Adding Cruise Control question

[RaceProMarketing]

Does anyone know how difficult it is (and costly) to add cruise control to an '83 that didn't come with cruise? It has every other option, air, all power, etc. but not cruise.

I don't want an aftermarket deal; would like to keep it looking factory. Does the entire column have to be changed out?

I have terrible neuropothy in my feet, along with a bad arch on my right foot, which makes it painful to drive long distances without cruise.

But I love to drive my truck and would like to add cruise if it's not a crazy amount of work. Any help appreciated.

[trixter99]

There is a way to use the cruise control from an early nineties truck that works very well. I saw one being used in a 66 Chevy truck a long time ago. I think it had an electric/ mechanical speedo drive and the rest was just a matter of wiring it and mounting the cruise servo. It seems to me he was using a van column. The whole truck was built from pick a part lots.

[Keith Seymore]

I installed cruise on my '87 back when it was new.

I used a GM Dealer over the counter installation kit. I'm sorry but I don't recall the part number or any (helpful) details like that. The column was not affected (you do have to change out the turn signal stalk itself).


K

[75C10]

RPM,
I added factory cruise to my 75 using the kit that was available from GM. It had all the pieces. It worked ok but not like the current cruise controls. I am currently building an 86 and want to add cruise to it. I have gathered all the pieces (so I think) from donors (PYP) and hope to install it and have it work. Won't know till later this year. Hoping this works out ok.
Darwin

[tucsonjwt]

I have an 83 with factory cruise and it is not reliable - works when it wants to.
The factory set up in an 83 has a left side cruise control on the turn signal stalk, servo with link to throttle, a circuit board in a red plastic box under the dash, and extra vacuum reservoir on the firewall, plus wiring. The circuit board and CC turn stalk are no longer available. So, I would go with electronic aftermarket cruise and forget the factory set up. You can remove the aftermarket components if you want to in the future. The 83 has a one year only CC stalk and I believe one year only circuit board. Vacuum controlled CC is really outdated technology and not worth trying to install it, IMHO.

[Firebirdjones]

My 79 has it. The old vacuum operated setup mounted on the driver inner fender. Works fine. About 20 years ago I had the unit rebuilt at GM, they had a service for that. It was sometimes hunting for speed. The little magnet/brushes deal inside gets worn I suppose. It's worked flawless since.

Would be a pain to add this type of system anyway, there's a lot of parts and pieces to it.

[CSHADES]

I guess I am wondering why you are opposed to a new aftermarket cruise? The new ones work great and the handle looks close to factory. They are simple and pretty much trouble free. You can get one from any of the street rod parts places. They are all made by rostra as far as I know.

[hatzie]

The 1988 and later Electro Motor cruise control can be used on any vehicle. It's fairly easy to retrofit. This module has been used to add cruise control to a lot of different vehicles.
*** EDIT*** Mine is from a late 80's T400 chassis truck. You should be safe using one from a TBI vehicle with 2K square wave VSS through at least 1992. From 93 on the expected VSS signal probably will be different.

You'll need the Electro Motor cruise box with cable, VSS, Turn signal stalk, and brake/clutch switch(s).
If you can liberate the entire cruise sub-harness it'll have the mating connectors for the Engine bay module and the switches in the cab.
The Metripack 150 connector on the cruise box...

• A Cruise Power ON Signal From Stalk B
• B SET/COAST from Stalk D
• C RESUME/ACCEL From Stalk C
• D Stalk B Power through Brake/Clutch switches (suspend cruise) Remove power to suspend. This needs to be cycled before cruise can be engaged.
• E Ground
• F Ignition power
• G Optional Brake Lamp Power (redundant suspend cruise) Apply power to suspend **EDIT** Some modules, but not all, need this to cycle before they will allow cruise to be engaged. Mine did not but YMMV. Easier to just hook it up.
• H From PCM Cruise suspend Do not populate this position
• J To PCM Cruise engaged Do not populate this position
• K VSSB Cruise square wave signal

The GM Electro Motor Cruise Service Training Textbook is on the 73-91 manual page linked in my signature.

