Door weatherstrip experts?

[MiraclePieCo]

I plan to install fresh door weatherstrip on my '50 3-window tomorrow, but have encountered major disagreements in the orientation of the weatherstrip. Maybe that's why when I did a search the biggest problem DIYers have is not being able to shut their doors after installation!

These two videos depict opposite ways of orienting the strip - one with the long side angled up, the other with the long side pointing toward the cab:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXOXpI1aZ2U

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SajNpDzRTdU

Here are photos of mine - which is right? I must admit that the second photo (long end pointing toward cab) fits the retainer strip much better and requires no half-twist as it rounds the door bottom.

[MiraclePieCo]

Aha, look what I found! The Filling Station video (second one) is accurate, as is my second photo. Excerpts from the shop manual:

[MARTINSR]

The biggest problem with the new rubber is it's reproduction and OEM. As a friend of mine said years ago as he opened a box that came in the mail for his 65 Vette.

"If the place wanted to be honest, instead of saying he catalog Exactly as original they would put Similar to Original, can be used if nothing else is available."

The reproductions are just thicker, denser, so you can put them in perfect and the door will still be hard to shut.

The trick that I have found is don't try to shut them all the way at first. I have even moved the striker out as far as it will go. Shut the door on the new rubber, leave it there a little while, an hour or so then open the door and look to see that the rubber is compressing properly and that there are no "folded" spots where it isn't going in the right direction. If there is a folded over spot, you may be able to fold it properly with masking tape holding it and shut the door again, without completely closing it, with the striker moved out as before. Just be sure that the rubber isn't folded over wrong. And remember, the latch has two positions so you can click it on the first without hitting the second one. I think those original latches were two position, it's been so many years I forget.

Once you know for sure, leave the door like that with it partially closed for a day or more. Then move the striker in a little, and leave the door like that a day or so, then in further, and leave it a day or so. I will do this at least three or four times.

Doing this allows the rubber to "get happy" in his new home and when you finally close it the rubber has been compressed enough so that it works MUCH better than if you had tried from the beginning. It's still hard as hell to close but it's MUCH better than if you had not done this.

Brian

[jweb]

When I used that weatherstrip my doors wouldn't shut. I had to tear it off and start over. You can get the same style that is slightly thinner from a couple of vendors. It costs way more but fits great.

I got mine from Metro Moulded Parts, Part# LP 40-A. I think Steele or Soff Seal has it also, I just cant remember which one.

[OrrieG]

Brian, I think you just saved a lot of use some frustration...
Thank you, as always...

[MARTINSR]

You're very welcome. Now reading it back, I hope it makes sense being it looked like I used a Google translator from Chinese to English.

Brian

[my56chevytruck]

I attempted to use OEM door weatherstripping and had the issues of closing the doors at all. went to Soff Seal and problem solved. a minor adjustment to the closure and all is good.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by jweb

When I used that weatherstrip my doors wouldn't shut. I had to tear it off and start over. You can get the same style that is slightly thinner from a couple of vendors. It costs way more but fits great.

I got mine from Metro Moulded Parts, Part# LP 40-A. I think Steele or Soff Seal has it also, I just cant remember which one.

Thanks for the part number. Boy does it ever cost "way more" - $102 for enough to do both doors!

[MARTINSR]

The money is WELL WORTH it for quality and less troubles. I will be saving that part number to give it a try.

Brian

[mr48chev]

I'm copying Martinsr's post number 3 and printing it and putting it in my things to know book. Weather strip is probably the thing I have had the worse time on on my truck than any other item and I am for sure no expert on that. Thanks. This is one thread we all need to save.

[solidaxel]

Take a look at Steel Rubber also

[MiraclePieCo]

I found this old thread I'd started and thought I'd give it some closure. Forgive me if this info is a repeat for you, as I recently posted this same info on dsraven's door seal thread a few days ago.

Bottom line is the original-style reproduction weatherstrip made it so my doors wouldn't even come close to latching, and I'm far too cheap to spend $100+ on the high-quality door weatherstrip - that's just not the kind of truck I have. I want things more makeshift, as a farmer would have fixed his old hay hauler back in 1962.

So instead of original-style weatherstrip, I ended up buying a couple of rolls of Frost King self adhesive neoprene weatherstrip at my local home improvement store for about $30. Because no glue is required, installation was a 10-minute job.

I think the finished product looks great. And because it's so cheap, I can easily replace it if or when it starts to peel away. No, it's not original and therefore not suitable for restorers - ha ha, on my truck the restoration boat sailed along time ago! The doors required a pretty firm slam to close the first time; I will let them sit a week in the closed position to compress. I haven't driven it yet, but drawing a sheet of paper through the door gaps proves that it's sealing nicely. And if I decide that closing the doors is overly difficult, I can simply go back and buy the next smaller size Frost King.