Very Strange Electrical Issue

[LuvNLife]

I'm dating myself here, but sometimes I feel like that Lil' Abner character with the cloud constantly hanging over his head, when it comes to my truck. Seems I never run into run-of-the-mill problems.

It's an '87 R1500 short bed, 2WD. The original engine is out, replaced with a GM crate 350, it's backed by a non-lockup 700R and factory 3.08 gears. Also, all of the computer and emissions gear is gone. The only related item is the check engine light; it lights up (sometimes) since I haven't pulled the bulb yet. It does have a slight parasitic drain that can pull the battery down in about 5-6 days that I haven't been able to track down, so as a Band Aid, I installed one of those quick disconnects on the battery ground side.

About 6 months ago, the ignition cylinder wouldn't shut off the truck any more; I'd turn it, and nothing. I'd turn it back to "Run" and off again several times, and it would shut down. Also, the key got stuck a couple of times. A friend that's an ASE mechanic replaced the lock cylinder for me.

Since the cylinder was replaced (maybe no connection to anything else) if I'm not super careful when I shut the truck off, it's not really off; I can see the radio still has power. I move the key maybe 1/64", and it goes off.

Now for the really puzzling part. I don't drive the truck every day, and with the rains lately, it can sit for 2 weeks at a time, so I keep the battery disconnected. I reconnect it, and she fires right up with a few pumps of the gas pedal. First thing I notice, no power to the radio any more. Also, the check engine light is out, and stays out. Go to the store (5 miles), shut down, come out and fire it back up, still no radio, but after a minute, the check engine light comes on. Yesterday, same drill, reconnect the battery, fire it up, and radio comes on as well as the check engine. Both keep working with several stops and about an hour of driving. The radio power lead is secured well to the keyed ignition portion of the fuse block; not rigged. This happens repeatedly, and totally random, so far as weather, temperature, etc.

I should add, my confidence level in the tech that replaced the lock cylinder is lower than it was, and he may not have done it properly. He also had installed my aftermarket fuel level gauge, and I found he butchered the power lead - he made it constantly hot (not keyed) and had wrapped the wire around one of the fuses, and jammed it in to hold it. Why? Who knows.

My gut tells me something in the ignition/steering column is shorting, but shorts don't clear themselves.

Thoughts and suggestions are very welcome.

Jerry

[J Knight]

It sound like your ignition switch is slightly out of adjustment since the new(and tighter) cylinder was installed. Just a guess but I would try adjusting the ignition switch. It also sounds like your current draw must be the aftermarket fuel gauge wired to constant hot, I would find a switched and fused power source for it.

[LuvNLife]

Originally Posted by J Knight

It sound like your ignition switch is slightly out of adjustment since the new(and tighter) cylinder was installed. Just a guess but I would try adjusting the ignition switch. It also sounds like your current draw must be the aftermarket fuel gauge wired to constant hot, I would find a switched and fused power source for it.

Sorry; should have been more clear about the fuel gauge - it's been replaced and rewired properly to a switched connection.

Any thoughts on how to adjust the cylinder? The start, accy and run positions work fine now; it's just that occasional super-slight movement I have to do to ensure the power is actually off.

Thanks,

Jerry

[J Knight]

Originally Posted by LuvNLife

Sorry; should have been more clear about the fuel gauge - it's been replaced and rewired properly to a switched connection.

Any thoughts on how to adjust the cylinder? The start, accy and run positions work fine now; it's just that occasional super-slight movement I have to do to ensure the power is actually off.

Thanks,

Jerry

The cylinder isn't adjustable. A rod connects the cylinder to the ignition switch mounted on the top of the steering column. The switch has slotted mounting holes to adjust or fine tune to the correct detent positions. If the position is fine now the switch itself could be worn.