Need some assistance installing locker in 12 bolt

[Mrturner1]

Hey all, I'm putting a locker or tru trac in my 12 bolt, haven't decided yet but I'm tired of 100' one leggers and if this puppy is ever gonna be fast I need both tires a'spinnin lol. I'm looking at Powertrax lock right and obviously Eaton tru trac. What I don't wanna do is remove stuff I don't know how to replace, which is why I'm leaning towards a Powertrax lock right. This is a fun truck, only driven when I want to burn some rubber or cruise around. It will make it to the track soon! Never intend to do 11's with wheelies, but I'm putting a 3000rpm Coan converter soon as well. I know lockers aren't great in the weather, but this truck gets taken apart during the rainy cold season so I'm not worried about it

I took the diff cover off, removed the 4 carrier bolts, removed the pin bolt and pin, and pulled the axles out about a foot or so. That's where I am, and I need a little help on what to do next. If I go with an Eaton tru trac do I have to remove the ring and pinion? AND, if I go with the lock right locker, what's the next step?

[Mrturner1]

Parts

[Bigdav160]

Did you mark the caps? It's critical that they go back on exactly how they came off. Top/bottom Left/Right.

Pry the ring gear and case out. Keep track of what shim came out of the left and right.

Unbolt the ring gear. Look at the bolt head. Does it have an "L"? Left hand threads. Tap on the edge of the ring gear with a brass drift. Or thread the bolts on half way and gently tap them until the ring gear comes off the case.

Make sure everything is spotless clean. Bolt it to the new case. Torque the bolts
Install the case with old shims and check the backlash. If the backlash is good run a pattern check. Most likely it'll be acceptable.

Pinion depth does not change with case replacement.

[Chknlyps2]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

Hey all, I'm putting a locker or tru trac in my 12 bolt, haven't decided yet but I'm tired of 100' one leggers and if this puppy is ever gonna be fast I need both tires a'spinnin lol. I'm looking at Powertrax lock right and obviously Eaton tru trac. What I don't wanna do is remove stuff I don't know how to replace, which is why I'm leaning towards a Powertrax lock right. This is a fun truck, only driven when I want to burn some rubber or cruise around. It will make it to the track soon! Never intend to do 11's with wheelies, but I'm putting a 3000rpm Coan converter soon as well. I know lockers aren't great in the weather, but this truck gets taken apart during the rainy cold season so I'm not worried about it

I took the diff cover off, removed the 4 carrier bolts, removed the pin bolt and pin, and pulled the axles out about a foot or so. That's where I am, and I need a little help on what to do next. If I go with an Eaton tru trac do I have to remove the ring and pinion? AND, if I go with the lock right locker, what's the next step?

Here is a you tube video for an Eaton Tru Trac for a 10 bolt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4HhJ5WyRp4

A few years ago I put in a locker for a friend and I don't remember the brand. The carrier stayed in place and all I had to take out was the spiders and side gears and replace with the locker pieces. It was pretty darn easy. It locks well but does click going around slow tight corners.

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Chknlyps2

Here is a you tube video for an Eaton Tru Trac for a 10 bolt https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4HhJ5WyRp4

A few years ago I put in a locker for a friend and I don't remember the brand. The carrier stayed in place and all I had to take out was the spiders and side gears and replace with the locker pieces. It was pretty darn easy. It locks well but does click going around slow tight corners.

That's the lock rite, the one I'm almost sold on. Did you have to remove the ring gear and shims?

[Mrturner1]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

Did you mark the caps? It's critical that they go back on exactly how they came off. Top/bottom Left/Right.

Pry the ring gear and case out. Keep track of what shim came out of the left and right.

Unbolt the ring gear. Look at the bolt head. Does it have an "L"? Left hand threads. Tap on the edge of the ring gear with a brass drift. Or thread the bolts on half way and gently tap them until the ring gear comes off the case.

Make sure everything is spotless clean. Bolt it to the new case. Torque the bolts
Install the case with old shims and check the backlash. If the backlash is good run a pattern check. Most likely it'll be acceptable.

Pinion depth does not change with case replacement.

I didn't mark them but I'm 90% positive that I placed them on the towel exactly how they came off. I know for sure I have the left and right, but I could have one upside down. What happens if one is flipped?

[cdowns]

b4 doing ANYTHING it's a great idea to get the service manual and follow the directions that gm put in their service manual to do things right

[Chknlyps2]

Originally Posted by Mrturner1

That's the lock rite, the one I'm almost sold on. Did you have to remove the ring gear and shims?

No, as stated the carrier stayed in place. You already removed more than I had to.... well except the side gears.

On the caps, just like main bearing or rod bearing caps on an engine, they were torqued in place when the housing was machined and line bored. They go back on the same side and the same orientation that they came off from. If switched they may line up and go back on if they were swapped or they may not.... they may be to tight, may put pressure on one side of the race and not the other causing the bearing to grenade, or they may be to loose and let the bearing walk around under load.

[DBK81]

If you are doing a Richmond Locker you didn't need to take the caps off. It's a simple install with everything staying in place.

[Z10]

I've installed a Power Trax in my 72. You can see photos in my build thread. The truck now has 9000 miles with no issues. I also have on installed in my 69 Camaro.