Light issues

[66clow]

I just installed a signal switch because I didn't have brake lights. New veh purchase. Brake lights still didn't work. Found underneath the green and white wire weren't attached coming from the dash wire. Photo attached. I attached them and now brake lights work but the front parking lights come on with the brake pedal as well. What wires should I look at that would cause this. After I get this sorted I still have to figure out the signal lamps not working. I have installed grounds from the engine to cab and bed to frame and rear lamp panel to frame as well.

https://goo.gl/photos/GSfkFzG5hVcDoFQK7

https://goo.gl/photos/rfTKbvAADwSSMj3D7

[cdowns]

you need to go to school and learn what grounding is really all about

[palallin]

The brake lights are controlled by the brake light switch, not the signal switch. I don't have a digital diagram or pic to post, but that switch is, if I remember correctly, activated by the brake pedal arm.

[66clow]

Originally Posted by palallin

The brake lights are controlled by the brake light switch, not the signal switch. I don't have a digital diagram or pic to post, but that switch is, if I remember correctly, activated by the brake pedal arm.

Here is a diagram. It's the switch anyway connected to the brake switch? Just trying to figure out how the front parking lamps could be coming on with the brake pedal.
https://goo.gl/photos/KZ8a3RiC7h7LgiqJ9

[VetteVet]

This may help.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=653655

[66clow]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

This may help.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=653655

Dang you must have a masters in wiring. I hope to trace it with that explanation. I'll let you know wish me luck. Don't know what we would do without the helpful folks on here.

Thanks

[66clow]

Update partial victory. Was having a problem with the front parking lamps coming on when the brake pedal was depressed. I had just installed the signal switch. Finally discovered the hazard switch was depressed inside the steering wheel and I didn't realize it. My signal lamps still are not working at the moment. I see I'm missing the hazard switch on the fuse panel wonder if that effects that? Just glad brake lamp issue is done with.woohoo! After hours of wiring tracing

[halfstep]

Vette Vet has multiple PHD's, tenured professorship and a Mother Teresa humanitarian award for his electrical savvy and service here.

[66clow]

Are the 2 flashers the same on the fuse box? The silver circles for the hazard and signal. My hazard was missing, would that effect the signals working as well?

[Andy4639]

One is for signals and one is for hazards.

[66clow]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

One is for signals and one is for hazards.

Is the actual part the same or different? Do I purchase 2 of the same part#'s. Thanks

[Andy4639]

They are the same.

[66clow]

Ok I replaced both of my flashers for the hazard and signal. The hazards are working and all the other lights are except the signal lamps. I have replaced the signal switch, what do I begin testing first? I have a test lamp. The lamps do not come on at all when you push the signal switch. Thank you

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by 66clow

Update partial victory. Was having a problem with the front parking lamps coming on when the brake pedal was depressed. I had just installed the signal switch. Finally discovered the hazard switch was depressed inside the steering wheel and I didn't realize it. My signal lamps still are not working at the moment. I see I'm missing the hazard switch on the fuse panel wonder if that effects that? Just glad brake lamp issue is done with.woohoo! After hours of wiring tracing

So the brake lamps are working now but no turn signals or hazards even with
both flashers? Either flasher will work in either position, I seem to recall that the hazard flasher was a heavier duty because it carried the amperage for four lights instead of two. Maybe not I'm not sure.

Originally Posted by 66clow

Ok I replaced both of my flashers for the hazard and signal. The hazards are working and all the other lights are except the signal lamps. I have replaced the signal switch, what do I begin testing first? I have a test lamp. The lamps do not come on at all when you push the signal switch. Thank you

The hazard lights are powered by a brown wire in the harness from the fuse panel to the crescent connector on the column. It is next to the turn signal power wire from the TS flasher in the fuse panel. The first thing to determine is if there is power on these two wires with the key switch on. If the hazards work then the brown wire must have power. If there is no voltage on the purple wire then the turn signals are not going to work.

The contacts in the turn signal switch use the same wires for the turn lamps as they do for the hazards so I suspect there is no power on them for the signals, AKA purple wire.

The power for these wires has to go through the flashers. Before I forget the brown hazard wire should have power constant with or without the key on. Have you switched the flashers?

[66clow]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

So the brake lamps are working now but no turn signals or hazards even with
both flashers? Either flasher will work in either position, I seem to recall that the hazard flasher was a heavier duty because it carried the amperage for four lights instead of two. Maybe not I'm not sure.



The hazard lights are powered by a brown wire in the harness from the fuse panel to the crescent connector on the column. It is next to the turn signal power wire from the TS flasher in the fuse panel. The first thing to determine is if there is power on these two wires with the key switch on. If the hazards work then the brown wire must have power. If there is no voltage on the purple wire then the turn signals are not going to work.

The contacts in the turn signal switch use the same wires for the turn lamps as they do for the hazards so I suspect there is no power on them for the signals, AKA purple wire.

The power for these wires has to go through the flashers. Before I forget the brown hazard wire should have power constant with or without the key on. Have you switched the flashers?


