Need help removing push button start

[MikeB69C10]

I have a 69 C10 and the original owner installed a push button ignition. I'd like to remove it. I still need to have the key in the ignition, but to start I push this button.

The start button has two wires, a red and a black. The red is attached to the fuse box (15A on the left of the photo) and is split to another red wire that goes nowhere.


The black wire that is the ground (?) for the push button is connected to two purple wires.

The IGN on the fuse box (2nd photo, right side) has a black wire and it has been cut and is taped off (it was touching metal before I taped it off, but I do not believe it was shorting anything out, not sure).

Can anyone give me a few pointers as to what I need to do to wire up the ignition switch and what I can pull out and get rid of. Thank you in advance.

-Mike

P.S. I've searched and searched and all I can find is how to install a push button starter. The previous posts have helped, but I need a little more help.

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by MikeB69C10

The start button has two wires, a red and a black. The red is attached to the fuse box (15A on the left of the photo) and is split to another red wire that goes nowhere.

Okay, that's feeding power to the push button. The red wire that goes nowhere looks like it might be a cigarette lighter feed (if it's the one you're holding in the pic).

Originally Posted by MikeB69C10

The black wire that is the ground (?) for the push button is connected to two purple wires.

That black wire is the output of the push button switch (not a ground). When you push the button, it applies power to the black wire. Which in turn feeds it to the stock purple wires, one of which leads to the starter solenoid "S" terminal which engages the starter.

Normally, the ignition switch should be feeding power to the purple wire to engage the starter when it's turned to the "start" position. So the push button may have been installed as a band aid fix for a bad ignition switch. Or possibly a bad neutral safety switch (if it's an automatic trans).

So to go back to stock, start by using a test light or voltmeter to see if you have power on the purple wire at the back of the ignition switch when the key is turned to the "start" position. If not, you likely need a new ignition switch.

Then you can remove the push button switch by disconnecting it's red wire from the fuse box and disconnecting it's black wire from the purple wires. Make sure that doesn't leave a break in the purple wire though. The purple wire needs to run from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid "S" terminal. It will pass through the firewall bulkhead connector on the way. And for an automatic trans, it will also pass through a neutral safety switch at the base of the steering column.

[MikeB69C10]

Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy

Okay, that's feeding power to the push button. The red wire that goes nowhere looks like it might be a cigarette lighter feed (if it's the one you're holding in the pic).



That black wire is the output of the push button switch (not a ground). When you push the button, it applies power to the black wire. Which in turn feeds it to the stock purple wires, one of which leads to the starter solenoid "S" terminal which engages the starter.

Normally, the ignition switch should be feeding power to the purple wire to engage the starter when it's turned to the "start" position. So the push button may have been installed as a band aid fix for a bad ignition switch. Or possibly a bad neutral safety switch (if it's an automatic trans).

So to go back to stock, start by using a test light or voltmeter to see if you have power on the purple wire at the back of the ignition switch when the key is turned to the "start" position. If not, you likely need a new ignition switch.

Then you can remove the push button switch by disconnecting it's red wire from the fuse box and disconnecting it's black wire from the purple wires. Make sure that doesn't leave a break in the purple wire though. The purple wire needs to run from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid "S" terminal. It will pass through the firewall bulkhead connector on the way. And for an automatic trans, it will also pass through a neutral safety switch at the base of the steering column.

Ray,

Thank you. I have purchased a new ignition switch already as I suspected that the push button might not be for theft and might be a faulty switch (?). I do have power when I turn the key to the start position. If I understand, I need to cut the black wire from the two purple wires (they are actually one wire with a western splice) and then pull out the red wires from the 15A (as that is just provinding extra power and maybe powering the cig lighter. Hook it all back to the new ignition switch. I do have an automatic, anything else.

Thanks again!!!

[MikeB69C10]

One last (?) question.

This wire has been cut and it not attached to anything. What would normally go here?

[ray_mcavoy]

Originally Posted by MikeB69C10

Ray,

Thank you. I have purchased a new ignition switch already as I suspected that the push button might not be for theft and might be a faulty switch (?). I do have power when I turn the key to the start position. ..... I do have an automatic.

You're welcome!

Since you have an automatic, and the purple wire has power at the back if the ignition switch in the "start" position, it sounds like the push button may be covering up for a bad neutral safety switch (instead of a bad ignition switch).

If that's the case, the black wire from the push button must be spliced into the purple wire "down stream" of the neutral safety switch. So before you remove the push button, remove the tape from that splice and check for power at that point with the key in the "start" position (without pushing the push button of course). If you don't have power there, it's likely a bad (or mis-adjusted) neutral safety switch.

Originally Posted by MikeB69C10

If I understand, I need to cut the black wire from the two purple wires (they are actually one wire with a western splice) and then pull out the red wires from the 15A (as that is just provinding extra power and maybe powering the cig lighter. Hook it all back to the new ignition switch.

Yes, that is correct.

And with the way it's wired now, the push button is basically in parallel with the factory starting circuit. So once you repair the issue that the push button is "covering up", you should be able to start the truck either way (by turning the key to "start", or by using the push button).

Originally Posted by MikeB69C10

One last (?) question.

This wire has been cut and it not attached to anything. What would normally go here?

That looks to have been a feed wire that was added for some sort of aftermarket accessory. Since the other end is cut and not attached to anything, you can simply unplug and discard that wire.

[MikeB69C10]

Thanks Ray. It's fixed and we can put this thread to rest. I really appreciate it!

[ray_mcavoy]

You're welcome!

I'm glad to hear the "push-button-ectomy" was a success!