Is this a good choice? Truck Purchase

[tfielder1]

Hi guys, new to the forum. First post. I live in Cincinnati and I currently have a passion for motorcycles. I have my first child on the way and I am trying to sell one of my bikes to buy something a little safer. I want to do a restomod low budget lm7 swap on a 68-72 short bed truck but I am brand new to this game. My dad has owned his own mechanic and body shop all his life so I have a good reference, I am mechanically inclined, master at the school of google searching, but my dad is 3 states away and restomods are not really his passion. So I ask of the forum for advice on my first purchase. After much looking I have all but handed the cash over on this truck and I want some opinions on whether I am getting a good deal and if this is a solid truck? I want to start bare bones so every part can be considered as I go. The price for the truck without the engine is 3k and I think he is firm. I do see a bit of rust on the rockers but do you think this is going to be a good choice or does anyone see a problem here? several pics in the post and I would appreciate trained eyes.

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/5643562733.html

Thanks for the advice. I realize by posting this someone could jump in and swipe the truck from under my nose but hopefully yall are good people and if that happens it was not ment to be.

[frenchy51]

Looks like a good truck to me. Rust does not seem to be extensive. I don't think you could go wrong at his asking price but I'd try to get it for less. No harm in trying. Go for it and welcome to the Forum!

[cypressbog]

Be the first with $3K and it could be yours.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I see rust and bondo on the DS door, bring one of those soft flexible magnets.

You don't exactly live where nice trucks are and the black primer is even more suspicious. Check the door bottoms, above the rear fender wells, the fender bottoms front and back, inner and outer rockers, and even pull the top of the windshield rubber down (this isn't anywhere near a show truck, but ask the owner first) to look for rust. Open the cowl vents inside the cab and look inside them, they will be coated in surface rust, just look for holes. For some reason he shows a ton of pics of what looks to be a slightly pitted frame (normal for your location) with likely some kind of rust converter coating on it, but leaves out all the typical body rust areas. Check where all the cross members meet the frame for rust and look over the rear trailing arms at the top, they are two pieces and will start to separate from rust.

I grew up in NY. I hated trying to find a decent vehicle up there. The older I get, the more I'm willing to wait and pay more $ for a classic that needs almost no bodywork, than a cheap truck that needs everything.

[tfielder1]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I see rust and bondo on the DS door, bring one of those soft flexible magnets.

You don't exactly live where nice trucks are and the black primer is even more suspicious.

I hear ya man, a quick search on craigslist turned up a bunch of rust buckets. One thing I have been considering is one of the newer square body c10s. They dont cost as much and have less rust.. I would be just has happy with the look so I am trying to keep my options open. I just want to make sure I get a solid base to start with so its not a loss on my investment.

[old Chevy guy]

Looks pretty good in the pictures but Craig's list cars always do. Go see it up close and study it hard also double check and make sure it's really a short bed and hasn't had the frame shortened . That would cut the value by a lot. Good luck and let us know what happens.

[jeffahart]

Get a cheaper truck that has no primer or fillers. Get a good old rust bucket with original paint so you can see the real deal with rust. I get the feeling that primer and filler are being used to hide, and not fix, issues.

[Coley]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Get a cheaper truck that has no primer or fillers. Get a good old rust bucket with original paint so you can see the real deal with rust. I get the feeling that primer and filler are being used to hide, and not fix, issues.

Usually that goes the other way.... cost wise, usually they aren't cheaper.
California offers a pretty distinct advantage on the body condition thing so up in the 'rust belt' you tend to go for the lesser of evils and this one doesn't look too bad....but it should still be investigated.

All Good
Coley

[Ken B]

All great advice, If its close by I see no harm in at least going to look at it. It doesn't look too bad in the pics.. Granted, it could be worse, but it might be much better in person. For a Craigslist ad I'd say the guy has provided more pics than most people do.

[Coley]

Originally Posted by Ken B

All great advice, If its close by I see no harm in at least going to look at it. It doesn't look too bad in the pics.. Granted, it could be worse, but it might be much better in person. For a Craigslist ad I'd say the guy has provided more pics than most people do.

