$2000 budget to start

[Dad's72]

Okay, my truck hasn't run in probably 20 years. I did get it started up a couple years back but he carb got gunked up. What would be the smartest way to spend $2000 on it? I am not worried about anything cosmetic at this point. Strictly just to get it driving. It was my father's so I know it is all original down to the carb. No shady work has ever been done to it. So that is good I guess.
I found an old work ticket in the truck and it said something along the lines that there was some valve adjustments done to it before it sat. So I am thinking that the heads may need to be rebuilt on it. There is a machine shop here that will do them for just over a $125 a side.

What would some of y'all do that have done this before?

I'm trying to get a game plan together for such a small budget. I can probably get a more made before too long, but that is all I have right now. Next year will be better since a small loan I have will be paid off at the end of this year and my youngest will be out of day care. That together will free up about $1100 a month.

[cypressbog]

Brakes and suspension for safety.

[35boulder]

x2 on the brakes.

[Dad's72]

I thought about that as well. That can add up pretty quickly but I know it is needed in order to be able to drive it.
Like what though? Springs, bushing kit, shocks, soft lines, wheel cylinders, I'm pretty sure I need new hubs all the way around (they rusted to the rims kind of bad), and new calipers? Do y'all think the booster and master cylinder would still be good?

[ettsn]

Brakes, shocks, tires first.

[Mike C]

Brakes are cheap. Buy from RockAuto. Calipers, pads, shoes, wheel cylinders, and rubber lines. New master and you are in it for $250.

I would buy an eBay HEI ignition and wires which would be another $100. (Get a set of wires on RockAuto as well. Tons of clearance HEI wires, pick some from a 75-79 Corvette and choose the spiral wrapped magnetic suppression style).

Fuel is the big challenge. I would put a Summit Re-man Q-jet on the truck with a new fuel pump once again from RockAuto. Replace any rubber lines. $400

But the killer with vehicles that have sat a LONG time is the fuel tank needs to be removed and boiled out if the fuel has turned to varnish. $50

This is about $800 in parts which gives you plenty of money to put towards tires.

[71meangreenc10]

Well,

I just went through one that sat for a few years. Here is what I would do.

1. Fuel tank, don't clean it, replace it, they are available and you don't need the headaches, unless you have a scope and can verify the entire tank. New sending unit, don't put the brass float in, get the plastic one I posted and move on. Check the lines, that means pull them out of the truck and blow them out with air or replace. Rebuild the carb. Replace any rubber line. Replace fuel pump....

2. Replace the master cylinder and all rubber lines, change the wheel cylinders, if disks are on the front, check them and may replace. Flush all the lines and bleed.

3. Flush the engine block and heater core, replace all hoses. Check condition of radiator, replace thermostat. Water pump may be suspect also, Id change it.

4. Service all axles to included checking wheel bearings and replace all seals.

5. Check for electrical gremlins...They are a sneaky breed......Check the operation of all safety items: Wipers, washer, lights, horn.......

6. Flush trans if automatic and drop in some duraguard, that stuff works wonders....If manual, just flush it...

Use rockauto to compare how much you are getting smoked at a parts store and they have a 5% code online you can use. Big orders may eat up a lot of shipping costs if you go that route. You can also get what you want through them. I have built from the ground up a few trucks in my time , so if you need anything, shoot me a PM.....

Smitty

[NoNeck]

Just because your dad had the valves adjusted doesn't mean the heads need reworked.

After 20 years of sitting, this is what I would do with $2000:

1: Clean and pressure wash the engine bay. This makes it much easier to work and inspect all external components.

2: Replace ALL drive belts, hoses, rubber vacuum lines and PCV valve.

3: Back-flush the entire cooling system. You can get kits for this. Have the radiator inspected and hot tanked (or replaced), a new radiator cap and fresh antifreeze.

4: Check ALL brake hoses at EVERY wheel. Replace any that "crack" when pinched together. I personally would replace them.

5: Replace the Master Cylinder and ALL wheel cylinders. While your are on the brakes, go ahead and replace the shoes/brake pads. Then completely flush the old fluid out of the system and bleed the brakes. 20 year old brake fluid has the consistency of maple syrup and the moisture in the lines is your enemy.

6: A new carburetor would be the best way to go with a new METAL fuel filter. I would say the diaphragm in the fuel pump is toast, so I would install a new fuel pump.