[RaceProMarketing]

Originally Posted by CSHADES

I guess I am wondering why you are opposed to a new aftermarket cruise? The new ones work great and the handle looks close to factory. They are simple and pretty much trouble free. You can get one from any of the street rod parts places. They are all made by rostra as far as I know.

I'm not ... just didn't want it to look too gaudy. Trust me, my truck is far from factory anyway, so if it doesn't look too "out of place" and works well (and is easier), then I'm all for it.

Thanks for everyone's input. I'm just glad to know there are plenty of options.

-RH-

[CSHADES]

the servo unit actually looks similar to the electro motor one that hatzie posted above. The unit has a long enough cable on it that it can be tucked away so it doesn't stand out. Like I said before the control handle is a direct replacement for the turn signal lever in truck now.

[hatzie]

The Rostra and Dakota Digital units can use Factory Cruise Control switches and Factory VSS signals.
The aftermarket servo unit has DIP Switches to select the VSS signal type and frequency as well as the stalk control switch type (Normally Open or Normally Closed).

The downside to the aftermarket units is the cost, right around $300, with not much ease of installation gain. The 90's GM cruise Servo Box can be purchased as cheap as $35 with a cable on evilbay or your local pick-n-pull.
With new or used servo you'll be fabbing a throttle bracket and fabbing/installing a sub-harness to mate with your servo module choice. The pedal & stalk switches and VSS are not included in the $300 price.

The cleanest inside the cab installation for either system is to source GM cruise control pedal switch(s) with brackets and connector shells, GM optical VSSB and connectors, and GM type cruise stalk.

Pedal switches and brackets are self explanatory. Liberate em from a Cruise III truck. The Packard 56 mating connectors are still available.

Dakota Digital sells cruise control turn signal stalks that look factory. For your 83 with dimmer still on the floor and wipers still on the dash... you can replace the turn stalk with the HND-3 turn signal stalk I used on my 76. To the unwashed masses it will look factory. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-hnd-3 It's worth noting that the HND-3 I purchased came with a pretty cheesy Mini Mate-N-Lock connector and 22ga wires. I used a 4 position Deutsch DTM connector pair carefully wire tied for strain relief. You could solder and heat shrink 4 6" sections of 18awg wires to the tiny 22-24ga wires and use whatever connector floats your boat.

I used a Mini ISO relay controlled by the stalk switch to turn on the cruise control. I figured the switch would last longer if the full servo module "on" current wasn't running through it but it's probably not necessary.

The stock Cruise III GM optical VSSB on the instrument cluster starting in 81, 82 or 83 will output a 2,000 pulse per mile square wave. According to this thread they all had provision for the optical sensor... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...22&postcount=5 The 1984 Cruise III textbook explains the pinout of the optical VSSB module. The Fiero guys seem to think the later Green modules had more and better signal conditioning. You'll need to liberate the now obsolete GM Delphi 12034117 & 12015686 card edge connectors from a salvage vehicle. The optical VSSB units aren't that unusual on the 80's GM trucks and cars.
EDIT*** I've dug into these connectors. I believe the terminals are Delphi 12040502 Edge Board Terminals but I'm not positive on my identification. I'd recommend getting about 6-8" of wire along with the terminals on these obsolete Optical VSSB card edge connectors.

[trixter99]

This is the route I am going to go if I do this. The reason my guy used the van column was the 66 truck doesn't have the prndl in dictation on the dash but the van column has it just below the wheel.

[75C10]

Hatzie,
Well thank you for the info. I picked up an Electro Motor controller (from a 95) from PYP this morning for an ungodly sum of $22 (thats $8 US :-)). I have yet to decide if I will use it (I also have everything stock for my 86) but I am keen to learn more.
Darwin

[hatzie]

The Cruise Control GM Service Training Group Textbooks for the three major iterations of semi-standalone cruise controls are in the 73-91 manuals link. They're fairly short textbooks but there's a lot of information in them.
70's Cruisemaster speedometer cable driven vacuum mechanical units that are hard to find decent replacements for.
80's Vacuum Electronic Cruise III
90's Electro-Motor motorized servo cruise control units that are pretty much the same animal as Dakota Digital and Rostra sell.