...bear in mind that almost all of these trucks have 'some' filler or bodywork in them...restorative, repair or otherwise.
Investigate the spid in the glovebox to review how the truck came originally? Is it truly and original a fleetside/shorty?...or was it a stepside? or LWB?
Spend time looking at the truck, dress in work clothes, take a piece of cardboard with you so you can lay and investigate under the truck from both sides and the back.
How is the cab above the windshield?...is rust starting to show there?...look above the mirror inside the truck. These are really bad spots to repair if they start to go.
Regardless, this takes a few minutes (...at least) but its worth it...and more importantly, it will clarify if this is the truck for you in your intuition once you've fully investigated it.
Don't 'kick the tires' and lean down to look under it for 5-7 seconds....this is what most guys do...and then how most guys end up in trouble.
(note: ...while you are looking/investigating...don't involve yourself too much in conversation with the owner...this will distract you. You'll know you are doing a thorough job if the seller gets bored and goes off to do something else for a few minutes)

Also: don't extensively disparage and dismiss the truck in front of the owner while negotiating...this is bush league, amateurish buying behavior. Be honest if you think it needs more work than you can handle and be honest about where you would like to come in at 'cost wise'. If you are respectful of his situation you are far more likely to come away with the truck at a reduced price than if you go in there marginalizing the truck and....essentially him in the process.

My two bits.
All Good
Coley

[Dave in Ozark]

Originally Posted by Coley

...bear in mind that almost all of these trucks have 'some' filler or bodywork in them...restorative, repair or otherwise.
Investigate the spid in the glovebox to review how the truck came originally? Is it truly and original a fleetside/shorty?...or was it a stepside? or LWB?
Spend time looking at the truck, dress in work clothes, take a piece of cardboard with you so you can lay and investigate under the truck from both sides and the back.
How is the cab above the windshield?...is rust starting to show there?...look above the mirror inside the truck. These are really bad spots to repair if they start to go.
Regardless, this takes a few minutes (...at least) but its worth it...and more importantly, it will clarify if this is the truck for you in your intuition once you've fully investigated it.
Don't 'kick the tires' and lean down to look under it for 5-7 seconds....this is what most guys do...and then how most guys end up in trouble.
(note: ...while you are looking/investigating...don't involve yourself too much in conversation with the owner...this will distract you. You'll know you are doing a thorough job if the seller gets bored and goes off to do something else for a few minutes)

Also: don't extensively disparage and dismiss the truck in front of the owner while negotiating...this is bush league, amateurish buying behavior. Be honest if you think it needs more work than you can handle and be honest about where you would like to come in at 'cost wise'. If you are respectful of his situation you are far more likely to come away with the truck at a reduced price than if you go in there marginalizing the truck and....essentially him in the process.

My two bits.
All Good
Coley

Well put Coley

[Grumpy old man]

Buy it before it's gone , but make sure it's not a cut down long bed , everything else can be fixed . There's not exactly a bunch of 72 short bed builders laying around in Ohio and it wouldnt last very long around here at that price , offer $3,000 with the engine .for the extra $500 put the 400 engine in and drive it .


Just one question is it really a great idea to buy a project truck with the first born on its way ? These projects take time ,money and a large enough garage for your project while your building it . There are no low budget 72 short bed builds .

[Gromit]

That is wise advice regarding trying to take on a project truck with a newborn on the way. I haven't even done a full build and just the time to do each little piece of my rust-free 1970 C10 always seems to take three and sometimes eight or ten times longer than I estimate. Mostly because you get it apart in one area and think well, might as well do it right and do this other thing too because I don't want to do this part over again. So I think that is partly what is meant by no low budget builds - it just costs what it costs in both time and money and if you are planning to drive the truck with your family members it makes having a safe truck even more important..and optimum safety means no short cuts.

