Slamming the 72

[The72]

Hi. I'm looking for all the input I can get on Slamming my truck. I'm thinking 6/8. Minimum lol. Discs up front and coils in the back. Factory 90s chevy 15 inch wheels currently.

What amount of drop spindle can fit with 15 inch wheels? I'm open to brand suggestions as well.
Will other newer models drop spindles fit as well? I will be replacing ball joint when I install new spindles so I can install whatever ball joints will fit newer model spindles. Just incase I find me some on Craigslist for cheap.

Also, what issues will I run into. Forgot the tire size but it isn't a very tall tire

How do I achieve the remaining inches. Cut factory springs or aftermarket drop springs


Now for the back end. 2 inch blocks and 6 inch drop coils is the route I'm thinking of taking. Will the frame need to be notched? And what other issues may arise.
Again open to any suggestions.

Thank you all for the input

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Any questions about suspension or any related issues I've ever had have been answered by the guys at Early Classic Enterprises:

Call 'em for a good time!!!!


Toll Free Order Line: 888.777.0395
Tech Line: 559.291.1611
Fax Line: 559.291.1773
Mailing Address: 5843 E Clinton Ave, Fresno, California 93727

[The72]

Originally Posted by magwakeenercew2jh

Any questions about suspension or any related issues I've ever had have been answered by the guys at Early Classic Enterprises:

Call 'em for a good time!!!!


Toll Free Order Line: 888.777.0395
Tech Line: 559.291.1611
Fax Line: 559.291.1773
Mailing Address: 5843 E Clinton Ave, Fresno, California 93727

Lol! That's good to know. Thank you.

Im also lookin for what others have done. Issues they ran into and how they solved them.
I like to see how creative people get to accomplish their goal. Like small mods. Small cuts and welds type of things.

[Shinysideup]

You should take time reading thru the forum, you will find answers to all these musings.

[GR8-68]

Most won't go that low with coils anymore. May want to look into doing bags, and definitely have to c notch with that kind of drop.

[Mike C]

5/7 about as low as practical with springs. Gets way more complicated and expensive to go lower IMO.

And staying with 15's and a short tire also a mistake. You can't tuck the front wheels in and it's hard to keep any height to the tire which I think is so important to keeping a good luck to a dropped truck.

Drop it, tuck the wheels, and fill up the wheel well!

[RodnRudy]

I used CPP's stuff on my 68, 2 1/2" drop spindles 3" drop springs in front and 5"drop springs with 2"lowering blocks in the rear for a 5 1/2, 7" drop. I also used their C Notch kit. Running 15" Rallys, 8's rear, 6 1/2's front on 275/60's and 225/70's. I purchased CPP's Grand Slam kit which gave me every thing needed for the change over. I'm very happy with the results and don't have a problem with bottoming out or tire rub but you've got to be careful driving. Oh and I used a 71 rear end for the 5 lug bolt pattern.

[The72]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Most won't go that low with coils anymore. May want to look into doing bags, and definitely have to c notch with that kind of drop.

Originally Posted by Mike C

5/7 about as low as practical with springs. Gets way more complicated and expensive to go lower IMO.

And staying with 15's and a short tire also a mistake. You can't tuck the front wheels in and it's hard to keep any height to the tire which I think is so important to keeping a good luck to a dropped truck.

Drop it, tuck the wheels, and fill up the wheel well!

Originally Posted by RodnRudy

I used CPP's stuff on my 68, 2 1/2" drop spindles 3" drop springs in front and 5"drop springs with 2"lowering blocks in the rear for a 5 1/2, 7" drop. I also used their C Notch kit. Running 15" Rallys, 8's rear, 6 1/2's front on 275/60's and 225/70's. I purchased CPP's Grand Slam kit which gave me every thing needed for the change over. I'm very happy with the results and don't have a problem with bottoming out or tire rub but you've got to be careful driving. Oh and I used a 71 rear end for the 5 lug bolt pattern.

Thanks guys 5/7 isn't too far from 6/8 I might be able to live with that, til I get the itch to go lower lol

RodnRudy, you mention you have to be careful when driving that low. Is it mostly the front end or the back end that you have to be careful with? I ask because I can live with 5.5 drop in front but I know I might want to squeeze another inch from the back haha. What I might do is get 6" drop coils and get 1" blocks to replace the 2" blocks incase it's too low or I don't like the stance.

Thanks to everyone who replied to this thread.

