Pics of my 53 nearing completion

[chuckmc8]

My 53 build is getting close so I thought Id share a few pics. Its on a 90 S10 frame with a 2004 LS 5.3 and 4l60e. Standard S10 Diff with 3:73 gears. BOSS 338 rims with 20 x 10 rear and 20 x 8 fronts. The bed is a 54 and up of course, and I used the steel S10 floor in it. It has Classic Industries gauges, Old Air AC, Tilt column with Lokar shifter and Lokar floor parking brake. Still have to do clean up, put the covering on the wiring, install the fulton visor and power windows. This was the day of the front end alignment journey

Here's my philosophy on car and truck builds after 40 years of this hobby:
1. Some people will like nothing about it. Thats OK, its not built for them.
2. Most people will find something to like about it, even if they don't care for the wheels, paint, or whatever.
3. True car guys appreciate the effort and know what it takes to complete a project, and that all projects drag out and cost more than first thought.
4. If everyone likes everything about your project, you either spent waaaayyy too much money on it or you are really playing it safe. Trying new things advance the hobby.

[chuckmc8]

SAME question every time "What color you gonna paint it"? I says "Lime green". After a few awkward seconds they usually say "I think Id just leave it like that" Sounds good to me

[mongocanfly]

Chuck..put me down in" liking nearly everything about it category"haha...looks real nice..

[nvrdone]

paint ? who needs paint !! doesn't mane em run faster !!

[4544speed]

WOW. I really like the stance and the wheel/tire fitment- "perfect" in my book. I kinda like the lime green idea

[joedoh]

great looking truck!

Originally Posted by chuckmc8

SAME question every time "What color you gonna paint it"? I says "Lime green". After a few awkward seconds they usually say "I think Id just leave it like that" Sounds good to me

haha good one! I seem to get a mix, guys who just love it and guys who are too in love with the term "rat rod". the second are the ones who bend my ear with "what I would have done is.." I let them finish and then watch them go get in their refrigerator appliance camry or other 4 door family sedan.

[av8tr33337]

Very nice job on the truck. Thats pretty close to what I have in mind for mine.

I'm doing an S10 chassis swap but using an 84 Camaro drivetrain with 305, 700r4 and camaro rear end. The rear end is about 60 inches in length (That's close to the stock width of the advance design 3100's but that would make it about 8 inches wider than the s10 front)

Im curious if you ran spacers behind the front wheels and if not, do you remember what the backspacing is??? I assume you are running a 2 wheel drive differential?

The reason I ask is because I was wanting to run 8 or 10 inch wheels on the back and 8 inch up front. I don't want the fronts to seem awkwardly narrow in relation to the rears yet I don't want to use front wheels with a backspacing so radical, that from the street they, appear deeper than the ones in back. I'll probably have to throw the bed back on and do some figuring for myself but any preliminary input would be appreciated from anyone why wants to chime in. Thanks for your time and for sharing your truck pics.

[xaircav]

When the picture popped up I first thought it was an Icon Thriftmaster. It looks great as is. I get the same paint questions about mine. Nice job, tastefully done.

[Advanced Design]

Chuck, great job on the build. And I really appreciate your comments here. Well said!

Originally Posted by chuckmc8

Here's my philosophy on car and truck builds after 40 years of this hobby:
1. Some people will like nothing about it. Thats OK, its not built for them.
2. Most people will find something to like about it, even if they don't care for the wheels, paint, or whatever.
3. True car guys appreciate the effort and know what it takes to complete a project, and that all projects drag out and cost more than first thought.
4. If everyone likes everything about your project, you either spent waaaayyy too much money on it or you are really playing it safe. Trying new things advance the hobby.

[slammed57]

looks great, nice wheel choice

[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by av8tr33337

Very nice job on the truck. Thats pretty close to what I have in mind for mine.

I'm doing an S10 chassis swap but using an 84 Camaro drivetrain with 305, 700r4 and camaro rear end. The rear end is about 60 inches in length (That's close to the stock width of the advance design 3100's but that would make it about 8 inches wider than the s10 front)

Im curious if you ran spacers behind the front wheels and if not, do you remember what the backspacing is??? I assume you are running a 2 wheel drive differential?

