Door striker plate "reinforcements"?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

A plate fits behind each door jam for mounting the door striker plate. Few questions please.

1. What are these called? Nothing like correct terminology. How about door striker plate reinforcements, plates, brackets, supports or backing plates? Couldn't find them on LMC.

2. A sealant was used where the plate contacts the sheet metal @ all four corners. Any recommendations for a sealant?

3. My plate on the RH side has an "R" engraved on it. Near as I can tell these are interchangeable, and not even a right side up. Safe to say they're interchangeable?


Other than that, I see/measure three variances for the shape in this pair. None seem to involve placement. For whatever it's worth, I had four shim plates top and bottom on the LH side, three each on the RH side.

Thank you

[Grumpy old man]

1) Door striker brackets

2) body seam sealer

3) interchangeable , unseen no need to have a matched set if they work for you

4) 3-4 shims ? How did the door look gap wise ,if it was too far forward the easy fix was to add shims to make the door close and latch rather than readjust the door ,bad body man they should have adjusted the door and not just add shims to "make it work " and a stack of shims looks shoddy .my trucks have NO shims .

[dfwright]

They came from the factory that way. Mine has three shims on 3 places, and 4 shims on the 4th spot, from the factory.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by dfwright

They came from the factory that way. Mine has three shims on 3 places, and 4 shims on the 4th spot, from the factory.

Your shims must differ from mine. Mine have two holes a shim.

[dfwright]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Your shims must differ from mine. Mine have two holes a shim.

Mine too. Top and bottom, right and left door strikers, four locations, total.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by dfwright

Mine too. Top and bottom, right and left door strikers, four locations, total.

I see. They needed a bit of a tilt.

[sprint_9]

Mine had 3 shims on both sides top and bottom, untouched from the factory. And my door gaps did leave a lot to be desired.

[Grumpy old man]

Maybe lazy GM line workers ? These trucks were never ment to last this long or be this popular . They are work trucks until now

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Thanks for the responses. Really, my LH side to fender was better than the RH side, which had fewer shims. The RH side is too close to the fender, IMO. Since you asked about the alignment I'll bore you with some photos of the LH side. I forgot to take pics of the RH before I removed everything. No big, I'll get it later. The RH side was apparently damaged (camper mirror ooops), but I have no reason to believe this isn't factory. You have me curious about no shims Grumps. Maybe there's a better way.

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[Grumpy old man]

When I did the rockers on my trucks I also did A and B lower pillars and using a number of ratchet straps a few wide paddle pry bars and a BFH I got the gaps pretty good for an old guy . We used to be happy to get the gaps the thickness of a paint paddle now I want them the thickness of a 3"cut off wheel as long as the door still swings correctly .it takes time and I have cut them back apart twice to get them better before ,no fun .

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Speak of the RH fender being too close to the door, it's also too close to the hood near the rear corner. Close nothing, it rubbed the paint off.

I'm no expert, but I'd say the RH fender needs to rotate clockwise by 1/10".....Reference the front bolt where the fender mounts to the cowl - the edges line up perfectly on the LH fender and cowl. The RH side is above that point by 1/10". In fact, they used two washers to raise the outer cowl. Go figure, the tip of the bolt busted. Between that and the wasted cushions, I'm hoping she lines up with the rebuild. Course I'm assuming there's room to tilt these fenders. I've never removed a door or fender.

Sweet paint job on my truck right? They painted near everything but the tailgate....latches, emblems, everything under the cowl, glass etc. etc.. Must have cost $200 in 89, minimum. Dealer between the original owner and I had it done.

It's not all bad, trust me. Something to be said for low exposure to the elements. I haven't even washed the body in 20 years. It never sees rain, Garaged, rarely driven, driest state. Other than a half job of window cleaner on some chrome for the pic, this is as the vents were pulled from the truck. I'm having them "restored" anyway. Really, they only need rubber, I can do the chrome. Say are striker plates for vent window handles standard? Obviously this doesn't have one. I didn't think to look at the other vent, which is packed away.

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[Grumpy old man]

The fun part is once you install all new body mounts all your measurements will change and then all the fun starts ,fitting ,sanding ,filler ,more fitting and sanding again , more filler,primer more sanding and sanding and sanding and once it all looks perfect and fits great spend another week priming and sanding and sanding and sanding ,then when your arms now resemble Popeye ,go sand and prime some more ....The difference between a decent paint job and a fantastic paint job is how much time your willing to put into prep . It pretty much costs the same in materials between a decent or fantastic paint job the true difference is in the actual amount of labor you invest . That's why so many guys are sporting patina , very little labor invested .

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

The fun part is once you install all new body mounts all your measurements will change and then all the fun starts ,fitting ,sanding ,filler ,more fitting and sanding again , more filler,primer more sanding and sanding and sanding and once it all looks perfect and fits great spend another week priming and sanding and sanding and sanding ,then when your arms now resemble Popeye ,go sand and prime some more ....The difference between a decent paint job and a fantastic paint job is how much time your willing to put into prep . It pretty much costs the same in materials between a decent or fantastic paint job the true difference is in the actual amount of labor you invest . That's why so many guys are sporting patina , very little labor invested .

I believe it. I only took pictures because I'd rather have it and not need it. My fear is the body/paint guy won't be willing to put in the time, though he swears (any light any angle).....Alignment is entirely different. If I'm reading you right, other than perfect, what you're saying is you should assemble the body only to remove it again for paint. The other challenge is the body moldings, which this truck never had, never mind sport mirrors. The painter is confident we can do those post paint.

I'd like to do what you're suggesting, including the moldings. I'll bring it up to the painter again. If it costs another $1500 or so for the job that's okay, because I'd rather have it right. The truck will be at his place anyway. He's sure got the room. I need his shop, it's big. That and I make it simple, because I build carts on lock casters for the body less the cowl cover. Need one for my windshield and rear window too. $100 a cart, but I need the space and mobility.
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[elf w/capital T]

71shortbed, holy moly!!! that vent assembly is cleaaannn, I'm rebuilding mine now and sheeesshhh I'm jealous!!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by elf w/capital T

71shortbed, holy moly!!! that vent assembly is cleaaannn, I'm rebuilding mine now and sheeesshhh I'm jealous!!

Thanks. At least you're rebuilding yours. I'm bowing out and will have them done. I believe these just need seals, and 2-3 dings simple worked out I could manage if I had to. Other than that all the chrome is a keeper. Do you know if these vents are supposed to have striker plates for the handles?

[elf w/capital T]

I believe so, both vents i have the peice for the handle when in the locked position

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by elf w/capital T

I believe so, both vents i have the peice for the handle when in the locked position

I see, thanks. Looks like I'm missing at least one. Darn, guess I need to unpack the other vent, see what I've got.