1987 TBI R10 quit running on left tank

[87ChevyR10]

Any insight is appreciated!!!

I started my truck the other day and it ran as usual for about 5 minutes then quit. I tried to restart it and it will start with some pressure on the throttle but sputters out and doesn't run as it should. When I switch to the right side tank the truck runs fine. I tried again yesterday and I still have the same problem. I do hear the pumps running before initial startup.

Where should I start? I read that it could be several things but I think it is either the pump is not building enough pressure (bad), the rubber hose in the tank is cracked, or the selector could be bad.

It does look like the selector has been replaced by the PO but I have no knowledge of when and I have owned the truck for 3 years with no prior related issues before.

[Low69CST]

Several items are know for going bad. The switch in the dash does go bad. On my truck I believe the valve under the truck is causing my right tank not to work. I determined this using a test light to determine the valve was getting juice and checking the pump in each tank. Do a search, there are lots of posts on this with wiring diagrams and such. Just make sure you get the right info for your truck; carb or tbi.

[Pano]

This is the best one I found and bookmarked for reference. In starts about the right tank but includes a great explain action how to troubleshoot the whole system.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=567277

[87ChevyR10]

Originally Posted by Pano

This is the best one I found and bookmarked for reference. In starts about the right tank but includes a great explain action how to troubleshoot the whole system.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=567277

Thanks! I haven't ran across that thread yet!!


I did try to bypass the left side fuel line on the selector with no luck getting the truck to run on that tank. I do hear the left pump running when it is selected on the dash and vice versa on the right.

Looks like I may need to pull the left pump and check that small hose above it and possibly change the pump and strainer while I'm in there?? Not sure if the new pumps are "plug and play" so to say.

[kelsfine69]

Yes. I just did mine with new tanks as well. Its worth it to replace everything at once. And the switch is still available from AC delco.

[87ChevyR10]

Originally Posted by kelsfine69

Yes. I just did mine with new tanks as well. Its worth it to replace everything at once. And the switch is still available from AC delco.

Good deal! What brand pumps and tanks did you use?

[kelsfine69]

I know I went with the Delphi pumps. Not sure on the senders and tanks but they are pretty common. Make sure you get 87 tanks as they are different. Also scope out some rubber isolator material as i found out they don't come off the old tanks too well. I also replaced the straps as they are pretty impossible to get off without breaking.

[87ChevyR10]

Dropped the tank and found the culprit! The hose above the pump had a hole. I plan on changing the pump and the strainer while I'm at it. I have also ordered everything for the right tank also. Thanks for the help!

[gmachinz]

Wow-nice simple find!

[hatzie]

Looks like it didn't have the right fuel hose.
You need SAE J30R10 hose in a submerged application like the in-tank fuel pump.

Replace the hoses off the top of the sender to the frame with SAE J30R9 hose.

[87ChevyR10]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Looks like it didn't have the right fuel hose.
You need SAE J30R10 hose in a submerged application like the in-tank fuel pump.

Replace the hoses off the top of the sender to the frame with SAE J30R9 hose.

Good info! Do you know if the new ac pumps will include the correct submerge type hose? They should be here today but with all the hurricane evacuations there is no telling!

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by 87ChevyR10

Good info! Do you know if the new ac pumps will include the correct submerge type hose? They should be here today but with all the hurricane evacuations there is no telling!

Maybe but I wouldn't count on it. I've gotten the wrong hose in with several fuel pumps.

Such a PITA to fix it I'd just get a short 6" length of the correct diameter SAE J30R10.
Maybe 18"-24" of the two SAE J30R9 diameters needed for pressure and return.
You can use the cheap SAE J30R7 hose for the vent line or just stick with the J30R9 hose.

[87ChevyR10]

After months of searching, calling, and buying I have completed what most could have finished in a day into a winter project. I am a super purist so bare with me!

I did take the advice of those on this thread and site and replaced both pumps and hoses. I did however buy nos AC Delco pumps, which I would have just bought new pumps if I had it to do over for the simple fact of how in-depth my project went.

I started this project searching for tanks after I purchased the pumps. I found that Spectra has a tank that almost matches the factory originals and could have possibly built them originally. The three things I found different in their tanks were the ring where the sending units are secured was cosmetically larger (simply cosmetic), the metal baffle in the new tank vs. the original plastic baffle, and the tabs where the tank is pressed together stuck out too far (which I bent precisely to match the originals). I did have to return one of the tanks to my local AutoZone after it arrived bent but they did not give me any issues and had a replacement the next day. (I purchased them online during one of their 20% off deals.)

My searched continued for the tar like coating the tanks on my truck had from the factory. I found Quanta has a product that matches perfectly called Q-coat, it comes in a quart which is plenty for two tanks and some practice runs...literally, with some left over.

During this time I was searching hard for the tar paper insulating material that goes between the tanks and the frame brackets/straps. I contacted many building supply companies up and down the east coast only to strike out. Everyone I come in contact with uses or recommended the #30 tar paper that is available at your local Lowes or Home Depot. I did find a gentleman on the NCRS forum from Maryland that had the same factory like material he purchased from a place years ago that had the same thickness and look of the original material that my truck came with. I decided to make a trip to meet him and get enough to cover what I needed.

After thinking I reached the point of putting my truck back together, I thought of another detail that most projects skip over...nuts and bolts. I called up Caswell Plating and purchased their small black oxide kit. After some test runs I noticed some of the factory bolts had a different finish that matched the manganese phosphate finish that Scott Owens provides at palmettoenterprises.net. I purchased a pint of solution from Scott and was able to match the nuts and bolts that were required to be removed in this project with these products. Both products come with instructions and are fairly easy to do. I do want to learn more about the plating process that other parts of these trucks have but that is for another day and investment as plating can get expensive...QUICK.

After gathering everything and coating the nuts and bolts of the project I installed the senders/pumps into the tanks. I then installed the tank brackets with the hard to find tar paper felt that I precisely cut and proceeded to spraying the tanks with the Q-coat asphalt based paint. I used an old paint spray gun my neighbor gave me, followed Quanta's thinning instructions on the container, and achieved the factory look of overspray and runs on the tanks I was looking for. I let the tanks dry for a couple days and installed everything using my factory hoses as they were still in excellent shape.

I found most of the information needed to remove the tanks on this forum but what I didn't find is most of what I included above. I know I went overkill on the details but I love learning new processes and keeping my truck as close to factory as possible. I may have missed a process or two so feel free to ask. Hope someone can gain from my difficulties!

-Will

[Keith Seymore]

Which plant was your truck assembled in?

K

[87ChevyR10]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Which plant was your truck assembled in?

K

Keith,

It was produced and invoiced on 12/17/1986 in Flint. It has the number 60 on the top of the left tank (and other places on the truck of course). I found this out by removing some of the tar like paint off the original tanks. I forgot to add I replicated it on the new left tank with a Markal paint stick.

-Will