The reason I ask is because I was wanting to run 8 or 10 inch wheels on the back and 8 inch up front. I don't want the fronts to seem awkwardly narrow in relation to the rears yet I don't want to use front wheels with a backspacing so radical, that from the street they, appear deeper than the ones in back. I'll probably have to throw the bed back on and do some figuring for myself but any preliminary input would be appreciated from anyone why wants to chime in. Thanks for your time and for sharing your truck pics.

These wheels are a spare set and temporary on this 53. I am basically using them to figure out the backspacing to order custom shop American Racing CL205 Torque Thrust. Ultimately, I want to run a rear wheel with the most "lip" on the outside (less backspace) These Boss 338 have 5.5" backspace. I'm running a 2" spacer now all around. With what I know from these BOSS rims, I can order the AR wheels that basically incorporate the width of the spacer thats on the truck now into all 4 custom backspace wheels and lose the spacers. So, my new rears could have 3.5" BS and a very wide lip on the outside, but the tires stay in exactly the same spot in relation to the fenders. The 2WD S10 rear only works with wheel tubs- I used the S10 Steel bed floor and left the tubs in it. The S10 floor bolts right back to the S10 frame and works great.

In your case, considering the camaro rear is 8" wider than the 2wd S10, you have to make that up in backspacing in the rim. (can't move the tire at all in this size) You will still have to run the wheel tubs. So you have to make up 4" wider width of the axle on each side. Example- if you look at my set up- Take out the 2" spacer (thats 2" of the 4") then, add 2" to the rear wheel backspace (would be 7.5" BS) - look at my rear wheels and picture them with 2" less lip on the outside.
Knowing that- to keep the outer "lip" the same on the front and the back- you have to add the difference in the track from the rear to the front- So (if there were such a thing) a 4" spacer on each side, then the wheel.

Theres a way to make anything work, but I would consider a 2wd or 4wd S10 rear instead of the camaro. They are about $150 in GA. I am running a 3:73, but the 4WD is usually a 3:42 ( a better ratio IMO)

The specs for Boss wheels are on their website and knowing the 2" spacers are there you can use my pics to figure your options. I hope this helps. I can send more pics if you need them. Wheel and tire fitment is tough, and mistakes are expensive.

Only pic of the bed floor I have is early in the build. I love wood beds too, but I throw parts and junk in the back and didn't want to protect the wood.
__________________

[av8tr33337]

Wow that was very helpful. I actually have 2 S10 2WD rear ends I can use. I was going to have to make or buy spring seats to secure the Camaro rear end anyway. The S10 is ready to bolt in right now. The Camaro rear Diff is the same 3.73 ratio as the S10 rears I have or so I have been told. My S10 donor did not have a bed But I've seen a couple others like yours and I think it looks good. I might consider Using the S10 wheel tubs even though I would like to do a wooden bed. floor. I should be able to snag a beat up bed around here fairly cheaply or just find some wheel tubs
. I really appreciate the feedback

[Jesse Z]

Very well done. lol still has the vise grip door handles!

[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by Jesse Z

Very well done. lol still has the vise grip door handles!

I still have to get the power windows installed. (and put the door handles on) I bought the one piece windows to eliminate the vents; and a universal power window kit that "suppose to fit 47-54" chevy pickups (not bashing any brand but it sounds like "Autoloc")
Im just about ready to chunk the power window kit and try another brand. The curvature of the door won't allow the power window motor to be attached at the bottom of the track- so it has to be 'modified' according to the massive 1/2 paragraph instructions available to download online.

And install the Fulton sun visor, amber fog lights, put the covering over the wires in the engine bay and charge the A/C

I took it to the alignment shop Friday and the guy said I had to remove all 4 fenders for his equipment to work. So I brought it home and took 'em off and will trailer it back Monday and get er done. A pain, sure, but this guy is trying to help me and I appreciate that. Some shops won't fool with old hot rods or anything out of the ordinary. Having a good attitude (usually) gets a better result

[BlueJeep]

A much easier alternative to pulling the fenders off for the alignment would be to find some smaller diameter wheels with the same diameter tires to bolt on for the alignment. They clamp on the outside of the wheels and since they are partially tucked into the fenders that's the issue. We went through this with my dad's Chevelle, and just swapped on some smaller wheels for the alignment trip.

