Suburban Rear Bumper

[kchampagne]

Hello all,

I recently bought a 65 GMC Suburban 4x4. I am putting together a plan/budget for my build, especially all of the metal parts needed. I would like to order most of body metal and bumpers at one time to save on shipping. My suburban currently has homemade front and rear bumpers that I would like to replace with originals. The OEM front bumper I believe is the same as the 60-66 Chevy/GMC trucks. However, the rear suburban bumper doesn't seem to be available in a chrome reproduction. I believe I can use the reproduction rear bumper from 60-66 trucks on my suburban? Would the stepside or fleetside bumper work best? As a second option, it seems that the reproduction front bumper is very similar to the rear suburban bumper with the exception of the bolt holes? Has anyone tried to modify the brackets to retrofit a reproduction front bumper on the rear of a suburban? Any suggestions is much appreciated! Ken

[chevy_mike]

Yep, sucks they don't repop them. The guy I bought mine from took them to a chrome shop and got a quote. Too much so he just left them there, thinking he would buy repop ones. Dumb A$$.

If you're not trying to have it original, your idea will work. Front bumper is very similar but the real ones have two "raised dimples" which a front one would not have. They are not used for anything.

[VictoriaHardware]

I found an excellent painted front bumper and modified it to go on the rear of my '66 Sub. The stamping itself from '64-'66 C10-30 pickup fronts are the same for '64-'66 Suburban & Panel rears. The holes are the only difference.

The 1st picture shows the bare steel bumper mounted on the rear after drilling 4 new holes for the frame rail bolts,outboard of the original holes. After drilling you have to file out 4 corners for the carriage bolt heads. The 2nd shows it after the 4 old holes plus the 2 license plate holes had been welded up and painted white. The hardest part is to grind down the weld in the top holes without wrecking the indented surrounding area to make it appear correct for a Suburban/Panel only rear bumper.

You end up with a quality original part whose appearance can fool any expert. You can then paint or chrome it. The repros are thinner and never fit right. The quality of the chrome is not top notch either. If you try to fabricate brackets to match the bumper you will be doing a LOT more work and it will be obviously non original.

[kchampagne]

Fantastic! That is exactly the info I was looking for!! Thank you, Ken

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by VictoriaHardware

You end up with a quality original part whose appearance can fool any expert. You can then paint or chrome it.

Well... I wouldn't say "fool any expert", maybe fool most people. Regardless of the hole spacing, there is two very specific dimples on an original rear bumper that would not be on a modified front. From that I can tell they do absolutely nothing but it would allow an expert to know the difference.

Sorry I couldn't find a clear pic and I don't have any of my rear bumper (which is currently in the back of the panel) but this one, if you look to the right of the inside set of mounting bolts, you will see a dimple part in the bumper.

[VictoriaHardware]

The stamping itself is the same from front to rear. That includes the stamped dimples. The holes are the only difference between them. The upper inboard holes, the ones at the dimples, are the ones that get welded-in.

[kchampagne]

Originally Posted by VictoriaHardware

The stamping itself is the same from front to rear. That includes the stamped dimples. The holes are the only difference between them. The upper inboard holes, the ones at the dimples, are the ones that get welded-in.

Thanks all! So I plan to get a front bumper and modify it to use on the rear. Quick clarification. I don't have the original rear bumper brackets, so I need to order replacements. LMC Truck has different rear brackets for the 64-66 stepsides and fleetsides. I am not sure what the difference is. Does anyone know which ones will work on the Burb? Thank you!

[64k10burb]

I would guess that they are different since the bumpers are different. I have not pulled my hitch and off bumper yet and have not noticed what it looks like. I will be under mine tomorrow and will snap a couple pics.

[jonzcustomshop]

the inboard part of the bumper bolts directly to the frame, no brackets.

I am not sure if the rear corner brackets interchange with the front... if nobody gives a definite answer I can get a measurement off of mine is a couple of days.

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Well... I wouldn't say "fool any expert", maybe fool most people. Regardless of the hole spacing, there is two very specific dimples on an original rear bumper that would not be on a modified front. From that I can tell they do absolutely nothing but it would allow an expert to know the difference.

the "dimples" that are stamped into the suburban rear bumper, are there because the bumper stamping is the same as the front.
the dimples on the front bumper are where the upper bolts go through.

Originally Posted by VictoriaHardware

The stamping itself is the same from front to rear. That includes the stamped dimples. The holes are the only difference between them. The upper inboard holes, the ones at the dimples, are the ones that get welded-in.

correct!

I am surprised that the aftermarket bumper people haven't caught on to this....
maybe their machine stamps the dimple and hole at the same time?

if not it seems like it would be an easy way for them to use their front bumper stamping, with different holes, marketed for the rear of a sub...

