Sending units... Who has a better way?

[Major86]

I am dropping both tanks on my 86 square to change sending units. I have tank guards off and spent some time looking tonight to determine how I want to do this. When it comes to disconnecting hard line from soft line on driver side, it doesn't look very easy to do since everything is tucked under cab (total disaster on Chevys part IMO). I was thinking it would be possible to just cut fuel lines at the crossmember before they run over frame to soft lines and then just remove them, flare the ends and run new longer soft lines when reinstalling the tanks. Seems EZPZ but I'm sure someone has tries and may have a better solution. Thanks

[AntiGov]

I pulled the bed when I replaced both tanks , sending units , and pumps. It's not that bad and I would do it again if need be.

[hatzie]

If you have the 20 gallon tanks they are accessible by sliding the bed back onto some 4x4 timbers. Two or four guys can do this.

16 gallon tanks are slightly under the cab. You don't want to re-use 31 year old fuel sender hoses. They are likely pretty nasty and they don't put up with alcohol blended fuels as well as the new stuff. Cut the fuel and vent lines to pull the tank. Replace them with new SAEJ30R9 hose and constant tension band clamps or fuel injection clamps.
Info on what hoses and clamps to use and why here -->http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=696742

Install new sender hoses that are a few inches too long so you have some wiggle room once the tank is installed. A cable tool for constant tension band clamps will let you move fuel hose band clamps around in some pretty tight quarters.

Pull the hoses off the valve so you can unclamp and move the steel crossover lines around. Again... Re-install with new SAE J30R9 hose and constant tension band clamps at the valve... or... because it's pretty accessible you could use use fuel injection clamps.
There's no rule that says you can't shorten the crossover lines and install longer SAE J30R9 sender lines. Just be sure to deburr them, blow out the swarf, and put a bead on the new ends to retain the hose.

I use a very thin layer of Sil-Glyde on hose barbs and beaded steel lines. You can get a tube at O'Rileys, Advance, AutoZone, Etc. The hoses slide on easier and they don't stick so you can remove them if need be.

[Firebirdjones]

Just like Antigov said, remove the bed. Easy Peasy

[tucsonjwt]

I don't like the bed removal option because you can have trouble with the bed mounting bolts. If the bolts don't come out easily you can round out the square hole in the bed and create more problems. Plus, you have to muscle the bed around.

I have always just supported the tanks with concrete blocks and 2 x 4s and 1x wood pieces, then removed the tank straps. You can then gradually remove wood and blocks until the rear of the tank drops enough to reach up and disconnect the clamps on the rubber lines, and work the rubber lines off the hard lines. Then you can disconnect the wiring from the sending unit and pull the tank out by removing all of the concrete blocks. I always replace all rubber fuel lines while I am at it. Aside from getting very dirty it is not a big problem. Be sure to wear safety goggles (not safety glasses) and cover your head with a tight fitting cap - there will be a lot of dirt dropping down on your face. I cover my whole head with a thin cotton rag to keep the dirt out of my ears.

If you have not yet purchased sending units, I would suggest spending the money to get AC Delco sending units. I used Spectra brand sending units and they caused the gas gauge to bounce - never had that problem with ACD units.

This is a good time to clean, sand, prime, and paint the gas tank brackets. Also, replace the anti-squeak pads with 30# roofing felt pieces.

[Firebirdjones]

What are you talking about, we live in Arizona, nothing rusts around here

I soak everything the night before, sometimes a little heat for persuasion and they have always come right off for me