Personally I would just buy or lease a new base model Chevy and drive the best deal you can with the dealer; that way all your time can go into work and fun with the family. Then once the kid gets to be a teenager and thus impossible to be with - then get the project truck.. :-) (partly joking)..

p.s the only other thing I would suggest is be sure the wife gives her blessing to the project truck beforehand..because it will be impossible to get her on board with it later.

[cypressbog]

Here's another thought. Get a Blazer or Suburban since your a family man now.

[ck5566]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Buy it before it's gone , but make sure it's not a cut down long bed , everything else can be fixed . There's not exactly a bunch of 72 short bed builders laying around in Ohio and it wouldnt last very long around here at that price , offer $3,000 with the engine .for the extra $500 put the 400 engine in and drive it .


Just one question is it really a great idea to buy a project truck with the first born on its way ? These projects take time ,money and a large enough garage for your project while your building it . There are no low budget 72 short bed builds .

I will only change one thing Grumpy said. There is NO low budget build for ANY let me say it again ANY restore project for any of these trucks 67-72 especially any truck from past owners (PO) with there stupid ideas for "lets just keep it running" parts swapping and "well its close enough to fitting" thing. Ask me how I know, I have a 68 C10 that FITS right in that category, my trucks asking price was 3750 I bought it for 2500 and at this time I have spent about 3000 or so in just getting it BACK to stock, and the rockers haven't even been worked on yet that will be another 500 to 1000.

I also will say with primer'd trucks use two magnets one being thin as a business card and a bigger one to get a sense of how thick the Bondo is.

[custom10nut]

Check the Craigslist listings for the larger southern cities. There are a few every now and then on the areas I look at regularly. If you find one someplace ask a board member in the area to look at it. It may sound like a pain, but you won't be paying "northern" prices for a "southern" truck (I grew up in northern Michigan), and you won't have to go through the pain and expense of fixing a covered up botch job. I agree with all the caution. You want to avoid paying for the sellers engine build put into a polished rust heap.

[Grumpy old man]

Buy running driving trucks SOUTH of I-40

Buy rusty parts trucks NORTH of I-40

You could save yourself a world of pain and considerable $$$

But unless your banking ^ of $50,000.00 a year it just may not be a good idea to buy any classic car or truck that needs work with a newborn on the way ,especially the first one ! Just my own Grumpy old opinion ! You won't have 10 minutes of free time to work on any hobby . And a almost 50 year old truck isn't quite the right vehicle to use as a daily driver with a newborn baby .

[weedoublewide]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Buy running driving trucks SOUTH of I-40

Buy rusty parts trucks NORTH of I-40

You could save yourself a world of pain and considerable $$$

But unless your banking ^ of $50,000.00 a year it just may not be a good idea to buy any classic car or truck that needs work with a newborn on the way ,especially the first one ! Just my own Grumpy old opinion ! You won't have 10 minutes of free time to work on any hobby . And a almost 50 year old truck isn't quite the right vehicle to use as a daily driver with a newborn baby .

Ditto....at one end of the spectrum you'll have a brand new baby...at the other you'll have a family member struggling to make its way around the retirement home. In the end game its like having two kids.

Check out searchtempest.com it does a mass search of craigslist and some other sites...find yourself a project that's not demanding but meets your needs at this point in time.


Just food for thought as well, why not get a family vehicle, something that's newer, safer, 5 star crash rating. you know the works. Then in a few years when things have calmed down get yourself a vehicle to work on. One, this will give you time to look and find out what you want. Two, you can save some money( from the kid) lol.

In the end, you do whats best for you and your family man.


Good Luck!

[mike16]

what kind of bikes are you trying to unload? british? BMW? old? Italian? what?

[tutone]

Looks like from the pics , the back cab mount is still riveted to the frame. Could be a shortbed frame swap with a longbed cab, though. At least you will be starting with what looks like a swb builder. I would pounce if it was in my wheelhouse. Patch panels are sold everyday and the door bottoms look pretty solid as well. A lot of work to do but a good start.