[kchampagne]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

the "dimples" that are stamped into the suburban rear bumper, are there because the bumper stamping is the same as the front.
the dimples on the front bumper are where the upper bolts go through.



correct!

I am surprised that the aftermarket bumper people haven't caught on to this....
maybe their machine stamps the dimple and hole at the same time?

if not it seems like it would be an easy way for them to use their front bumper stamping, with different holes, marketed for the rear of a sub...

Yeah, that would seem logical! Maybe the burb market is too small for the manufacturers to invest in the rear bumper......

[64k10burb]

I looked at my bumper today, it is also missing the outside supports.
It's bolted to the frame in the center and only has the bolts in the outside holes....I guess I would have noticed that when I drop it preparing for actual body work.

[VictoriaHardware]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

I am not sure if the rear corner brackets interchange with the front...

Here is a pic of the right REAR bracket. A crude measurement end-to-end shows 19 1/2" . Third pic is the right FRONT bumper bracket. They look similar, but the same measurement shows 22". It makes sense that they are different since the frame rails are wider at the rear. I don't have any Fleet or Step side rear brackets to compare, so there is still the question of what other brackets may work.

The 4th and 5th pic show the rear bumper attaching directly to the frame rail- no adapter brackets like the pickups. You can also see the back side of the dimple that was welded up.

[VictoriaHardware]

One other unique feature of the Suburban/Panel rear bumper is this cutout in the center along the bottom edge. It apparently was done to gain clearance for the spare tire. It's about 3/4" high by 10" wide. This was from a '66. I assume '60 - '66 were alike.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by VictoriaHardware

One other unique feature of the Suburban/Panel rear bumper is this cutout in the center along the bottom edge. It apparently was done to gain clearance for the spare tire. It's about 3/4" high by 10" wide. This was from a '66. I assume '60 - '66 were alike.

I would say that someone did that
ron

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by VictoriaHardware

One other unique feature of the Suburban/Panel rear bumper is this cutout in the center along the bottom edge. It apparently was done to gain clearance for the spare tire. It's about 3/4" high by 10" wide. This was from a '66. I assume '60 - '66 were alike.

pretty sure both of my bumpers (64&65) have that...


"A crude measurement end-to-end shows 19 1/2" . Third pic is the right FRONT bumper bracket. They look similar, but the same measurement shows 22".

wonder if you could just use a front corner bracket, and cut 2 1/2 out and it would work?

[aerotruk63]

You would have to change sides with the bracket Jonz as well. Passenger side front to drivers side rear in order to maintain the angle on the bumper. I like the idea.

[kchampagne]

Thanks all! This is fantastic information. I need to start a build thread on here. If anyone is interested, I have a build thread on the 6066 GMC site. http://6066gmcclub.com/showthread.php?t=49268.

[66 Burban]

Originally Posted by VictoriaHardware

One other unique feature of the Suburban/Panel rear bumper is this cutout in the center along the bottom edge. It apparently was done to gain clearance for the spare tire. It's about 3/4" high by 10" wide. This was from a '66. I assume '60 - '66 were alike.

I have 8 Suburban rear bumpers (63-66) and none have this cutout --- must have been done for a trailer hitch of some sort.

[aerotruk63]

Took a look inside the 58-72 Light Truck Canadian, as well as the 46-63 Master U.S. parts book.
There is a single part number for the rear bumper face 60-62 painted and another for chrome, same situation for 63-66. The book indicates same rear bumper face for 10 and 30 series.
I thought maybe there was a cutout for a larger diameter spare tire that ended up on the 10 or 30 series.
Does not look like GM offered any cutout option. They would have made a note indicating to use the stock bumper but to modify it for rare applications. You read these notes in other part listings.

[jonzcustomshop]

looked at my bumpers today: both the 64 and 65 have that "spare tire" notch cut out of them exactly the same as the pic Victoria hardware supplied.

[aerotruk63]

Are the cutouts symmetrical and stamped out?
What type of tool would have made the openings?

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

Are the cutouts symmetrical and stamped out?
What type of tool would have made the openings?

I will get some pics next time I am out at the trucks.

[64k10burb]

Interesting.....My burban bumper does not have the notch either.

[VictoriaHardware]

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

Are the cutouts symmetrical and stamped out?
What type of tool would have made the openings?

Yes it is centered and symmetric. It was not cut with a saw or grinder. It was sheared off from the outside toward the inside. There is a consistent "burr" all along the inside edge that happens with a shear, particularly with a dull one. I can't imagine anyone other than the factory going to the trouble to make a stamping tool to do that. By factory I mean either the bumper manufacturer or the vehicle assembly plant.

Why some have it and others don't is the question. I am confident it is the original bumper to my truck. My truck is a late '66 Fremont-built 2WD with 15" wheels.