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Old 09-29-2016, 07:20 AM   #1
Nickelcharlie
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Fuel Gage remains stuck on the right side

I have a 1986 GMC with dual tanks with a gas gage with the needle stuck on the far right side. It used to peg out when I switched to the left tank now pressing the switch up or down does not change the gage. When I press the switch either up or down I can hear the switching valve under the truck switch. Is this an indication that my cage is not working? Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-29-2016, 09:19 AM   #2
blazer2007
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Re: Fuel Gage remains stuck on the right side

sounds like a loose ground on the tank
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:26 AM   #3
wilkin250r
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Re: Fuel Gage remains stuck on the right side

So your switch obviously activates a valve. That valve does two jobs, it changes the routing of your fuel flow, and also changes a set of electrical connections that determines which tank your fuel gauge is reading.

Pegged to the far right is an indication of a broken electrical path. Either a connection came undone, or a wire broke, or a loose ground on the tank as blazer suggested, or something broken in the sending unit itself. In electrical terms, it's called an Open Circuit. The electricity is not making a full path.

If it used to only happen on the left tank, but the right tank worked properly, then your gauge was obviously functional back then, so I suspect it's STILL functional now. I don't think the gauge is your problem.

These sending units are delicate, and now they're delicate and old. Most likely, your right side tank just gave up, and now you have the same problem with both tanks, which is why you're getting the same reading. Most likely.
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:25 PM   #4
Nickelcharlie
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Re: Fuel Gage remains stuck on the right side

Thank you blazer2007 and wilkin250r for taking the time to give an in-depth explanation.

Now for testing and repllacing, which way would be the easiest drop the tanks or take off the bed?
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:54 PM   #5
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Re: Fuel Gage remains stuck on the right side

No need to do either, for testing. You just got to get a little creative. But when it comes to replacing (if that IS the problem), most people suggest removing the bed.

I don't have a wiring diagram, and I'm not 100% familiar with the 86 (it has a different valve than mine), but the theory is all the same. The gas gauge is just a resistance meter. Zero ohms is empty, 90 ohms is full. That is why your gas gauge is pegged to the right, with the open circuit it is seeing a zillion ohms.

SO, the basic theory for testing is simple. You pull the electrical connection, and send the fuel level wire to ground. This should read as an empty tank, and see if your gauge responds accordingly. If the gauge reads empty like it should, then the problem is in the tank or the valve. If the gauge does NOT respond properly, then the problem is in the wiring or gauge itself. If you wanted to get really creative, you can run to a Radio Shack or similar electronics supply, and pick up a couple resistors for about $1 and test the gauge at half-full, or 3/4, or 1/3, depending on resistor values.

No need to remove the bed if the problem is a faulty gauge.

So, simple in theory. Walking you through the process is slightly more difficult, because I don't have pictures to show you, I don't know the color codes, I can't SHOW you. But it's not all that difficult, the connection you need to test is the 6-pin connection at the fuel selection valve under the truck (NOT the selector switch on the dash).
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Old 09-29-2016, 03:34 PM   #6
Nickelcharlie
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Re: Fuel Gage remains stuck on the right side

Thank you very much wilkin250r. I will give it a shot!
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Old 09-30-2016, 11:28 AM   #7
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Re: Fuel Gage remains stuck on the right side

Get some info on wiring. Somewhere on that 6-pin connector is a +12V feed, and if you short that one straight to ground, you're gonna fry your wires.
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Old 09-30-2016, 06:43 PM   #8
hatzie
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Re: Fuel Gage remains stuck on the right side

The terminals on the valve connector are A-F. F is a closed off cavity A is on the opposite end.
  • A is the wire from the RH sender.
  • B is the wire to the gauge.
  • C is the wire from the LH sender.
  • D & E are the valve motor power. Polarity depends on the dash switch position.
I would check that the tank is still getting a good ground. It's the most fragile part of the sender circuit. The ground strap from the frame to the tank is attached to a 1/4" male disconnect terminal on the sender locking ring to a machine screw on the frame. The disconnect tang typically rots off and then you loose your ground.

You can check the gauge by grounding terminal B. It'll drive the gauge needle to E.
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RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials...Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions.
And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.
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