You can liberate the small sub-harness attached to the cruise control module, pedal switches, column switch, and ignition power. AFAIK that 10 position Metripack 150 plug is an odd duck not a standard Metripack 150... The actual terminals are regular Metripack parts but the shell is specific to that cruise control module.
You'll want to find a 1984-1991 truck with the cruise control pedal switches for the switches and brackets. You may be able to use the G-Body or B-Body pedal switches. 83-86 models use common Packard 56 connector shells and terminals that are still available not sure about later rigs.

• Lisle makes some semi universal terminal extractor discs but they are easy to break and IMHO are almost a medieval self torture device to use. https://www.google.com/search?q=Lisle+57750&tbm=shop
• If you want a set of easy to use more universal extractor tools that allow your palms to stay free of extra holes and safely store in a small space without getting broken get one or both of the SIR Tools Swiss Army Knife terminal extractors. They will remove every terminal you are likely to encounter. The 9025 is the most useful on GM vehicles and it's on sale right now (04/16/2016) for less than the Lisle tools. 9024 has the pick tool for the Metripack connector family and a pretty sweet harness tape ripping tool that cuts harness tape without slicing up the wire jackets underneath.
• SIR Tools 9024 6 piece tool
• SIR Tools 9025 12 piece tool.
  --SIR Tools Swiss Army Knife terminal extractor sets datasheet

An inexpensive five cavity "universal" plier crimp tool like the one linked on the next line will do an OK job of crimping Packard 56, Weatherpack, and Metripack 150 & 280 terminals. If you're crimping a bunch of terminals stepping up the next level of tooling is probably advisable.
http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Packard-Weatherpack-C...
I prefer the, slightly more coin but still inexpensive, ratcheting five cavity "universal" tools because I can be positive the crimps are done. They are more coin but they are real Delphi crimp tools and can likely be sold for 2/3 or more of new as long as you take care of them. The only downsides to these is the lack of terminal holders that keep the terminal from rotating in the crimp cavities and it does not crimp the strain relief/cavity seal with the wire in one operation. If you slightly pinch the crimp ears so they are not spread as wide apart the terminal will not twist and you'll get a nice crimp on the wire and on the jacket or seal every time. The family specific tools cost around $400 each and they are limited to one connector family. These more universal tools are around $90.

• 12085270 Five cavity ratcheting sealed connector crimp tool is the most used tool in my electrical box. It does 16awg - 20awg Metripack 150 & 280, Weatherpack, and Packard 56 wire and Metripack and Weatherpack seals.
• 12085271 Five cavity ratcheting unsealed connector crimp tool does wire crimps 12awg & 14awg Packard 59, Pack-Con, Metripack 480 & 630 wires (12085270 is used on the seals), and Packard 56 double stack terminals. Less useful than the 12085270 tool if you are not assembling higher amp connectors.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by trixter99

This is the route I am going to go if I do this. The reason my guy used the van column was the 66 truck doesn't have the prndl in dictation on the dash but the van column has it just below the wheel.

The earlier G series Vans had the ignition key in the dash too just like your 66.

[TwoFiftyShifter]

Hmm. Will that work with a stick? SM465

[hatzie]

Cruise control is not oogy boogie black magic. Generally it's pretty easy. Especially using these all-in-one servo motor modules.
Manual is not that different from automagic. You need two pedal switches with contacts open when the pedal is pressed... the clutch override switch is wired in series with the brake override switch so either pedal will shut down cruise.

Wiring Diagram from the Electro Motor Cruise textbook.


25007463 Optical VSSB Pinout with the obsolete Delphi connector part numbers from the Cruise III textbook.

[75C10]

Hatzie,
Could you help explain what I am experiencing
My wire connector on the cruise unit looks to be the same as the photo you posted (wire colors and position).