7: New spark plugs and wires, new distributor cap, points (or HEI), coil and battery. New battery cables would be advisable, too.

8: Install quality valve cover gaskets and change the oil and filter.

9: New windshield wiper blades and make sure the horn works.

10: Check the front and rear suspension, especially the upper and lower control arms and steering box. I would replace any ball joints or bushings just as a precaution.

11: I would replace all 4 tires.

12: I would replace the exhaust because I am sure moisture has rusted things out from the inside.

Any money left (probably not much) replace transmission fluid/dope including the filter and new gasket(s).

I probably missed something...

[Dad's72]

Originally Posted by Mike C

Brakes are cheap. Buy from RockAuto. Calipers, pads, shoes, wheel cylinders, and rubber lines. New master and you are in it for $250.

I would buy an eBay HEI ignition and wires which would be another $100. (Get a set of wires on RockAuto as well. Tons of clearance HEI wires, pick some from a 75-79 Corvette and choose the spiral wrapped magnetic suppression style).

Fuel is the big challenge. I would put a Summit Re-man Q-jet on the truck with a new fuel pump once again from RockAuto. Replace any rubber lines. $400

But the killer with vehicles that have sat a LONG time is the fuel tank needs to be removed and boiled out if the fuel has turned to varnish. $50

This is about $800 in parts which gives you plenty of money to put towards tires.

MikeC, you make this sound so easy. I appreciate your, and everyone else's, input. Sounds like I have a parts list to get on. Is your offer to give me a hand with this still good?

[Grumpy old man]

Woah , woah , woah , DON'T buy anything other than an oil change and starting fluid and carb cleaner , a new battery if you can't jump start it . You only have$ 2,000.00 don't buy anything until it starts and moves ! Then decide what's next . Post a picture it gives everyone a general idea of the trucks condition ! If you start buying gas tanks and carbs and hei distributor and new hose / wires and belts and brakes your budget is gone and it hasn't even shown if it will run . Find a local car club and join before you blow thru your budget and have nothing for you money but receipts ! The truck may be a garage queen and you want him for buy parts sight unseen ? Really ? Slow down and get some one with HANDS ON experience to look it over .

[71meangreenc10]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Woah , woah , woah , DON'T buy anything other than an oil change and starting fluid and carb cleaner , a new battery if you can't jump start it . You only have$ 2,000.00 don't buy anything until it starts and moves ! Then decide what's next . Post a picture it gives everyone a general idea of the trucks condition ! If you start buying gas tanks and carbs and hei distributor and new hose / wires and belts and brakes your budget is gone and it hasn't even shown if it will run . Find a local car club and join before you blow thru your budget and have nothing for you money but receipts ! The truck may be a garage queen and you want him for buy parts sight unseen ? Really ? Slow down and get some one with HANDS ON experience to look it over .

Haha.....
I need to bring in the pictures of the sending unit and fuel tank I just pulled out of a truck to back my statements.....This one was only setting about three years....

I agree with Grumpy that you should get someone with experience, to help reduce your labor costs and show you something's you may overlook....

Smitty

[Coley]

I would initially agree with Grumpy's angle on this.
Don't plan on driving it just yet...that will keep the brake (safety) issue in the background while getting the truck started.
You need to know if this thing will run at all...and that means fuel and spark checks.
If it doesn't run or runs absolutely terribly...new tires and brakes won't mean much so put those 'next' on the list...first things first.....get it running...well.
However...do not attempt to run it on the fuel that may have been in that tank...its toast.
I would take the carb off...thoroughly soak it, clean it, blow it out and ensure that is mechanically operates relatively well...and maybe see if a buddy has a spare carb that would be 'ready' to try as well.
Next would be the ignition.....do you know how to check it?...make sure you have a good spark and look at maybe picking up an HEI unit as some guys have mentioned...OR...putting in a Pertronix electronic ignition unit in the distributor that is there (...about $100-ish).
Then I would re-install the carb and use a separate gas container with new fuel in an attempt to start the truck.
If and/or when it runs...you can decide how well it runs and if you can now continue on to the driving safety items including (importantly) brakes and tires.
One thing at a time tho'....don't start blowin' money...its a bad habit and if you are on a budget you need to move in intelligent steps.
my two bits.

All Good
Coley

[Mike C]

Originally Posted by Dad's72

MikeC, you make this sound so easy. I appreciate your, and everyone else's, input. Sounds like I have a parts list to get on. Is your offer to give me a hand with this still good?

