Longer wheel studs

[Heydon]

Hi

Making slow progress on the C10 and having fun.

Truck runs later chevrolet drums and discs- now 5 stud.

I need to fit 10 mm wheel spacers for clearance. This means I need longer wheel studs.

Having removed them and measured them it looks like I have Dorman 610-138 and 610-159 studs. I am unsure if these are "Clipped" versions or not as I don't know what "clipped" actually is.

Dorman don't list a longer version that is exactly the same knurl diameter etc.

Any idea what stud I should use to replace my current ones or do I just need to buy better offset wheels?

Thanks

[61K10]

ck out some studs for drag racing. they are 3" long (you could trim to your length) just a thought.

[jtrichard]

If your are NOT married to the 1/2-20 you could use these and enlarge the holes in the half that take the smaller knurl studs http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-3541-610-182.aspx
"CLIPPED" is a flat side or two on the head yours are NOT clipped

[Heydon]

Thank you both- much appreciated and think that might work.

Taking your suggestions... how would the following alternatives be?

One has same knurl diameter but slightly shorter knurl with longer stud
One has slightly wider knurl diameter and is longer

610-528.1
610-379.1

Can I just double check that my current studs arent clipped and have same style head as the above..pic below.





Thanks again.

[jtrichard]

The 528 is a METRIC with .650 knurl and 1 3/4 under head length (UHL).... The 379 is 1/2-20 with a .620 knurl and UHL of 1-15/16 length BUT it has about 1/4" that is NOT threaded so one or both may not be long enough for your needs .....THE 138s you have now have UHL of 1-17/32 (1-1/2")

[Heydon]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

The 528 is a METRIC with .650 knurl and 1 3/4 under head length (UHL).... The 379 is 1/2-20 with a .620 knurl and UHL of 1-15/16 length BUT it has about 1/4" that is NOT threaded so one or both may not be long enough for your needs .....THE 138s you have now have UHL of 1-17/32 (1-1/2")

Ahhh. Thank you... my error. I swapped digits on one stud. Meant to say...

610 379
610 258!!!


The 379 should have 3.4 mm more than my current stud, which should be ok with an 8mm spacer- just.


Does that sound about right now?

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by Heydon

The 379 should have 3.4 mm more than my current stud, which should be ok with an 8mm spacer- just.
Does that sound about right now?

To me it looks like the 379 even though its longer, has 1/4" less thread because of the "pilot" tip making it effectively the same length or even slightly shorter then what you have now


IF 3.4 mm would get you out far enough then these (or ones like it) may be an option for you instead of the studs http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-1-2-CHRO...5UPoIY&vxp=mtr

[Heydon]

Thanks- for checking and for the advice on the nuts- that's a clever solution! ;-)

I do think the 379 get me 3.175 mm more of thread- but you are right it is close and if the cad is incorrect then I have some spare studs on my hands. ;-)

The Dorman cad drawing that shows the unthreaded end is .21 of an inch leaving 1.75 inches of thread.

My current stud has 1.625 inches of thread.

Going to try those nuts as well and learn from the outcome... had never seen ones like that before.

Much appreciated. ;-)

[old cool]

On my read hubs (drums) for a 2wd, six lug, 1966 gmc, I used Moroso 8 grade racing studs. Obviously needed to cut to appropriately length. Knurls were micro sized bigger than stock studs but worked well with a little muscle.
Double check and compare, but the numbers I show on some old paper work are:
(MOR-46160) size=7/16 - 20 - .560