Windshield washer not working and how this might change everything.

[In The Ten Ring]

Howdy folks!

As some of you know I have been slowly rebuilding my truck since 2013. I was hoping to start putting her back together but now may be the right time to figure out what is wrong with my windshield washer.

I don't remember it working in 2004 (the brief couple of months it sorta "ran" since it was parked in 1994) so that's probably the same now. Yesterday I removed my metal squirter ends from the lines (where the fluid leaves the system and ends up on the glass) and I hoped those were just clogged with paint but no, I can blow through them.

I plan on replacing all my hoses and the grommets too.....are these washer motors bad to go out? Has anyone had their windshield washer stop working? If so, what do you think it might be?

*I am going to go ahead and hook up a battery so I can try and troubleshoot this thing. Suggestions?

[notsolo]

Same problem I will do what, some others here have done, change to mid 90"s set up.http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=495932

[special-K]

Almost every truck I've bought needed the washers fixed. I guess the little buggers just wear themselves out.

[LockDoc]

-
There is a diaphram inside of the pump that rots out. Out of all the running '67-'72 trucks I have owned (8) only 2 have had working windshield washers...

I believe kits are available to rebuild them.

LockDoc

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Howdy folks!

As some of you know I have been slowly rebuilding my truck since 2013. I was hoping to start putting her back together but now may be the right time to figure out what is wrong with my windshield washer.

I don't remember it working in 2004 (the brief couple of months it sorta "ran" since it was parked in 1994) so that's probably the same now. Yesterday I removed my metal squirter ends from the lines (where the fluid leaves the system and ends up on the glass) and I hoped those were just clogged with paint but no, I can blow through them.

I plan on replacing all my hoses and the grommets too.....are these washer motors bad to go out? Has anyone had their windshield washer stop working? If so, what do you think it might be?

*I am going to go ahead and hook up a battery so I can try and troubleshoot this thing. Suggestions?

Well the question is, is it not working because of electrical malfunction or is it mechanical. Knowing how they are wired and how they operate is crucial to fixing the problem. The designers at GM had to be on drugs when they came up with these pumps. It sort of reminds me of these things you see where they start out rolling a little ball that hits a lever that drops a ramp etc.

The washer pump is mounted on the wiper motor which has an electrical coil that lifts a lever and an arm falls on a gear that is connected to the wiper motor gear and the washer lever engages an arm that is moved left and right, which drives a piston that pushes a rubber seal which forces the fluid through an oriforce under pressure into the nozzles to spray it onto the windshield. You get the picture. Is it any wonder that they fail after a few years.

The wiring is the simplest part of the equation. The thing to remember about the motor, the washer, and the switch is they are all controlled on the negative (ground) side.

The yellow wire from the fuse panel goes directly to the motor to power the wiper and the washer coil. Here is the connection to the motor.




The wiring diagram from the factory is wrong, it shows the yellow wire connected to a ground wire which will blow the fuse. Here is the corrected wiring.



Here is the wiring to the pump which is just a jumper from the yellow wire and a ground wire from the wiper switch in the dash that grounds the pump coil when the wiper knob is pushed in. It shows the terminals and the plastic gear in the center but the view is from the front so the gear teeth aren't visible.



Here is the switch which must be grounded to the dash in order to ground the motor fields and the washer coil. It must be noted that the wiper motor must be grounded from one of the mount bolts to the chassis to complete the ground path.



And here is another view of the motor with the washer visible.




if you determine that the pump malfunction is mechanical then, you can opt for a repair kit or you can do what most guys do. Buy a universal washer and install it on the firewall and just connect the wiring and the hoses from the original pump and reservoir.

If you run the yellow wire to the hot side of the universal pump and the OEM pump ground wire to the other terminal, then it will be wired just like the original and it will be fused and operated from the original dash switch.

If you just ground the universal pump to the body of the truck then you will have to install a switch to control the hot side of the pump.

[FlameOut]

I bought an OEM replacement. It was made in the USA and was identical in every way to the original. I'd have to look through my receipts to see where I purchased it, but it might have been from advanceautoparts

[brown7373]

I think one of the worst designs is the washer motor / pump on the INSIDE of the firewall, way up under the dash. The cheap plastic ports and check valves wear out, but replacing them is a major hassle. Why GM didn't put them on the engine side, like every car I have ever seen amazes me. Replacing on a car takes about 5 minutes, which includes a break to drink a beer!

[djeCST]

It's a goofy design, but I decided to use an OEM pump since the P.O. removed the old one. I got one from my local parts guy, $40 and it's even made in the USA! Imagine that. Here's the info if you decide to go that route:



Good luck!

[Andy4639]

I put a late model GM small sedan washer jug with built in electric pump under the hood and wired it off the stock harness. It has been in the truck for close to 15 years are more not one problem out of it.

[In The Ten Ring]

Thanks a ton guys. This info is even more than I had hoped for.

[gmc 2500 4x4]

thanx for this write up, i guess the wiper switch must be mounted to work!

[custom10nut]

Many will replace the factory pump with the set up from an S-10 or the like.
The factory set up is a little weak, but will work, as long as it's not plugged.
Test to see if your pump is bad or just needs to be primed again.
Use a bottle with a tapered tip, and squeeze the water into the washer hose while you push the washer button. This will force prime the pump and it should work, if it doesn't, it's either plugged or the diaphragm is bad, as mentioned above

[davischevy]

The washers never work, so I use the tank as a radiator over flow.

[Myoldtruck]

You can replace the internal rubber parts if the solenoid is still working. Mine, I could here the pump trying to work. I made sure the squiters were clear, then primed all the lines with water (I blew a mouth full of water thru the line going to the tank until it came out onto the windshield) Started working then. Pump is not any good for self priming.