Attachment 1532879

Thanks for chiming in to give me a starting point. You make things so easy to follow a kindergartener can do it. Hopefully I can too . May not get back to my truck till next weekend but I'll update you. Thanks again

[66clow]

Originally Posted by 66clow

Thanks for chiming in to give me a starting point. You make things so easy to follow a kindergartener can do it. Hopefully I can too . May not get back to my truck till next weekend but I'll update you. Thanks again

Ok I did some testing. Fyi if it matters I don't have an actual horn hooked up. Didn't buy one yet if that matters. With key off I put my test lamp on the crescent wires. I show power to all wire colors except black and brown. With key on the same thing no power to black or brown. When I turn on the hazard the test light flashes on the brown, blue, and green wires. Does the horn relay effect the signals? Again signal switch is new. Ignition switch is new. New flashers, I switch them as well still no difference. All other lamps work as they should. Fuses good. Inside lamps flash with hazards.

Thanks

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by 66clow

Ok I did some testing. Fyi if it matters I don't have an actual horn hooked up. Didn't buy one yet if that matters. With key off I put my test lamp on the crescent wires. I show power to all wire colors except black and brown. With key on the same thing no power to black or brown. When I turn on the hazard the test light flashes on the brown, blue, and green wires. Does the horn relay effect the signals? Again signal switch is new. Ignition switch is new. New flashers, I switch them as well still no difference. All other lamps work as they should. Fuses good. Inside lamps flash with hazards.

Thanks

IF you can hear the horn relay click then the horn will work if the green wire is connected to it. The black wire in the connector is the horn relay ground wire and it won't have any power to it. When you push the horn button with the harnesses connected does the relay click?

The brown wire is the power wire for the four ways and it should have power on it at all times. I'm talking about the steering column harness from the fuse box not the column.

The purple wire should have power when the key is on. It's the one that powers the turn signal wires in the switch.

The white wire is the brake light power and will be hot when the brake pedal is pushed, key on or off. It sends power to the signal switch to the dark green and yellow wires when the switch is in neutral.

The two blue wires are for the front turns and the indicator lights in the dash.

Check the brown, purple, and white wires, remember they are the input power to the TSS all the other wires are output power to the lights ( except the black one).

If you have no power on the brown wire then the hazard flasher is bad or there is no power from the hazard fuse on the fuse panel. It should have a 12
brown wire running from there to the crescent connector at the top right of the diagram.

Looking at the other side of the fuse panel you can see the purple wire which is fed by a 12 gauge brown wire from the key switch.

[66clow]

Could my ignition wires be switch? The black wires are actually the brown wires. So thinking the pink goes to the black location, purple goes to the pink location and brown/black to the purple location based on the diagram?

[66clow]

I did some tracing. think my issue is the ignition switch wiring. Red looks ok. Tan looks like it should be in the green location. So move that up. My black is the pink and looks ok, goes to distributor. . I think my PPL and pink looking (aka faded brown) should be switched. Does this sounds right to switch before I blow something up?

[66clow]

My theory with switching the ignition wires is incorrect. I put a test light at the flasher and one side shows constant power key on or off. When I put on the signal the other one has power. So if this is how it is suppose to work it is just not flashing the lamps. ???? What do you suspect? I tried the old flasher also and nothing.

[VetteVet]

Your first picture shows you testing the purple wire which won't have any power unless the key is on and the signal flasher is inserted. The red arrows I have inserted show the connection points for the two signal flashers and the blue box above shows the crescent connector and the purple and brown wires for the signal flashers.

The second picture, you show testing the brown wire from the key switch Accessory terminal, is a 12 gauge brown wire (pink arrow), which only powers the fusebox when the key is on. This is the other connection for the turn signal flasher. If you have any power on either of these wires with the key off then you have another feed from somewhere else and the flashers should work with the key off which we know is wrong. Try your test again and this time unplug the connector.

Now looking at the hazard flasher points on the right side, also red arrows, you see the red wire from the battery feeds the fuses that are constant hot. if you follow the brown wire up into the blue box to the turn signal connector you see it next to the purple wire and it should be hot when the hazard flasher is inserted and the four ways should work with the key off.

The very first thing you should do is clean all the fuses and fuse holders in that fuse panel as they may not be making good connection, which will cause all kinds of problems.

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

This may help.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=653655

Some time ago "Liz" had posted a thread of maybe 4 or 5 entry's and in it it had the complete trucks wiring in color with two pages, front half & the other page has the rear of truck. Also both can be enlarged just click the enlarge button. Same diagram as "VetteVet has but with a little twist to them. These might also help you. You'll need to find these or maybe some one here can get you the Link.

[66clow]

Vettevet, I will follow your steps. I was just looking at my fuse box because the only wire I haven't traced on the ignition switch is that faded pink wire that should be brown. By the box I see this below with the pink wire that does not look factory.
I'm going to pull off the fuse box and do some wiring tracing and see where that goes. It is one wire split into two. Stay tuned.

[66clow]

Victory is sooooo sweet. After I don't know how many hours, days, weeks, I now have all my lights working

The po was obviously not part of 67-72 chevy trucks. I had to finally really dig into the wiring harness. Thanks to Vettevet you're awesome don't know what I would have done without your knowledge and expertise. Thanks for the patience of following up with me. After you told me the brown wire should not be constant I tracked that one down starting at the back of the fuse box. I pulled the cluster out. I followed it toward the ignition switch and found it going no where. Someone had just cut it. The pink wire at the ignition was where it was suppose to go. After I saw the splicing of the pink wire near the fuse box I knew something wasn't right. I cut that wire out and connected the brown wire to the switch and tada! Lights. Thanks to all for the input. Now to the horn. But there is already a thread going on for that to follow. Below is the bad splicing job and the cut brown wire found.