Crossmember swap with Engine in place

[62stepside longbox]

Hey everyone, I'm just finishing up rebuilding my '78 crossmember so I should be swapping them out sometime very soon. I have a 261 straight six (same as 235) with the horseshoe front motor mount that attaches to the crossmember. I'm going to attach the mount to the new crossmember the same way it attaches to the current one. I'm trying to avoid pulling the motor out but don't see many options of how to support the motor with the crossmember removed. I could build temporary side mounts or use an engine hoist to hold it or am I just crazy and it would be easier to pull the motor? Any recommendations appreciated, Thanks

[Chevy Fleetside]

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=357610 Look at the way we did this one, and see if you can do it with a 6cyl.

[jtrichard]

IF you are NOT pulling the front clip I would place a 4X4 from fender to fender and chain the front of the engine up to it

[markeb01]

I don't remember if I included any photos, but when I did my suspension swap I simply added a couple of chunks of the donor frame to the old V8 engine mount holes in the front of the motor and let it down on top of the frame (small black Chevy). Then I pulled and swapped the crossmember. Here's my old thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366828

I wouldn't think it would be any more difficult with a 6 cylinder engine.

[62stepside longbox]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=357610 Look at the way we did this one, and see if you can do it with a 6cyl.

Looks like I may have to do something like that, the 2x4 held the weight fine? I don't have an engine hoist but my neighbor has one I can probably borrow.

[62stepside longbox]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

IF you are NOT pulling the front clip I would place a 4X4 from fender to fender and chain the front of the engine up to it

Do you really think that the fenders would hold all that weight? Seems like a lot for body panels

Originally Posted by markeb01

I don't remember if I included any photos, but when I did my suspension swap I simply added a couple of chunks of the donor frame to the old V8 engine mount holes in the front of the motor and let it down on top of the frame (small black Chevy). Then I pulled and swapped the crossmember. Here's my old thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366828

I wouldn't think it would be any more difficult with a 6 cylinder engine.

The front mount is what the motor is sitting on now so if I could borrow an engine hoist then I guess I could lift it up, remove the mount and stick a 4x4 or peice of frame rail under it.

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

Do you really think that the fenders would hold all that weight? Seems like a lot for body panels
.

Engine probably weights about #700? Only looking at half that on front mount (350) and then only half again on each fender (each end of 4X4) about #175...... If you stood on the fender would it hold YOU? I would say yes I know they hold my fat a>> LOL and im about #300


With the 4X4 you wont have anything in your way near the cross member

[62stepside longbox]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

Engine probably weights about #700? Only looking at half that on front mount (350) and then only half again on each fender (each end of 4X4) about #175...... If you stood on the fender would it hold YOU? I would say yes I know they hold my fat a>> LOL and im about #300


With the 4X4 you wont have anything in your way near the cross member

Yeah well I guess that would work but I may be removing front sheet metal so the installation goes easier. But I might try it, thanks for the suggestion

[forestb]

I did it with my 350. By placing a 4x4 across the bottom of the oil pan an putting jack stands on either end. I did it that way while working on installing. When I was not working on it I put jack stands where the side engine mounts usually rest on the cross member. If I were to do it over again I would definitely pull the engine. I had to take out and put back in the cross member so many times to get everything to work right it would have been alot easier to do it without the engine in especially when it came to drilling the new holes. I also dented my oil pan. Plus you can take the opportunity to clean up your frame rails.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

Looks like I may have to do something like that, the 2x4 held the weight fine? I don't have an engine hoist but my neighbor has one I can probably borrow.

that 2x4 was holding up the engine for a week. Just make sure there are no knots or cracks in the piece you use if you go that way.

[Captainfab]

IM it isn't that much work to pull the engine, particularly a I6. With the engine out of the way, the crossmember swap itself would be a whole lot easier, especially in a '60-'62.

[62stepside longbox]

Well I was trying to avoid pulling the engine but it looks like it may be best to so I can drill the crossmember holes much easier and maybe paint the engine. I'll have to think on it for a while

[62stepside longbox]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

IM it isn't that much work to pull the engine, particularly a I6. With the engine out of the way, the crossmember swap itself would be a whole lot easier, especially in a '60-'62.