But when compared to the wiring diagram
A and B are good - wiring diagram and wire colors on my connector
C - diagram calls this dk green and I have gray with black stripe
D - Diagram calls for brown wire and I have purple
E- agrees
F- diagram calls for pink and I have dk brown
G- not on diagram and I have white
H-blank
J- not on diagram - I have lt blue wire with black stripe
K - digram has brn white stripe - I have green with white stripe
This came for a 1995 Chevy
Suggestions?
Thanks Darwin

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by 75C10

Hatzie,
Could you help explain what I am experiencing
My wire connector on the cruise unit looks to be the same as the photo you posted (wire colors and position).

But when compared to the wiring diagram
A and B are good - wiring diagram and wire colors on my connector
C - diagram calls this dk green and I have gray with black stripe
D - Diagram calls for brown wire and I have purple
E- agrees
F- diagram calls for pink and I have dk brown
G- not on diagram and I have white
H-blank
J- not on diagram - I have lt blue wire with black stripe
K - digram has brn white stripe - I have green with white stripe
This came for a 1995 Chevy
Suggestions?
Thanks Darwin

Ignore the wire colors in the textbook or any other diagram you'll find. The terminal position function is the thing you need to worry about.
The terminal position functions, by letter, in the textbook diagram are the same as the 1995 diagram below even tho the wire colors differ.
Terminal C is still from the stalk Resume/Accelerate switch no matter what color wire is in C.
Terminal K is still the VSSB Cruise 2K Squarewave signal no matter what color wire is in K.
Terminal F is still Ignition power... and on it goes...

Hook up A, B, C, D, E, F, G, & K. You will not be using the PCM connection on terminal J or the PCM servo inhibit wire on Terminal H. Cut the wires on these positions off close to the servo module connector and cover the ends with Adhesive lined heatshrink or remove the terminals completely and insert 15324928 Metripack cavity plugs in the empty holes.

A wire on Terminal G could be teed into the wire between the brake lamp switch and the steering column. **EDIT** Some modules, but not all, need this to cycle before they will allow cruise to be engaged. Mine did not but YMMV. Easier to just hook it up.

Since your sub-harness came from an automatic transmission vehicle with a TCC Stoplamp Switch the pedal switch wiring is slightly different than what you need. Terminal D has a Purple wire instead of a Brown/White wire found on the manual transmission trucks and it was connected through the TCC Stoplamp switch to the fuse panel. Wire color is irrelevant. You can print the below diagram out and mark it up in red pen or pencil with the colors in your sub-harness if that helps you keep track.

Removing Ignition power from the Cruise Release Terminal D by pushing in the properly wired clutch or brake pedal will temporarily release cruise. Unlike setting the stalk switch to Off this keeps the last speed setpoint in memory so you can resume by selecting Resume-Accel. The Terminal A Gray wire is a handy source of ignition power to keep the sub-harness clean and neat.

To setup the "Cruise Release" switch circuit...

• Your sub-harness should have White and Purple wires on the Brake switch connector.
• Add a wire teed into the wire on Terminal A of the Cruise module. I would match the wire color to the existing Terminal A wire.
• The White terminal G wire needs to tee into the stop lamp wire between the brake pedal switch and the column.
• The Cruise Release circuit should run in series from the wire you just teed or wyed into cruise module Terminal A, through the brake and clutch pedal and cruise control cutout switches, to the Purple wire on "Cruise Release" terminal D. Put the Purple wire on one switch and the extra Terminal A wire on the other with a Jumper running from switch to switch between the leftover terminals. If it's an automagic truck both the purple and Terminal A Tee wire goes to the cruise control brake pedal switch.
• When wired properly with the pedal or pedals up (switch contacts closed) you should measure 0 Ohms between D & A with the stalk unplugged and just the pedal switch or switches plugged in.
• Both manual and automatic pedal switch options are shown below.

