Trailing arm bushings

[ryans69chevy]

I can't seem to get these out. First I tried using a hammer then I drilled out the rubber and got the inner sleeve with rubber out, but couldn't get the outer sleeve out so I took a saw zal and cut it in half which I now think was a bad idea... With the other trailing arm I went and rented a ball joint press and could only get the inner sleeve 3/4 out cuz it would hit part of the clamp.

I've read on here that people use these all the time. So what am I doing wrong??... I know I could just take these into a shop and pay to get them replaced, but I enjoy doing this stuff on my own and figuring it out, but I can't seem to figure this out!

Thanks,
Ryan

[ryans69chevy]

Here is the typical c clamp style ball joint remover. The sleeves I have for it are just a touch too big. They cover the outside of the hole.

[Oldblue68chevy]

I used a little heat from my torch and the rubber insert pretty much pops right out. I put urethane bushings in mine and I think I you need to leave that outer bushing in place.I would think heat will help remove that as well. If you already have the rubber out you may be able to crush the sleeve and get it out that way too.

[summitflier]

I just went the drill route. Drilled about a dozen holes all around the metal core.
I replaced the inner metal sleeves, so I didn't care if they got boogered up.
Also I put a little wheel bearing grease on the new ones to get them in.

[ryans69chevy]

I purchased new rubber bushings so they come with the inner and outer sleeves so I need to remove my existing outer sleeves...

[Rich69shortfleet]

You have to press on the outer shell, not just the inner shell.

But, since you've already got the guts out, just take a chisel and a big hammer and collapse the outer shell. When you press them in, first put the bushings in the freezer overnight and then press them in by pushing on the outer shell. If you are lucky, they will go in with just a few taps from a hammer. They will tighten up when they warm up to the same temp as the arm.

[Shady Rascal]

I use a pretty sadistic air hammer to fold the outer shells inward. Once you get one spot pushed in and the bushing shell is no longer a circle, they all but fall out. You can buy a real righteous air hammer for 100 bucks.

[ryans69chevy]

Alrighty I will try the chisel with a hammer! Air hammer sounds nice, but I don't air... Yet! Thanks!

[NC_John]

Get a torch, propane or a/o, and burn them out. It'll make a lot of smoke but works like a champ.

[everettelane]

I went to oreilly's and picked up this tail pipe adapter 2 1/2" then went to local hardware store and picked up a 1" conduit coupling rigid galvanized and 3 lb hammer laid the trailing arm bushing over the tailpipe adapter and drove out the bushing with coupling worked like a champ about three hits it fell out.

[jjlett69]

I just set mine on fire and let em burn , and they tapped out with no effort once 75% of bushing melted away.

[Shady Rascal]

All the recommendations of using a torch are not gonna help this guy. He's trying to remove the outer steel shell part of the bushing.

[88Ironduke]

I'm picking up what jjlet69 is putting down. Burn out the old bushings, with the rubber bushing out of the way removing the outer shell is a snap. Especially when the tools to get the job the "correct way" are not available. I've done it both ways and both methods are effective. And it sounds the OP doesn't have all the goodies on hand to get the job done without a little creativity. Burn'em out, pound out whats left via punches and large screw drivers. Press in new bushing sets.

Paul

[ryans69chevy]

Well I got them out! Had to be a little creative! I'll try and explain the best way I can as to how I got them out so ppl in the future with this problem might get some ideas.
First from where I left off one of my inner bushings was almost out. It kept hitting the c clamp so I tried the torch which took a longgggggggg time and still was a pain. I finally just took my saw zal and cut the excess off and used the ball joint c clamp again and pressed it on out!
Now I just have to remove the outer sleeve so first I cut the outer sleeve in half. I did this so it would be start moving easier. I then found that my 27mm impact socket fits the diameter of the outer sleeve.

[ryans69chevy]

Then I used the socket as an adapter for the ball joint press and began pressing out the non flanged side which pushes the flanged side out a little bit. Now I used a pry bar to get under the flange so I could remove that side.

[ryans69chevy]

Now I just had to remove the non flanged side which turned out to be pretty easy. This is the basics of how I did it. Hope you can see it alright in the pic. I used my socket again that slid right into the trailing arm.

[ryans69chevy]

I was having trouble with the socket not staying straight so I grabbed a piece of 1/2" plywood to stick in between so it would apply more equal pressure. This method worked for me. It was a lot of steps, but they came out. It was cheaper than taking it into a shop. I will try and post a pic of how they go in. I will most likely try the freezer trick that was mentioned. I won't be able to throw them in for another week or so since I took the arms into a welding shop to have the flanges straightened out a bit. My little hand torch couldn't get the metal hot enough.