For better or worse, shes in my driveway.

[gigamanx]

For better or worse, my 1949 3100 has arrived in the driveway. This is my first time seeing it in person; not a bad way to start in hot rodding. First thoughts looking at it are:

The wheels have 6 bolts instead of 5. Are the axles stock?

Is there an easy way to know if there is a 12v conversion on the engine or if its the standard 6v?

The interior was in better shape than I expected. With some new hoses, brakes, and fluid, I'm hoping to have her running.

Step 1...get the shop vac and hornets out.

[iowaboynca]

Yeah!!!
Send some more pics of your progress as you clean things out and of the engine bay. Will help to answer your questions correctly.

With 6 lugs probably the OE suspension/axle, but like i said above pics help.

[iowaboynca]

Oh yeah Admins...this is in the wrong spot. Might want to move to the 47-59 board.

Just sayin...

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by iowaboynca

Oh yeah Admins...this is in the wrong spot. Might want to move to the 47-59 board.

Just sayin...

I was going to ask the same thing. Tried to delete, but no delete button. Thanks admins if you can move it to the 47-54 forum.

[gigamanx]

Here are a bunch more pictures. I can't find any identification of the rear axle to figure out what the bolt pattern/wheel size is. I will certainly want to replace both. I did find a couple of things hinting at it being a 12v electrical system though.

[gigamanx]

Electrical system Q/A

[joedoh]

with an alternator installed its a sure thing its a 12v system

rear looks like a later truck rear (based on the open driveline), probably the same truck that gave that later 235 (based on the head casting #) so looks like a 58-60 setup. probably changed it all in a weekend.

thats a full pressure 235 (full oil pressure, the 47-52 engines were splash oilers) , so a good motor for the time being as long as it runs ok.

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by joedoh

with an alternator installed its a sure thing its a 12v system

Have to challenge you on this one. My bother-in-law has a 52 F//d, that has a GM alternator that was converted to 6 volt. I also believe you can buy them on line...Jim

[mongocanfly]

Voltage is easy enough to check with a volt meter..if the battery doesn't say 12v on it..coil has 12v on the side of it also..looks like you got ya a good truck to start out on

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Have to challenge you on this one. My bother-in-law has a 52 F//d, that has a GM alternator that was converted to 6 volt. I also believe you can buy them on line...Jim

I stand corrected.


but....


do you bet on the long shots at the dog track? would you bet me $100 that is not a 12v alternator?

[gigamanx]

I probably would never have done this without knowing I had support...so thanks to the folks on this forum for helping me out based on a few pictures. The truck has no battery so that's where the conversation started. I need to figure out what battery to buy and didn't want to get something that would roast the electronics before I even begin. As far as 12v, I'm pretty convinced myself that I am going to try that. I don't think it'll start because there are random wires in the engine bay that have become rat breakfast. I probably have to trace some and go through the process of making sure the engine sparks before turning it over. Also need to check fluids since I am going to guess this hasn't been on the road in 10 years. I'm entirely basing it on the 2" of rat poop I just vacuumed out from under the seats lol.

The good news! I'm finding very little flaking or brittle areas of the body due to rust. A good start I hope. I made my first parts order today from classicparts.com and it was exhilarating! I wonder if this excitement will die down or if it feels this fun every time I make some progress.

Finally...the kids have picked out the color. Looks like I have more work ahead since I'm the only one who likes a patina/fauxtina

[mongocanfly]

You could pull the alternator off and take it to one of the parts stores that have a alternator tester ...just to see if it puts out 12v..but like joedoh says..I'm betting its 12v

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I stand corrected.


but....


do you bet on the long shots at the dog track? would you bet me $100 that is not a 12v alternator?

I don't bet unless I know I will win, just saying in could be...Jim

[73kay]

Yes! Glad she's home! Here are a few cheap things I did to my 53 when I got it, (I don't know what your plans are with it) but to get it running for now:

-I ditched all the old wiring and pulled a CLEAN wiring harness from a 70s chevy c10 at a junkyard (works with your lights, fuses, I pulled the light switch too, and already wired for hei dizzy)
-bought a dizzy for a 250 off ebay for $40 and make some slight modifications to get it setup. (my coil exploded after I left the on switch overnight, scary so I switched to HEI)
-With a newer wiring harness and dizzy, you have a good platform to just drive it and have your lights working.
-Engine: I would def drain all fluids and use new oil, and prime it before you install the dizzy and make sure oil is coming to the rockers. Put just water in the radiator for now and check for leaks, I had a few leaky freeze plugs.
-Purchase a carb rebuild kit
-battery, I got a 12v battery at advance that fit in the stock location.

