Do you replace or reuse rusty hardware?

[In The Ten Ring]

By the time my truck is reassembled, I would have cleaned up so many nuts, bolts, washers, and screws, it'll get 30 mpg!

I studiously clean up and plan to reuse every single fastener I can off my truck. Do you do that too or just get new ones?

Do you reassemble without cleaning up the bolts, etc?

These have been in Evaporust soak, hit with a wire wheel, and Permatexed.

[Grumpy old man]

Clean and reuse specialty hardware ,all other hardware upgraded to grade 8 , it's not worth the time to clean old nuts and bolts

[Steven R]

I disassemble bag and tag label, sandblast and paint, then reassemble if possible in the same place they came from. Some always are too far gone or not worth the effort due to corrosion or damage.

I have bought new ones, blasted them and painted to match the originals that I have already restored.

[68bowtie]

it sounds like you're a very patient person! good for you though, pretty cool.

[LockDoc]

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I clean ALL of my parts and fasteners then sort out the unusable ones. It works like a charm and cleans a lot of stuff at one time...

LockDoc

[Gromit]

I like the grade 8 idea.. also blasting of course but I don't have a sand or baking soda blaster; I think it depends how much time you have until reassembly. I do keep a 5 gallon bucket and some other smaller containers (like a section of 4" ABS pipe with a glued on cap on one end and a removable cap on the top for long pieces) and full of blackstrap molasses. I have found I can degrease a bunch of fasteners and then throw them into the molasses to soak for a couple of weeks and they come out pretty good in terms of rust removal. They do start to rust again right away out of the molasses so I have to get some kind of coating on them right away.

One good thing about molasses is it is pretty organic so disposal is easy (I don't put chrome stuff in there, nor in my DIY battery charger electrolysis set up)...

I have found that all of those trips to the hardware store can add up too... and even though my local Ace Hardware has an excellent selection of fasteners they often are not exactly the same as stock - either the thread count is different or the overall length or head profile, etc. Original has its charms..

[Chknlyps2]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I clean ALL of my parts and fasteners then sort out the unusable ones. It works like a charm and cleans a lot of stuff at one time...

LockDoc

I clean brass that way for reloading using stainless steel pins for media, never thought about using it for hardware.... pretty nifty!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I've been cleaning mine up, though I have the luxury of no pitting and a dry climate. Yes it takes a lot of time. Today I spent near two hours just cleaning J-nuts for the fenders, though once I figured out how to get inside, about 5 minutes each.

As opposed the evap. rust, ever try soaking parts in white vinegar for 24 hours or so? Follow that with WD-40, brushes and a Dremmel, if the metal is good they come out like new. I don't use vinegar for the finer objects, such as those star washers. Soak in WD-40 instead. I have a BEAUTIFUL set of mirror reinforcements in WD right now. Left them in vinegar overnight, a little brushing and they're near done. Maybe 5 minutes each in the morning, good as new.

[special-K]

It depends on condition. I soak in Osphos and coat with mineral oil on to store. Any factory part that can be saved is worth the effort. That's restoration, has nothing to do with production. I just put new leaf springs on my '72 and the original bolts were so clean I reused them. If new grade 8 bolts are from China I figure I'm better off with the 40 year old ones.

[Shady Rascal]

I have them replated. At a dollar per pound, you can do every fastener on the entire truck for less than a 50 dollar bill. It is really nice for little springs and brackets and clips.

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by Shady Rascal

I have them replated. At a dollar per pound, you can do every fastener on the entire truck for less than a 50 dollar bill. It is really nice for little springs and brackets and clips.

Those look great. What plating is that? Zinc?

Thanks, Rg

[Ruscal]

Originally Posted by Shady Rascal

I have them replated. At a dollar per pound, you can do every fastener on the entire truck for less than a 50 dollar bill. It is really nice for little springs and brackets and clips.]

I had my motorcycle hardware cad plated during yearly maintenance. They would bake it after plating to stop hydrogen embrittlement. Everything looked like new.
Russ

[Shady Rascal]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

Those look great. What plating is that? Zinc?

Thanks, Rg

It's called clear zinc. They also have black and yellow if you prefer. Pretty much any moderate sized urban area will have a plating shop. I found mind through a quick google search and haven't ever bought much new hardware since then. My shop has a 25 dollar minimum charge for the first 25 pounds plus one dollar per pound over 25. You can plate a lot of hardware and widgets for 25 pounds. Four day turn around time.