[RodnRudy]

With the 7" drop in the rear I have 2 1/2" clearance before the rear axle housing hits the snubber. The top of the rear end housing is also 2 1/2" from the bed floor so that's all the travel I've got. If I hit a chuck hole the rear tire will drop into it and the rebound from that will make the rear end hit the snubber in the C notch. If I encounter a sharp dip in the road and am at speed the front tire will "kiss" the inner fender panel, but doesn't really hurt anything. I don't have any tire rub trouble while turning but I try to be aware if I'm going into a raised drive. The lower A arms have 3" ground clearance but go up with the tire so that's not a problem on speed bumps. Hope this helps. Phil
Oh and my front tires are 27.4" tall and the rears are 28".

[Cbo]

Originally Posted by RodnRudy

With the 7" drop in the rear I have 2 1/2" clearance before the rear axle housing hits the snubber. The top of the rear end housing is also 2 1/2" from the bed floor so that's all the travel I've got. If I hit a chuck hole the rear tire will drop into it and the rebound from that will make the rear end hit the snubber in the C notch. If I encounter a sharp dip in the road and am at speed the front tire will "kiss" the inner fender panel, but doesn't really hurt anything. I don't have any tire rub trouble while turning but I try to be aware if I'm going into a raised drive. The lower A arms have 3" ground clearance but go up with the tire so that's not a problem on speed bumps. Hope this helps. Phil
Oh and my front tires are 27.4" tall and the rears are 28".

how is the ride with drop springs AND blocks in the rear? did you replace or upgrade your shocks as well? seems like compressing the springs and shock with a lowering block would kill the rideability of the truck

[RodnRudy]

The lowering block hasn't got anything to do with that. It raises the rear end up off the truck arm. The spring is located on the bottom of the frame and the top of the truck arm and the shock is located on the frame cross member and the truck arm. Ride quality is not hampered by the lowering block and I do have shorter shocks front and rear.

[The72]

Originally Posted by RodnRudy

With the 7" drop in the rear I have 2 1/2" clearance before the rear axle housing hits the snubber. The top of the rear end housing is also 2 1/2" from the bed floor so that's all the travel I've got. If I hit a chuck hole the rear tire will drop into it and the rebound from that will make the rear end hit the snubber in the C notch. If I encounter a sharp dip in the road and am at speed the front tire will "kiss" the inner fender panel, but doesn't really hurt anything. I don't have any tire rub trouble while turning but I try to be aware if I'm going into a raised drive. The lower A arms have 3" ground clearance but go up with the tire so that's not a problem on speed bumps. Hope this helps. Phil
Oh and my front tires are 27.4" tall and the rears are 28".

Beautiful! This was exactly the info I was looking for, thank you. If I may ask another question, do you find that with your amount of drop it is necessary to relocate your shocks position and have track bar modified? I'm looking at CPP's kits wondering if its worth or actually necessary to invest in the kit with those extras (adjustable track bar, shock relocator) and are the shocks necessary for that matter? I ask because my S10 was just inches from the ground and either I got used to it or something but I never felt I needed shorter shocks. All I did was replace the stock ones with some Monroe shocks and I couldn't complain. I was also younger and more resilient lol

[Mike C]

My truck is leaf so it wasn't required. I did redrill the upper shock mount to make the damper more vertical. I used 4 stock length front shocks all the way around.

But on a coil truck with that much drop, relocating the shocks and adjustable panhard bar are both required. And to maximize tire clearance and equal spacing I wouldn't want to lower (or raise!) a coil truck without it.

[RodnRudy]

What Mike C said is correct, you have to use an adjustable pan hard bar to re center the rear end after lowering it. As for shocks, I used the CPP brand lowering shocks front and rear and also their rear shock locator brackets. The locators move the shocks to a more vertical position to maximize dampening.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Whatever. All Early Classic. 4.5"/6"

All coils with 2.5 drop spindles ip front; shock relocating kit; adjustable panhard bar;
20" Boss 338 wheels 8.5w up front and 10w in the rear.

ECE rotors.

No c-notch. No bottoming. No rubbing. Did an alignment after the completion of the running gear install.
Runs and stops straight. No fade, no shimmy.

[The72]

Thanks to everyone who has responded to this thread. I've slightly changed directions on the back end. I think I will bag the back end so I can go realy low but air up incase I have to load it up. Can anyone recommend a trac bar? I'm looking at cpp they have an adjustable and a deluxe (long) version. I assumed the longer version would be better to keep everything center through the suspension travel but a review on summit says not good for bagged trucks..

Thanks again for any help.