Well I decided to pull the motor, it will indeed make it easier plus it'll give me the opportunity to clean and paint my engine. Got the radiator, core support, grille support and grille out plus removed all the wiring today. Captainfab, would it be best to unbolt the block from the Bellhousing and leave the Bellhousing + trans in the truck or just pull it all out? Thanks

[Chevy Fleetside]

Pull the trans with it. If it is a manual it will be hard to get the shaft lined up with the clutch to get it back in if the trans is still in the truck. It not impossible just difficult. Much easier if the trans is out. You might as will inspect the clutch while you have it out and change it if need be. That is also easier when out of the truck.

[60chevyjim]

most of the time when I pull engines or install them , I pull them with the trans as a unit .
it seems a lot ezr to me since im allways working by myself.
and I have several project cars n trucks
that im building from 1950 up to 1965 .

[Captainfab]

I agree that dealing with lining up the trans input with the clutch is much easier on the floor. But with these trucks having a crossmember mounted bellhousing, removing the engine and trans together is not so simple. The bellhousing crossmember is in the way. This may work if the trans is a 3 speed, but with a SM420, the trans will have to be removed under the truck. That also means removing the floor hump.

I think I would just pull the engine by itself. It you're careful and don't turn the engine or trans, the splines should line up fairly easily on reinstall.

[62stepside longbox]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

Pull the trans with it. If it is a manual it will be hard to get the shaft lined up with the clutch to get it back in if the trans is still in the truck. It not impossible just difficult. Much easier if the trans is out. You might as will inspect the clutch while you have it out and change it if need be. That is also easier when out of the truck.

I've allready had the trans out before and clutch still has plenty of life left on it. I put a t5 in it, should I pull the shifter off?

Originally Posted by 60chevyjim

most of the time when I pull engines or install them , I pull them with the trans as a unit .
it seems a lot ezr to me since im allways working by myself.
and I have several project cars n trucks
that im building from 1950 up to 1965 .

Do you usually remove the shifter?

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I agree that dealing with lining up the trans input with the clutch is much easier on the floor. But with these trucks having a crossmember mounted bellhousing, removing the engine and trans together is not so simple. The bellhousing crossmember is in the way. This may work if the trans is a 3 speed, but with a SM420, the trans will have to be removed under the truck. That also means removing the floor hump.

I think I would just pull the engine by itself. It you're careful and don't turn the engine or trans, the splines should line up fairly easily on reinstall.

Captainfab, I've allready swapped it to a t5 so the clearance issue with the sm420 is non existent now. Since it has a t5 should it be easier to remove it all as one piece?

[padresag]

I would drop the T5 by itself. less hassle putting it all back together
ron

[60chevyjim]

with floor shifters I allways take the shifter off.
to make it ezr

[Captainfab]

With a T5 it is probably doable. Yes you will want to remove the shifter and cover the hole.

Originally Posted by 62stepside longbox

Captainfab, I've allready swapped it to a t5 so the clearance issue with the sm420 is non existent now. Since it has a t5 should it be easier to remove it all as one piece?

[62stepside longbox]

Today I pulled it, removed the shifter, driveshaft and used the head bolts to hook on to.

[60chevyjim]

good deal enjoy your front end conversion .

I bought the stuff to do mine , but its still sitting in the bed of my
4x4 S-10 yard push truck .
I just got my 65 yard drivable with the 6cyl 3spd ..
I am going to pancake my 79 crossmember 2 inches before I put it in .

[62stepside longbox]

Originally Posted by 60chevyjim

good deal enjoy your front end conversion .

I bought the stuff to do mine , but its still sitting in the bed of my
4x4 S-10 yard push truck .
I just got my 65 yard drivable with the 6cyl 3spd ..
I am going to pancake my 79 crossmember 2 inches before I put it in .

Thanks Jim, when you pancake your 79 crossmember what are you going to do for steering?
Won't there be issues?

[60chevyjim]

im going to work with relocating a factory type power steering box and add universal joints to line it up with the steering column.
I have already took out all the coil springs and all the bump stops .
I drove it around the yard with it like this .
the front crossmember got caught on a tree root ..
so now I have some used 6cyl stock front springs with 1 and a half loops cut off using a
4" cut off wheel and a angle grinder
and some 96 impala SS lowering springs in the back of it .
it looks good and it rides good now .. but I am going to make it lower .

[cheavy metal]

how much lower did the impala springs bring down your rear end?