Absolutely. Just need to take a bite out of your parts and we'll get started!

[In The Ten Ring]

Don't forget to spin the oil pump with a drill before trying to start it. My truck is in the same boat, I am saving this thread so I can do some of these things also.

You'll have zero lubricant in your cylinders if you just try and start it as is. I have been told (on here) than one can spin the oil pump with a drill and socket (long extension) and then put the distributor cap back on. I have not done that yet.

My entire fuel system was rusty. I had the tank renewed (a real process) at a radiator shop, carb rebuilt and cleaned, and I made all new fuel lines. I cleaned out my vent lines with "Krud Kutter" and replaced all rubber connection hoses.

OMGosh I guess I had better replace all my brake system too!

[Dad's72]

Thanks for the insight on where to start. I am making parts lists from this thread. So I am thinking my first priority is to get the motor fuel, oil, and spark. I can do this.
As for Grumpy's concern, I cannot answer. My father passed away unexpectedly and I never found out why exactly he parked it. I got it to turn over a couple years back but burned a wire on the starter. I just fixed that and it is ready to go in.
I'm sure the gas tank it toast so I will have to try to run it from a gas can with clean fuel. Anyone want to help with a parts list to make it run and get fuel? And maybe steps so I don't ruin anything in the process?
The carb is off and being rebuilt.

[DBK81]

I've been following your story here for the last bit, being 34 with two young boys, I know where you are at, I'd love to come lend a hand but I think SK to TX is a bit to far hahaha, you have a good wealth of knowledge here, lean on it and it will serve you well. Like was said, new ignition and fuel components, get it running and running well, then start working on the brakes/tires/steering/suspension. If you can try and involve your kids with it, that way you give your wife some free time, and she will love that truck instead of resenting it, and your and your kids will build some great memories with your Dad's old truck. Good luck man, makes me smile thinking about your journey to get it going and all the trucks & cars my Dad and I brought to life, and the bikes and trucks my kids and I brought to life, it's a great feeling.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Pull all the spark plugs and look at them. If they're not oil soaked or damaged, the truck should run. Clean them up, check the gap (can't remember what it is at the moment, I always have to look it up) and put them back in.

Change the oil. If the oil is old as crap don't try to run it, you could suck sludge into all the passages. Run a hose from the fuel pump to gas can, but please be careful and keep it away from the exhaust manifolds. Let it spin over to oil up and see if it will light up. There will probably be a huge smoke cloud at first, don't worry, you just won't have any mosquitos for a while.

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Don't forget to spin the oil pump with a drill before trying to start it. My truck is in the same boat, I am saving this thread so I can do some of these things also.

i agree not priming the motor can cost you BIG!

[Ft.ValloniaStreaker]

I know lots of people enjoy buying things online and having their parts sitting in the doorstep when they get home. If that's your thing enjoy it, but its summer, I'd suggest going to some swap meets, a few junkyards and even a good yard sale or two. To some $2,000 may not seem like much, I'm not ashamed to tell you that I don't have much more than that in my whole truck. Everybody has their way of doing things mine just happens to be cheap...Whatever you do enjoy you Dad's old truck.......and do it YOUR way, cause you want it, not because everybody says that the way it should look

[Dad's72]

Originally Posted by Ft.ValloniaStreaker

I know lots of people enjoy buying things online and having their parts sitting in the doorstep when they get home. If that's your thing enjoy it, but its summer, I'd suggest going to some swap meets, a few junkyards and even a good yard sale or two. To some $2,000 may not seem like much, I'm not ashamed to tell you that I don't have much more than that in my whole truck. Everybody has their way of doing things mine just happens to be cheap...Whatever you do enjoy you Dad's old truck.......and do it YOUR way, cause you want it, not because everybody says that the way it should look

Thanks. I'll have to ask around and see what is going on around town and surrounding areas. I'm not too proud to seek out used parts. And since my budget is small it will help to get some good used parts when I can.

[Dad's72]

Okay, so here is what I got so far for parts list. Let me know if I forgot anything.

For Spark- distributor, leads, plugs (should I just buy a new rotor and cap or the whole thing?)

