Cab Mounts

[Matthewjb]

I just put my 69 c10 cab back on the frame after putting in a new one piece floor and firewall, etc and everything fit like a charm! I've heard of a lot of horror stories with new metal not fitting right....so far I've been lucky. However, my question is with the rear cab mounts--The nut is visible inside the cab along with the washer, but there is about 1 and a 1/2 inches of the screw exposed past the nut. It's almost like the bolt is too long. Anyone run across this?

[67chevy1]

You did put your cushion back in between the frame and cab didn't you?

[Matthewjb]

lol, yes I did. Everything seems to be correct, just odd that its like that. Is it a big deal if I have both the front and rear cab mounts both tightened in the same direction? Or do the front mount bolts have to be inserted from top of floor and rear mounts inserted from bottom of floor (beneath cab)

[67chevy1]

Are they new bolts and maybe built for more than 1 application? I don't know but I think I would study everything and make sure everything is good and then cut them off and retried the point on them.

[Matthewjb]

That's what I was thinking too, just cutting. Is there a reason for fronts and rear mounts to be in opposite directions? If not, I may just flip the rear bolts around and that will fix it.

[67chevy1]

On my 67 the nut is made into the cab

[Matthewjb]

right, and on the front mounts all you see is the head of the bolt (inside the cab) and the nut is below the two cushions (under the cab) right

[67chevy1]

Yeah

[jwilb88]

Originally Posted by Matthewjb

I just put my 69 c10 cab back on the frame after putting in a new one piece floor and firewall, etc and everything fit like a charm! I've heard of a lot of horror stories with new metal not fitting right....so far I've been lucky. However, my question is with the rear cab mounts--The nut is visible inside the cab along with the washer, but there is about 1 and a 1/2 inches of the screw exposed past the nut. It's almost like the bolt is too long. Anyone run across this?

Mine are the same way on my 67 the new bolts stick through around 1 1/2 inches.. My new cab mounts came from LMC. If you zoom in you can see in the picture. I wouldn't cut the bolt shorter because I don't think you would have enough to get it started before the bushing starts to compress.

[Matthewjb]

Ok, I'm glad I wasnt the only one, lol. Also, my kit did not come with small washers for the front like you have there. They only came with oversized washers that look like the shims.....anyway, I didn't put any washers on the front mounts (inside the cab)...is this a concern? I feel like it will be good, what do yall think?

[CarterD2015]

Can you flip it over and put the nut on the bottom?

[Matthewjb]

That was one of my thoughts, I just wasn't sure if there was a reason they front and back were flip flopped. Can anyone shed some light on that

[oleguy]

On a 67 C10, the original foreward cab mount bolts point down and the head is tack welded to the floorboard.The rear cab mount has the nut tack welded to the top (inside fo the cab) of the floorboard,with the bolt going up from underneath.I know this is correct for 1967 C10, and I belive this is also correct through 1972. I hope this is of help to you.

[69chevytrucker]

the rear mounts have the nuts on top once you have the bolts tight and everything right cut the extra amount of bolt off it will be ok

[Matthewjb]

Awesome guys, y'all have been a real help. Thx

[clemsonteg]

I wouldn't do anything with the bolts if you are going to run an in cab tank. Rear bolts mount the way they do so you don't have to pull the tank to take the bolts loose. I would mount the tank to make sure there are not clearance issue, and trim the smalles amount necessary to eliminate any.