1995 Electrical Service manual Cruise Control wiring diagram...

[Katrina/10]

Interesting reading and great info provided. I have been wanting to try this on a truck I swapped a TBI unit onto, but I used an add-on VSS. It goes inline in the speedo cable, and I believe it provides a 2k square wave signal. I wonder if I could tap into this signal to run the cruise unit mentioned above?

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Katrina/10

Interesting reading and great info provided. I have been wanting to try this on a truck I swapped a TBI unit onto, but I used an add-on VSS. It goes inline in the speedo cable, and I believe it provides a 2k square wave signal. I wonder if I could tap into this signal to run the cruise unit mentioned above?

I think I'd stay away from putting two components on one signal. The Optical VSSB used on the squares has two Speed signal output channels ECM (C3) and Cruise Control and the later rigs with a VSSB amplifier or DRAC/VSSB box had multiple isolated VSS signal outputs. GM probably had a reason to isolate them from eachother.

What rig did you get the TBI wiring and controls from...

TBI DRAC or VSS Buffer Amplifiers, if you installed one, have ECM, Speedometer, and cruise control VSS output channels.

Some F-bodies and other GM rigs in the mid 80's had a VSS buffer with multiple output channels. Part # 25071437.

The ECM may actually have a Cruise control VSS output that may work depending on what it was liberated from...

Your other option is...
RockAuto has new Optical Pickup VSSB units from GM Restoration Parts for around $50. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....sn=507&jsn=507
If all of the 81 up speed heads really have provision for optical VSSB, and you have an 81 or newer truck, it would be extremely easy to install.

[burban nate]

EFI Connection has a pigtail available for the Electro-Motor cruise units, their wire colors are based on the '96-'02 wire diagrams but I believe the plug is the same for all units.

https://www.eficonnection.com/eficon...px?ItemId=1207

Nate

[Katrina/10]

Originally Posted by hatzie

I think I'd stay away from putting two components on one signal. The Optical VSSB used on the squares has two Speed signal output channels ECM (C3) and Cruise Control and the later rigs with a VSSB amplifier or DRAC/VSSB box had multiple isolated VSS signal outputs. GM probably had a reason to isolate them from eachother.

What rig did you get the TBI wiring and controls from...

TBI DRAC or VSS Buffer Amplifiers, if you installed one, have ECM, Speedometer, and cruise control VSS output channels.

Some F-bodies and other GM rigs in the mid 80's had a VSS buffer with multiple output channels. Part # 25071437.

The ECM may actually have a Cruise control VSS output that may work depending on what it was liberated from...

Your other option is...
RockAuto has new Optical Pickup VSSB units from GM Restoration Parts for around $50. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....sn=507&jsn=507
If all of the 81 up speed heads really have provision for optical VSSB, and you have an 81 or newer truck, it would be extremely easy to install.

Thanks, I have a 1971 C10 with complete engine, wiring, and ecm from a 1987 C10. The computer is a 1227747 with the VSS hooked up to the regular (magnetic) input, and it seems to work fine. I have heard of the DRAC, but have not worked with one, so I'm not familiar with what it can do. I'll do some reading and see if that might work.

[hatzie]

The EFI Connection pigtail isn't a bad deal for most folks. If you don't do a lot of this you'll spend almost the same price on the parts as they are charging for their pigtail. If you have spools of wire and Metripack parts in your arsenal...

EFI connection uses a mix of 20ga & 18ga wire. If you're rolling your own you can use 18ga GXL jacketed wire for all seven or eight wires. A 10 color assortment of 25' coiled 18awg GXL wire from the Wire Barn is around $34 US.

Delphi Metri-Pack 150 connector part #s for the Cruise Module.

• 1 x 12065425 10 Position 2 Row Metripack 150 Black Female Shell.
• 1 x 12124264 10 Position 2 Row Metripack 150 TPA Secondary Lock
• 10 x 12048074 Silicon Bronze Tin Plated terminal wire size 1.00mm² - 0.80mm² (18-20awg)
• 5 x 12059168 Cavity Plug Red
• 10 x 15324973 Cable Seal Red

[75C10]

Hatzie,
Thank you for all of the great info.
Very very helpful.
Darwin