[BILT4ME]

Place your balls in her purse and get a good used Toyota Sienna (or Dodge Caravan).
You will no longer have time to work on a project for the next 15 years.
Your money and time will be used for all things kid.

[midniteblues]

The only way too know is too go.

That's my saying

Don't forget a GOOD flashlite.

With the $$$ spent on Diapers,formula and all the extra "necessary"things your wife/girl will need kids are not cheap....
Just wait till you get the delivery bill

Buy her a good safe 4 door. And you drive a/the junker. That's the way it always works for me.

You "could" build a awesome truck with all the $ a kid costs.

Love and care for her relentlessly....child support is a killer for the guy.

If Ya have much dough get the truck if it's good

[Tynee]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I see rust and bondo on the DS door, bring one of those soft flexible magnets.

You don't exactly live where nice trucks are and the black primer is even more suspicious. Check the door bottoms, above the rear fender wells, the fender bottoms front and back, inner and outer rockers, and even pull the top of the windshield rubber down (this isn't anywhere near a show truck, but ask the owner first) to look for rust. Open the cowl vents inside the cab and look inside them, they will be coated in surface rust, just look for holes. For some reason he shows a ton of pics of what looks to be a slightly pitted frame (normal for your location) with likely some kind of rust converter coating on it, but leaves out all the typical body rust areas. Check where all the cross members meet the frame for rust and look over the rear trailing arms at the top, they are two pieces and will start to separate from rust.

I grew up in NY. I hated trying to find a decent vehicle up there. The older I get, the more I'm willing to wait and pay more $ for a classic that needs almost no bodywork, than a cheap truck that needs everything.

Some real solid advice here. I live an hour and a half south of you. I'm familiar with the market in this area, and with common problem areas for these trucks, having driven a couple different ones over the last 15 years or so. Everything Jesse says above is dead on.

With all that said, to answer the question you asked, if the condition is accurately represented by the pics, $3K without the motor is probably reasonable (fair for both parties). If you are wanting to learn how to rebuild an engine, you'd probably be in "fair for both parties" territory paying him an additional $500 for that 400. Check the numbers on it, make sure it really is what he says it is.

Last piece of advice: He makes claims like "Almost finished, just needs paint." Anybody can tell by looking at the photos that you wouldn't put paint on that truck without quite a bit more body work, so it makes me question everything else he claims, too.

I'll be coming through your way tomorrow afternoon. If you want me to stop and take a look at it, just for a second set of eyes, shot me a private message.

[mr48chev]

Mixed bag of reviews there.

As far as the truck goes that looks like a pretty solid truck outside of the drivers door skin but I'd go prepared to slide under it and take some time doing some serious looking if I was intending to buy it. Even to the point of taking along a mat or sheet of cardboard to lay on under the truck as you never know what is under them when you go to look at them,

Myself I'll take a solid and straight body, good glass and usable interior over a running engine any day. It isn't out of the question to drop a good running engine and matching trans in that truck in one day and drive it off the same day.

Trucks vs cars for family, I'm not a good one to go to there as I bought an ElCamino the day my first born was born as a family car and in those days we put him on a "pallet" behind the bucket seats while going down the road when he was little. With the requirements for child safety seats the front seat of a truck can get pretty full now though. You didn't say but I think the key might be if your lady has another vehicle that serves as the "family" vehicle. Then the truck makes good sense and if you can sell a bike and get into it without borrowing that makes good sense. No payments trump a lot of things in this world.

[derotoreut]

Did anyone else who read this CL ad notice the same as me? Look what he says at the end,

"Text is best as I'm a busy person no trades no more pictures if u want see more come look at it don't call or text unless your a serious buyer no time for BS if it don't sale I'll fix myself and put out for $10k don't matter to me these truck are hard to find in this condition"

It just kills me that people write ads like this in hopes that their truck will sell? Or should I say "Sale". They're not even smart enough to write simple want ad. It's bad enough that they have really poor grammar, but yet they need to add their touch of arrogance. After all… No time for BS he says. Good luck working with this person.