[nobolt]

wow, how clean do they have to be to have them plated like that?

[Shady Rascal]

They clean them. I disassemble stuff and throw into a box. If it's something that's just horrible greasy I soak them in degreaser before I throw them in the box simply as a courtesy. But, first step of their process is clean with products > anything we garage dwellers ever dreamed of.

[DeadheadNM]

Absolutely I reuse old hardware. In addition to the zinc you can re-plate bolts etc with the OEM black phosphate inexpensively. I just take in a box of greasy parts and they return literally looking brand new: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=114

[Shady Rascal]

I knew a Shady Rascal once who was going through a hard stretch in his life. He went to the junkyard and pulled every single 5/16" body bolt from GM vehicles he could find. You know the pointy fender bolts with built in washers ? After having them replated to look new he sold them at the swap meet for 50 cents each and made obscene cash off of the deal. A five gallon bucket of fresh bolts at 50 cents each add up to big bucks. Those bolts fit pretty much every pre-metric GM vehicle and the Camaro and Chevelle guys flocked to their shiny goodness.

Edited to add: While that fellow may be shady, he did not misrepresent the hardware as new. He was straight up front that it was all restored original GM hardware. The restorers still bought it like crack.

[DeadheadNM]

Here's some additional zinc finished pics. The tower clamps and k5 lift gate latches turn out nice: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=208

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

That black phosphate looks great Deadhead. I'm going to look into it. Is there a minimum size that can be done? In other words, can small u-nuts be parkerized?

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Absolutely I reuse old hardware. In addition to the zinc you can re-plate bolts etc with the OEM black phosphate inexpensively. I just take in a box of greasy parts and they return literally looking brand new: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=114

I remember looking into that last year but decided shipping would be a bit much.

I may do it later though.

Sometimes threads really take off and reveal all sorts of information. This is one of those.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I've been cleaning mine up, though I have the luxury of no pitting and a dry climate. Yes it takes a lot of time. Today I spent near two hours just cleaning J-nuts for the fenders, though once I figured out how to get inside, about 5 minutes each.

As opposed the evap. rust, ever try soaking parts in white vinegar for 24 hours or so? Follow that with WD-40, brushes and a Dremmel, if the metal is good they come out like new. I don't use vinegar for the finer objects, such as those ground washers. Soak in WD-40 instead. I have a BEAUTIFUL set of mirror reinforcements in WD right now. Left them in vinegar overnight, a little brushing and they're near done. Maybe 5 minutes each in the morning, good as new.

That might be worth a try. Evaporust isn't cheap. I only go that route since I have zero space for a blasting cabinet.

Shady Rascal, that Shady Rascal you speak of seems like a sharp fellow and not a bad guy at all. I'm glad he did well there.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

That might be worth a try. Evaporust isn't cheap. I only go that route since I have zero space for a blasting cabinet.

Shady Rascal, that Shady Rascal you speak of seems like a sharp fellow and not a bad guy at all. I'm glad he did well there.

White vinegar works amazing, and I reuse it until it's not reusable.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

That black phosphate looks great Deadhead. I'm going to look into it. Is there a minimum size that can be done? In other words, can small u-nuts be parkerized?

Nuts, washers heck I've done the tiny screws that affix the vac pod thingy to the RH kick panel on AC cabs. Places seem to have a minimum charge though as mentioned. Well worth doing and cost effective when done in bulk.

EDIT: Here's an example of the black zinc from member tjsblazer's excellent build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=178

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Nuts, washers heck I've done the tiny screws that affix the vac pod thingy to the RH kick panel on AC cabs. Places seem to have a minimum charge though as mentioned. Well worth doing and cost effective when done in bulk.

EDIT: Here's an example of the black zinc from member tjsblazer's excellent build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=178

Minimum charge no problem. Must be a couple hundred parts that can be parkerized off a build. I pretty well inventory what I got anyway. A more detailed list saves A TON of time painting and 2nd rate cold oxide.

[fwayne]

Apple Cider Vinegar works wonders! For some reason it works better than plain vinegar for me. Its fast. I find most parts I leave overnight, and pull them out, use a cloth or small soft brush to wipe them down. Works amazingly well. Bio degradable, and cheap!

On some rusty parts the result is indistinguishable from a brand new bare metal piece.