp, transmission temp, and maybe another. - any suggestions to what other gauges to add? I just like to have a good idea of how things are doing. On my other cars I have a palm pilot with a datalogger program connected to the diagnostic port to view all my timing, knock, temps etc. so I guess I want to be more informed when I'm driving the beast. Thanks in advance! __________________ '72 Chevy Cheyenne Super (402 BB / 3/4 Ton / Hedman Hedders / Air Gap Intake / Street Avenger Carb) '90 Talon TSi (Turbo / All Wheel Drive / Modded) '93 Dodge Stealth RT/TT (320 HP / All Wheel Drive and Steering / Wife's car)

09-22-2003, 06:48 PM	#2
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,474	Mine will jump to the 2nd line above the half way mark.After about 2seconds it goes where yours is. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

09-22-2003, 06:59 PM	#4
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,608	Is that guage supposed to work??? None of my truck's ever had that guage work.. __________________ GO BIG GREEN GO DUCKS MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P..

09-22-2003, 07:00 PM	#5
xenocide Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 8	Cool, then it must be normal. It's just one less thing I have to worry about then. __________________ '72 Chevy Cheyenne Super (402 BB / 3/4 Ton / Hedman Hedders / Air Gap Intake / Street Avenger Carb) '90 Talon TSi (Turbo / All Wheel Drive / Modded) '93 Dodge Stealth RT/TT (320 HP / All Wheel Drive and Steering / Wife's car)

09-23-2003, 01:59 AM	#9
70short Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Boise ID Posts: 609	The amp meter measures the load (accessory draw)across the battery or A shunt. The volt meter is measuring voltage to ground. They look similar in the way they are physically hooked up, But one measures volt the other amps. I hope this made sence. __________________ "72" Red CORVETTE 4-speed 350 "70" Chevy Short Bed early stages of resto. Edel 600 cfm carb Weiand Stealth Intake HEI shorty Headers 4/2 Drop 295 50R 15 TOYO on 10 inch wide corvette rally rims at all 4 corners. "CHEVY RULES"

09-22-2003, 06:53 PM	#3
OldSkool71 C/10 CLUB MEMBER Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Lakewood, CA Posts: 993	that is where mine is at all the time as well. Only barely moves when some other electrical item is turned on. Haven't had any problems in that area. (wood)knock-knock.. __________________ -Ron-

09-22-2003, 07:57 PM	#6
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	The amp meters work somewhat. They are an indicator more than they are a gauge. I would check the two fuses to make sure and check the amp output of your alternator. If the battery and charging is good the amp meters will go back to neutral fairly quickly. Also, check for discharge when you pull the lights on without the engine working. It should discharge about 1/2 way. Jim

09-23-2003, 12:13 AM	#8
Orion 762 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mississippi Posts: 36	If I looked at the schematics right, it looks more like it's setup to read voltage instead of "amps". If it's a voltmeter, then it's just "indicating" the battery voltage. A true "ampmeter" will show the "draw" of charging or discharging current from the battery. Any ideas on whether I'm right on this?? Orion 762

09-23-2003, 02:33 AM	#10
BadAssChevy502 Yeh It's Fast Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Zwijndrecht ,The Netherlands ,Europe Posts: 143	Bad gauge Hi, I'm working on my second truck now and neither one ever worked I have never found out why it didn’t. I even took one out and placed it in a wire setup where it should work and it still didn't so I gave up on it. If someone ever figures this out let me know it’s nice when all the gauges works Is there also a gauge for the blank one on the right hand side of the steering wheel? Or is this a special option. (I'm sorry if the spelling isn't correct,i'm trying the best I can ) 1972 Chevy Pickup longbed 502ci Th400 "IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T TRY TO FIX IT"

09-23-2003, 05:43 AM	#11
'68OrangeSunshine Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, AZ USA Posts: 7,358	I think options for the phantom (#3) position gauge were clock or vacuum (manifold pressure). Both pretty rare. __________________ Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 09-23-2003 at 05:45 AM.

09-23-2003, 08:31 AM	#12
webhendrix Registered User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: kentucky Posts: 6	I had replaced my regulator and then my alternator. My gauge worked and would go past that mark as it was over charging. (I had probable damaged it trying to figgure out my charging problems. It was the alternator.) I replaced the regulator again and now it stays where yours is. The over charging problem was fixed with the (2cd) new regulator. (Values stayed in a normal limit).

09-23-2003, 12:35 PM	#13
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	Webhendrix, Did you check the two 4 amp fuses on either side of the radiator? I have not seen an amp meter burn up in one of these trucks, although I guess it could be possible. The fuses do very well at protecting the gauge. Jim

09-23-2003, 12:40 PM	#14
smitty62 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: North Carolina Posts: 1,234	I want to emphasize to you fellows, JimK is right-90% of the time the amp meter problems are due to a blown fuse just where Jim says they are-either side of the radiator. __________________ Stepsides look like real trucks! Smitty

09-23-2003, 01:22 PM	#15
A.P. Black 72 Chevy Join Date: May 2002 Location: Los Angeles, California Posts: 662	I replaced my amp meter with a volt meter and it works great. I got the volt meter from Pep Boys. __________________ 72 Chevy, SWB, 350engine, TH400

09-23-2003, 02:28 PM	#17
rickspickuppart Account Suspended Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 1,284	clock dash here is our cluster, (like said before it's not factory) we got the clock out of some GM car and made it fit. [IMG]http://www.****************.com/boardpics/clock1.jpg[/IMG]



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

09-23-2003, 02:31 PM	#18
smitty62 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: North Carolina Posts: 1,234	Rick; Do you remember what car it came from? I'd like to have one! __________________ Stepsides look like real trucks! Smitty

09-23-2003, 02:35 PM	#19
rickspickuppart Account Suspended Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 1,284	it's been a few years we think it was some kind of early 70's buick

09-23-2003, 03:07 PM	#20
smitty62 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: North Carolina Posts: 1,234	OK--thanks __________________ Stepsides look like real trucks! Smitty

09-23-2003, 04:36 PM	#21
MJN Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Maquoketa, Ia/ Orr, Mn Posts: 3,032	My amp gauge never used to move, then I changed one of those fueses in the harness and it moved for a while, then it just quit, the fuses looked good and never had a problem with it. I am having problems now though, bad connections somewhere. Gauge hasn't moved for a while now though. oh well __________________ '51 South Bend Model "9A" '56 Chevy 3600 NAPCO '74 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20-restored on 37's '72 GMC Sierra Custom K2500- in progress '08 GMC Envoy Denali '12 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali '17 GMC Yukon XL VCCA member #58596 http://www.nohrco.com

09-23-2003, 04:53 PM	#22
palallin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: St. James, MO Posts: 1,239	My old printed circuit board had some broken leads; that was part of my problem. I will have to wait till I get the old guy back together to know whether I've cured all the problems. __________________ '69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt.

09-24-2003, 01:02 PM	#24
Hooter My other Love Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Castlegar B.C. Canada Posts: 4,085	since my truck has such a big grind on the cam, when the truck is idling the ammeter guage tends to twich quite a bit, so I know mine is working. __________________ Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Eh!) Hooter_5@hotmail.com First generation Monte Carlo club pictures of my life

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.