What did you use for an A/C compressor on your build? Looks great!

[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

A much easier alternative to pulling the fenders off for the alignment would be to find some smaller diameter wheels with the same diameter tires to bolt on for the alignment. They clamp on the outside of the wheels and since they are partially tucked into the fenders that's the issue. We went through this with my dad's Chevelle, and just swapped on some smaller wheels for the alignment trip.

What did you use for an A/C compressor on your build? Looks great!

It still lacked about an inch with my 15" roller wheels and tires.. I used the factory Denso compressor with the line kit adapters for the hoses

[BlueJeep]

Do you have any pictures of how you notched the frame to accommodate that compressor?

[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Do you have any pictures of how you notched the frame to accommodate that compressor?

I did , but lost all my build pics with an electronic device crash last week. I copied the bed floor from your build; it is a great idea. The compressor notch is not severe, and looking at your build I think our engines sit pretty much the same height. I did tub the firewall to be able to sit my engine back some, tho. I made sure that I could remove the compressor with the engine bolted to the mounts when I did the notch in the crossmember.

[BlueJeep]

That's how I'd have done it too, make it so you can unbolt and remove easily! So did you just have to notch the crossmember or did it get into that framerail too?

I used the H3 Hummer GM "muscle car" oil pan, is that what you used too?

[ChuckDriver]

Great looking truck!

[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

That's how I'd have done it too, make it so you can unbolt and remove easily! So did you just have to notch the crossmember or did it get into that framerail too?

I used the H3 Hummer GM "muscle car" oil pan, is that what you used too?

No it didn't interfere with the frame at all. The notch was easy and the line/hose kit works well with the Denso-to- universal adapters that I bought on eBay.
On a side note, I used the Holley bracket system and Sanden compressor on a 6.0 build last year. It wound up costing about $500 with the rip-off Holly adapters and cost of the Sanden (not to mention the belt squeak) I dislike the compressor being high up on the engine also- it limits the intake configuration options greatly.
The factory Denso worked great on a 5.3 in the factory location on a 71 C10 a few swaps ago and its the only thing I use now.
I use the factory oil pan on the 5.3. It is just a fuzz higher than the crossmember

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by chuckmc8

No it didn't interfere with the frame at all. The notch was easy and the line/hose kit works well with the Denso-to- universal adapters that I bought on eBay.
On a side note, I used the Holley bracket system and Sanden compressor on a 6.0 build last year. It wound up costing about $500 with the rip-off Holly adapters and cost of the Sanden (not to mention the belt squeak) I dislike the compressor being high up on the engine also- it limits the intake configuration options greatly.
The factory Denso worked great on a 5.3 in the factory location on a 71 C10 a few swaps ago and its the only thing I use now.
I use the factory oil pan on the 5.3. It is just a fuzz higher than the crossmember

Your engine sits higher in the frame than mine does. I used the H3 pan and it hangs below the crossmember about 3/4". That also explains why the notch wasn't that bad for you. How much of a transmission tunnel did you end up with?

[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

How much of a transmission tunnel did you end up with?

I think its about like yours- execpt I maybe moved it back more since I added the tub to the firewall for more clearance in the front.

[GAc10boy]

Dang, Chuck! Didn't realize you were this far along with the 53. Can't wait to see this bad boy. Put me in the "like it all" category - especially when you swap the wheels. Let's meet up soon!

[1952ssr]

Thanks for confirming my next move with my '52...definitely changing the 18"ers for 20's. Nice looking truck!!! What size tire you running on the front?

I'm building a '53 to sell right now just starting to get going full throttle on it with summer being over...as hot as it was this summer just couldn't work in the shop. I'm going the same route on wheels that you are on it, no spacers and deeper offset, probably ridlers 20x9.5 on front AND 20X10 on rear.