06-24-2016, 04:03 PM | #1 |
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Location: Alexandria, Ky
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Engine build
I'm starting my build of my '72 I bought in January. I've finally got the money and job security to make it happen, so this is my new toy. I've only removed the intake manifold and the valve covers but what I have seen is not pretty so far at all... The center air passage on the intake manifold is burnt to hell and back and there is a fair amount of carbon build up underneath the intake manifold. Plugging several of the openings under the intake manifold was a mold looking substance that I had never seen before. A mechanic friend told me from the pictures that it was most likely that the previous owner used a lot of starting fluid or ether and it is just a build up of that. The carb is far too oversized as well and I'm sure has been turned up to burn more rich. I'm sure the valves are probably fairly burnt up as well. It appears I'm going to rebuild the entire engine and really check it out and clean it up: I'm mostly interested in looking at the crankshaft. It is not the original engine but a fairly new, low mile, crate motor from Summit; that is what scares me. I will try to get pictures and keep posting updates. Curious what some ideas would be to build up this 350? (assuming the block is in good enough condition)
I don't want anything out of this world, just a nice, properly running engine that can tow a bit if needed on very, very rare occasions. I also know where I can get two 7.3l diesels and a transmission for $800 from a friend of a friend who is a diesel mechanic. Maybe worth checking out? Not sure what I want to do on the engine yet but I've got to repair the brakes and cab first anyhow so until then, I can plan.
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1972 Chevrolet C20 350 crate motor, 700R4 "It's more fun to experience things when you don't know what's going to happen." |
06-24-2016, 09:29 PM | #2 |
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Re: Engine build
Leave the power strokes to the Ford guys. While good motors, they just don't seem right for your type of truck. Find a good running small block for sale and put it in. Sometimes you can buy a GOODWRENCH motor for around $1500 and sometimes cheaper if you shop around. Unless someone put a huge carb on for a crazy reason it is probably not too big just adjusted poorly. Jim
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06-25-2016, 08:28 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
As far as the good wrench engine, I've looked at those many times on Jegs and always been interested but I'm not sure about shelling out that kind of money IF I am able to salvage the block, which I believe I can if I take the time and clean it up. My main reason behind that is the odds are at some point down the road, assuming I don't pick up other projects, I will want a big block engine in this truck. Right now I can justify that sort of spending and really don't have the free spending money yet but in a few years or longer, it is a definite possibility. Posted via Mobile Device |
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06-25-2016, 08:49 AM | #4 |
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Re: Engine build
Get a cool small block and just put it in. Out with the Power strokes.
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06-25-2016, 08:51 AM | #5 |
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Re: Engine build
One thing for sure is you can buy that goodwrench crate engine and have it shipped to your door a lot cheaper than to build a engine for. Although it is fun to build your own engine. I just got done installing the 350 crate engine in my blazer and very happy so far. I did put a cam shaft in the crate engine to give a little more horse power. Good luck
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1972 cheverolet K5 CST Blazer 350/auto/AC/PS/PB/Aux Batt From Medford, Oregon |
06-25-2016, 10:09 AM | #6 | |
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06-25-2016, 10:30 AM | #7 | ||
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Re: Engine build
As much as one of those crate engine cost. Give or take a hundo or so...
Most of your cost is in quality machine work. Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
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06-25-2016, 05:10 PM | #8 |
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Re: Engine build
Just an FYI. You should keep the engine that's in it. If it's original to the truck, no matter what kind of engine you end up installing. I kick myself the 'stock' engines I sold out of cars for a "hotrod" engine. Wish I had them back!!!
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It builds on my intelligence when I make a mistake, Boy am I building on it! '67 C-10,'70 Nova SS |
06-25-2016, 06:15 PM | #9 |
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Re: Engine build
Sadly the engine is not stock I wish it were. It is a crate engine off summit with a one piece seal: I believe the 210 HP but not positive on that.
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1972 Chevrolet C20 350 crate motor, 700R4 "It's more fun to experience things when you don't know what's going to happen." |
06-25-2016, 07:31 PM | #10 |
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Re: Engine build
Pretty much put what you want in it then huh?! The engine that is in it could be sold for few hundred bucks if you buy another without a core charge. Good luck! There are small block Chevy's everywhere!!!LOL
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It builds on my intelligence when I make a mistake, Boy am I building on it! '67 C-10,'70 Nova SS |
06-25-2016, 10:44 PM | #11 |
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Re: Engine build
Check this out, I have one in my truck and love it. It's rated 255 hp with factory fuel injection but with a good carb and headers it'll make 300 hp. It has a lot of low end torque also. You can cut the bosses down on the valve guides and add a bigger cam and make over 400 hp if that is what want.
https://www.summitracing.com/search?...yword=12530283 |
06-25-2016, 10:51 PM | #12 |
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Re: Engine build
Essentially I want something that runs without going broke, lol. Will the L31 on summit mount up to a 700r4 from an '89 truck? I assume so and everything looks in order but yall know better than I.
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1972 Chevrolet C20 350 crate motor, 700R4 "It's more fun to experience things when you don't know what's going to happen." |
06-26-2016, 12:20 AM | #13 | |
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Re: Engine build
Quote:
Will need an electric fuel pump though.
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1967 C10 Suburban 454/TH400/3.07's An Average Joe and His 'Burb: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=775843 |
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06-26-2016, 07:39 AM | #14 |
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Re: Engine build
Anything else I would need to make that work or just an electric fuel pump? If that's all I'd need them that would really be worth some consideration. What about a 383? Assuming the block I have is in reasonable shape and I need it machined out anyway, what would I be looking at price wise for that? I know I've seen kits as cheap as $500 and heard about good ones for around $800
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1972 Chevrolet C20 350 crate motor, 700R4 "It's more fun to experience things when you don't know what's going to happen." |
06-27-2016, 09:53 PM | #15 | |
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Re: Engine build
Quote:
Building a 383 can get quite expensive, machine work and good heads aren't cheap. By kits I take it you mean rotating assemblies if so expect to pay for balancing. A good balanced rotating assembly with a steel crank will probably cost 3 times the prices you mentioned. I'm not trying to scare you off a 383 I have one myself in a S10 and it will make a lot of hp but hp isn't cheap. Actually my 383 is sitting on a stand but I'll get it back in my truck one day, rather work on my C10 right now. |
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06-27-2016, 10:08 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Engine build
Quote:
I'd like to swap out to a manual transmission though and was considering an sm465? Any ideas on what would go well with the 2 piece 350 crate? what do you all run behind it?
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1972 Chevrolet C20 350 crate motor, 700R4 "It's more fun to experience things when you don't know what's going to happen." |
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06-27-2016, 11:17 PM | #17 | |
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Re: Engine build
Quote:
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06-29-2016, 08:51 PM | #18 |
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Re: Engine build
It depends on what gear you have in the rear and what you want to use the truck for. I have a 3.07 gear and run a TCI Street Fighter th350 from summit. If you have 373 gears or lower and don't drive on the interstate much you probably could get away with a th350.
I'm an old school guy and don't know much about the 700r4 trans but I hear a lot of guys on here running them. If I had 373 or higher gear I might would check them out though. |
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