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10-04-2003, 06:40 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sebastopol Miss.
Posts: 169
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Whats an easy to........
I'm fixing to be doing some cab swapping and need to find out the best way to lift cab off frame? It's hard to find friends when your doing something like this around here.I've got an A frame that i can use but am wondering how or where to lift from?
Thanks Jeff
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EXPERIMENTAL STAGES OF SANITY _____________________________ Run whatcha brung, and hope you brung enuff |
10-04-2003, 07:02 PM | #2 |
Robert Olson Transport
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: recent transplant to NC USA
Posts: 20,310
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you can use rope or one of them material load binders to make a sling and lift it up from the roof through the door openings
the truck load binders have a racheting thing anyway on em to make it easier to lift with
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Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!! |
10-07-2003, 02:45 AM | #3 |
A$$ deep into trucks
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Central Illinois,USA
Posts: 249
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'Bout the easiest way I've found is with some old seatbelts.
The webbing is more than strong enough to handle the weight of a BARE cab. What I do is gut the cab, and attach the seatbelts on the UNDERSIDE of the floor right through the existing seatbelt holes, bring them up the back of the cab, and criss-cross over to the opposite side of the cab, and attach to the upper door hinge pad. I usually put heavy padding at the lower rear of the cab, to protect the belts from the sharp edges. It takes about 6 belts in all, assuming you can get the long non-retractible type from mid '60's cars. When ya get that far, just find the balance point, and lift with your chain hoist hanging from your A-frame. I've seen a few guys try it with a 2X12 run thruogh the open windows, with the doors still on, but it can kink your doors and window frames pretty easy. Same for just the cab, going through the door openings. (up against the roof pinch weld) Another way is to cross the belts from the rear points mentioned INSIDE the cab, and go to the lower hinge pad. then use a cherry picker through the door opening. 'Course if ya got a buddy at the local tire/lube store that will stay late on a Fri. or Sat. night, you could just lift from the rockers with the shop's 4-post, and roll the old frame out, and the new frame under! LOL! (or set it on a trailer) Mike
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hardrock2 |
10-07-2003, 11:13 AM | #4 |
Recovering Truck Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Orleans, NE USA
Posts: 1,883
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I use 4" nylon straps (available at truck stops everywhere). They have varried ratings around 8,000 pounds and are 30 feet long. I just run 2 of them through the cab, above the doors, tie a knot in the straps and lift away. The 4" straps won't damage the drip rails as easy as something narrower.
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67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska |
10-07-2003, 11:18 AM | #5 |
Life is Good !
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Hollister, Ca.
Posts: 1,992
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I used a boom truck ! :p
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'72 Chevy C10 4x4 shortbed "Project" '71 Chevy C10 2wd longbed "partsrunner" '91 Chevy Burb 4x4 "kidrunner" '14 Honda Accord Sport "commuter" |
10-07-2003, 06:07 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sebastopol Miss.
Posts: 169
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Thanks for the info , I've got plenty of those 4 in. starps around here . I'll use those.
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EXPERIMENTAL STAGES OF SANITY _____________________________ Run whatcha brung, and hope you brung enuff |
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