Just one way to get her on the road cheap, of course there are a million ways to do, but want to give you some ideas.

Anyways start a build thread for sure!

[Coupeguy2001]

Does it have a radio?
If it does, there usually is a voltage notation somewhere either stamped or a sticker stating the voltage.
You could always look at the tail light bulbs. You should be able to look at the auto zone bulb chart or the pack of new bulbs of the same number. On the package, it will say 12 volt or 6 volt.
Sometimes when people switch to an alternator, they usually put in a 12 to 6 volt adapter unit that may just be a large resistor so they don't have to change the gauges, etc. and just the engine and lights get switched to 12 volts.

[mr48chev]

It doesn't take many wires to wire it so you can try to start it. I'd try that first before buying any wiring kits or trying to cobble a wrecking yard wiring harness into it.

I've done the donor rig wiring in my truck in the past but you end up doing too much cutting and splicing to make it worth the effort even if you are saving a few bucks. Add to that the donor rig is probably over 30 years old and may have issues of it's own being that a 1986 truck is 30 years old now.

On the AD truck wiring mine was shot when I bought the truck in 1973 and it was 25 years old. That wiring didn't hold up for all that long unless the truck was somewhere in a pretty comfortable to the truck climate.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Coupeguy2001

Does it have a radio?
If it does, there usually is a voltage notation somewhere either stamped or a sticker stating the voltage.
You could always look at the tail light bulbs. You should be able to look at the auto zone bulb chart or the pack of new bulbs of the same number. On the package, it will say 12 volt or 6 volt.
Sometimes when people switch to an alternator, they usually put in a 12 to 6 volt adapter unit that may just be a large resistor so they don't have to change the gauges, etc. and just the engine and lights get switched to 12 volts.

I did a couple 12v conversions on bugs in my younger days and we changed the battery, voltage regulator, generator, and thats it haha. on a bug, no temp gauge to worry about, no gas gauge either (had a yard stick from the factory), so the bulbs all burned twice as bright and the starter turned twice as fast.

but coupeguy is right, the gauges might have a resistor wired across the gas gauge, everything else should work, the temp and oil are mechanical and the ammeter is a pretty arbitrary indicator anyway that doesnt care about 12v. the bulbs may or may not be changed, they burn twice as bright for half as long though with a 6v bulb in a 12v system. dont the headlights say 12v on them somewhere?

[67GMCkid]

In the picture of your coil, it is stamped 12v.

[Fiftee3]

That rear end is an HO-33. Gear ratios i believe were 3.38, 3.70, 3.90 and 4.11.
Most common were 3.90 and 4.11, others very rare.
Mine with three speed didn't top 45-50 mph. Changed to T-5 5 speed and was able to cruise at 60-65. But still scrapped rear this year. Leaked like crazy!

[1project2many]

Whew! Happy to see mongocanfly and 67GMCkid noticed the same thing I did.

12V into 6V system with no coil change leads to hot, hot sparks for a short time. Spark will jump gap up to 1" long, like HEI system, while the points fizzle and sizzle. 6V works OK but it feels much more reassuring to turn key and hear starter crank engine "real quick." The plus side? 6V system battery cables are usually 0 or 00 gauge to carry the current.

[HUSSEY]

Looking good, so what's your overall path with this (motor, driveline, suspension, chassis, etc.)? Are looking to get it running and fix up as you go or are you doing a total tear down and rebuild?

[mr48chev]

There should be a ballast resistor on the firewall to work along with that coil.

The way they mounted the rear axle is pretty crude but it looks like it has been that way for a long time. It looks like they bent a piece of 3/8 flat bar to go around the axle and welded it to the axle and used the stock clamps to hold it to the axle. The replacement axle will need the proper spring pads and U bolts though.

I'm like who ever said that most likely the engine, trans and rear axle came out of the same TF donor truck. That was a pretty common thing to do in the 70's when your babbitt beater finally flung it's last rod and a good running but beat up TF could be had cheap.

I'd get it running if it will run and then sit down and form a master plan after I got it running.

[dsraven]

if there is a battery in the truck when you got it just check how many cell caps there are, 2 volts per cell. 6 caps is 12 volts.

[mr48chev]

And if it has two they usually cover three cells with each one.

[mongocanfly]

He's already said it didn't have a battery..