Intake manifold gasket change....part 2

[Chrispbrown36]

After searching for a vacuum leak for a while now I have decided to pull the intake and valve covers off to clean it all up and reseal it all. Just making a list up of what all to grab. So far I have....1)intake gasket set (Fel-Pro part number 93317) 2) valve cover gaskets (fel-pro part number VS 50088 R) 3) new thermostat and gasket 4) sealant
Last time I used the copper Permatex sealant, should I go with something else? reading through some older posts, I see people talking about sealing around the ports but no one mentions a specific sealant to do this with...can I used the same sealant I use on the ends (as in the copper sealant) or should I use something else? Did I miss anything that I should change out while I am at it?

[Chrispbrown36]

Add to that list.....5) oil and filter for an oil change 6) coolant.

[cadillac_al]

I saw a thread somewhere lately where a guy had a vacuum leak due to severely mis-matched intake gaskets. It was obvious by looking at it. If your gaskets match up nicely you should be good with some RTV on the ends; I always use a little smear of rtv around the water jackets too.

[Dead Parrot]

New radiator and heater hoses.
If not already replaced as part of your leak searching, new vacuum hoses.
New fuel filter if it is in the parts you are pulling off to replace gaskets.
Might consider new distributor cap, rotor and wires.
And a new distributor gasket if not part of the kit.
And while the distributor is out, good time to check the vacuum advance pot for leak and function.
Make sure the manifold port connector behind the carb/FI unit matches the number of vacuum connections you need. Easy to replace while everything is apart. Good chance to eliminate any T connectors there.

[Eyegore]

All of you missed the obvious, I can't believe it!!!!
A case of beer and a few friends who tell you your doing it wrong - duh!!!!

[truckin 79]

How about some paint to make things look purdy. If you are going to all that trouble might as well degrease and paint parts up a little. Might be your one and only chance to do that.

[TrailerTrash]

might aswell replace the carb gasket while you are at it.

and maybe the hose going to the brake booster/check valve. they are usually rock hard

something to make valve cover jobs go smooth is a stud kit. instead of bolts you put studs in and use nylox nuts. ill never use bolts again

[Chrispbrown36]

Everything is going to get de-greased well but not sure on the paint. It's a TBI so no carb gasket but I will probably go ahead and rebuild the TBI while I am at it. The valve covers are center bolt so I don't believe I can go with studs...or at least I have never seen them.
I do have a question about a check valve though. The vacuum line coming from the vacuum storage canister runs up to the top center of the firewall and goes into a three-way check valve. One line coming off goes to the a fitting on the back of the intake (not sure what this is) and the other is capped off. Is it necessary to have the check valve there? Or can I just run a hose straight from the vacuum canister to the fitting on the back of the intake?

[Chrispbrown36]

This is the fitting on the back of the intake....


This is the check valve I was talking about...one line runs to the above fitting and the other runs to the hvac vents.....

[Dead Parrot]

Bit of a guess: Check valve maybe to hold vacuum on the various vacuum pots that hold the climate control doors in the desired position. Otherwise, when you romp on it, the pots loose vacuum and go to whatever the zero vacuum position is.

[Chrispbrown36]

Strange thing....yesterday I replaced some vacuum lines, nothing looked too bad but figured since I had the hose might as well do it. Changed out the line from the vacuum canister to the check valve, replaced the line going from the EGR solenoid to the EGR valve, and while I was at it decided to put the vacuum line back from the smog pump to the throttle body (hadn't been there since I bought the truck). I was also doing some brake work on the daily driver, so I didn't get a chance to run the truck. Few hours later I had to get some parts for the daily driver and took the truck. Not a single SES light and the thing idled a lot better. The idle was still a bit high but not nearly as high as it was before. I don't know that the smog pump had anything to do with it...but damnit I am afraid to disconnect it now! ha ha