Fuel- fuel pump, fuel filter, new fuel lines, and rebuild the carb

Cooling- radiator fluid, thermostat, new radiator hoses (if they are dry and cracked), oil, and oil filter

1. Drain the old oil and install new filter
2. Drain the old radiator fluid out of the block and radiator. Since I’m there and its cheap install the new thermostat and radiator hoses if they are cracked.
3. Install the new distributor, leads, and plugs.
4. Prime the oil pump with drill to lube things up inside the motor. (someone recommended squirting a little transmission fluid down the plug holes and turning it a couple times by hand so that I do not ruin the rings. And truth to this?)
5. Install new fuel pump, filter, rebuilt carburetor, fuel lines, and run from a clean gas can.
6. Install the battery from my daily driver.
7. Turn the key and hope for the best!

Did I miss anything? I’ll have to add this up to see what it will set me back. If the motor starts up and runs how long should I let it run for? If I have fluids in it and coolant in it shouldn’t it be fine to run for a while?

[Coley]

...just to help out a bit more.
You may not need to 'rebuild' the carb, but I always recommend thoroughly cleaning it and blowing it all out with compressed air.
I don't know how mechanical you are but carefully removing the top plate (airhorn) will allow you to peer into the top of the carb's bowls, etc and to do a little extra cleaning. If you are very careful you might be able to resuse the top gasket.
Regardless...this goes back to the budget minded approach which is to make headway doing some investigating before spending a bunch of unnecessary money.
I also fully agree with hitting any/all local swap meets to maybe get some good new or spare parts for the truck....including tires.
So help us out a little further here....how mechanical are you and how comfortable are you with a lot of the engine check, firing stuff?...this will help us help you in some of the possible choices available.
all good
Coley

[Dad's72]

Originally Posted by Coley

...just to help out a bit more.
You may not need to 'rebuild' the carb, but I always recommend thoroughly cleaning it and blowing it all out with compressed air.
I don't know how mechanical you are but carefully removing the top plate (airhorn) will allow you to peer into the top of the carb's bowls, etc and to do a little extra cleaning. If you are very careful you might be able to resuse the top gasket.
Regardless...this goes back to the budget minded approach which is to make headway doing some investigating before spending a bunch of unnecessary money.
I also fully agree with hitting any/all local swap meets to maybe get some good new or spare parts for the truck....including tires.
So help us out a little further here....how mechanical are you and how comfortable are you with a lot of the engine check, firing stuff?...this will help us help you in some of the possible choices available.
all good
Coley

I am pretty handy. I can do anything in a home and can replace parts with the best of em when it comes to cars. That being said. I usually take my vehicles places to get told what is wrong and then I do the work myself. I am pretty sure I can do all of this. Seems pretty strait forward. I did squirt a little transmission fluid down the plug holes as instructed and turned the motor by hand. It turned easily. Good sign? Plugs were clean of oil. I will replace with new ones.

[In The Ten Ring]

For his sake and mine, which way does the oil pump need to be turned, clockwise or counter clockwise?


Back to your plans:

Call the local radiator shops and see if they can clean up your fuel tank. (Although I think buying a new tank is cheaper).

Buy a Harbor Freight tube bender. I got mine from ebay.com. You can get Poly Armor fuel line from NAPA. You'll also need a tube cutter, Lowe's has those for cutting copper pipe.

I used the screw down hose clamps over the spring kind.

You'll also need a flare kit. I used a Craftsman model from Sears.

To flare your lines you'll also need a bench vise. I bubble flared all my ends.

I also put in a manual fuel shut off valve behind the seat. I messed up and put it down too low, so I'll have to redo that.

As you can see, this isn't going to be a quick or cheap job but if you take your time and get as much info before you buy or do anything, you'll be OK in the long run.

We want to help you!

*In fact, you and I should hang out sometime: both of our trucks came from 1972 and our dads.

[Coley]

Originally Posted by Dad's72

I am pretty handy. I can do anything in a home and can replace parts with the best of em when it comes to cars. That being said. I usually take my vehicles places to get told what is wrong and then I do the work myself. I am pretty sure I can do all of this. Seems pretty strait forward. I did squirt a little transmission fluid down the plug holes as instructed and turned the motor by hand. It turned easily. Good sign? Plugs were clean of oil. I will replace with new ones.

Sounds like you are good to go so far....and you should be set to handle everything that this start-up/roadworthy stuff is about.
One thing to consider is giving it a simple compression test to see if things are looking generally positive in terms of the engines internal condition.
I would think that you would want to see about 130psi or higher in all cylinders.
All Good
Coley