Brake Job/Front drum question RE: my '67? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**passthebuck** · 10-10-2003, 01:05 AM

On my 67 - the drums are currently rivited to the front hubs.... Do I need to cut those rivits to changeout the drums? any tips/tricks? AND I need to do a general brake job all around - I need to replace the shoes & some drums - any tips/tricks? I will probally change out the wheel cylinders all around & the front hoses BUT I thought I should ask here first! Thanks all!!

jorgensensc · 10-10-2003, 01:10 AM

Definately change the wheel cylinders. Cheap, but good idea.

VTKidder · 10-10-2003, 07:58 AM

As long as you have it apart, as said above, do the WC's, but be prepared first, I've NEVER had a line unscrew from a wheel cylinder. That led to cutting the line on the axle, compression fittings, etc.

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 10-10-2003, 09:26 AM

Those rivets are actully just studs, we use a wire brush to clean them on the wheel side then holding the drum brake side down drop/slam them on the floor until the hub drops out.

VTKidder · 10-10-2003, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MOTHERTRUCKERS
...then holding the drum brake side down drop/slam them on the floor until the hub drops out.

So that's how you guys do business down in FL, eh?

Just kidding....couldn't pass that chance up!

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 10-10-2003, 09:50 AM

Sometimes ya gotta get those aggressions out and a junk brake drum works for me.

1-PU70 · 10-10-2003, 04:34 PM

Did someone say compression fittings on brake lines? Not on my truck.

**passthebuck** · 10-11-2003, 01:38 AM

SO i took 3 drums that came with my truck to get turned - two are too "warped" to true up & the 3rd is too deeply groved to machine. I cant win.

I have had several seized brake fittings & I first wirebrush all the krap off & then soak them in release all, then apply heat to the nut/fitting & then while hot, release all it. I did this a few times & eventually it comes loose. Beware, I was heating the fitting between the hard brake line & the rubber brake line & the rubber line exploded. Justa loud pop & rubber everwhere. I'll wear goggles next time.

Longhorn Man · 10-11-2003, 07:47 PM

brake fluid burns the 'ole peepers a little huh?
I got squirted in the eyes once and I wanted to curl up in the fetal position and cry like a baby.

**passthebuck** · 10-11-2003, 08:33 PM

Oh ya it burns... OK-UPDATE. I wanted a second opinion on those "warped" drums. I went to a local brakeshop & asked them to machine all three drums (i didnt mention that they were "warped"). They did two of them & couldnt do the third - it was too grooved. BUT i asked the mechanic - are these warped or skrewed up? he said no-they're good but they are at the end of their tolerence. damm shysters.

Longhorn Man · 10-11-2003, 11:08 PM

Some shops are a little more forgiving on the tolerence than others. I've had a shop turn mine beyond the tolerence numbers, but only by a hair.
It's kinda a judgement call.

**passthebuck** · 10-12-2003, 12:27 AM

I've had what you had before Longhorn Man - they turned them a touch past the limit to get them good & thats ok by me cause I think they build a bit of safetyfactor into the drum. The guy @ the garage asked me if they are for the Road Safety - I said yes & that means that if they are too big then it wont pass the govt inspection. The "mechanic" at the other place i stoped at said they were warped. I know they gotta make money by selling new parts & all that but i just dont like getting skrewed. I'd never heard of a warped drum before...

Longhorn Man · 10-12-2003, 12:35 AM

Yeah, they warp all the time. Rotors too. We turn them all the time at the shop.
As long as it is not warped to exses, then it is OK to turn them.

**passthebuck** · 10-13-2003, 12:42 AM

update. SO today (sunday) i did the back brakes. pasenger side was not too bad - the usual-the wheel cylinder bolts were seized & visegrips & heat got 'em out. & the hardline i heated & sprayed till it worked loose. New bolts & it was back together. The drivres side was worse - had to grind off the bolts & the hardline broke. I put in a new piece of universal line & I bent it up. & now its all back together. all i gotta do is bleed 'em. I'm NOT looking forward to the fronts....

**passthebuck** · 10-13-2003, 08:14 PM

WELL, I did the fronts & they went easier. New shoes, cylinders & hoses. No problems BUT damm those big bolts that hold the cylinders on are INSANELY tight & a big breakerbar did it. I did the backup thing & tried to adjust the breaks but they dont seem to be working. Do they not work?

Longhorn Man · 10-13-2003, 11:19 PM

They will make small adjustments. You need to adjust them with a brake spoon or a flat head screw driver first, then do the back up deal while pumping the brakes.

10-10-2003, 01:05 AM	#1
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	Brake Job/Front drum question RE: my '67? On my 67 - the drums are currently rivited to the front hubs.... Do I need to cut those rivits to changeout the drums? any tips/tricks? AND I need to do a general brake job all around - I need to replace the shoes & some drums - any tips/tricks? I will probally change out the wheel cylinders all around & the front hoses BUT I thought I should ask here first! Thanks all!! __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

10-10-2003, 01:10 AM	#2
jorgensensc Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Cypress, Tx Posts: 4,005	Definately change the wheel cylinders. Cheap, but good idea. __________________ 1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE

10-10-2003, 09:26 AM	#4
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	Those rivets are actully just studs, we use a wire brush to clean them on the wheel side then holding the drum brake side down drop/slam them on the floor until the hub drops out. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

10-10-2003, 09:50 AM	#6
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	Sometimes ya gotta get those aggressions out and a junk brake drum works for me. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

10-10-2003, 04:34 PM	#7
1-PU70 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Bradenton, FL Posts: 1,036	Did someone say compression fittings on brake lines? Not on my truck. __________________ 1970 CST/10 402,700R4,3:73 posi,AC,PS,PB,TLT,PW,Buckets with heaters

10-10-2003, 07:58 AM	#3
VTKidder Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Vermont Posts: 996	As long as you have it apart, as said above, do the WC's, but be prepared first, I've NEVER had a line unscrew from a wheel cylinder. That led to cutting the line on the axle, compression fittings, etc.

10-11-2003, 01:38 AM	#8
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	seized brake fittings SO i took 3 drums that came with my truck to get turned - two are too "warped" to true up & the 3rd is too deeply groved to machine. I cant win. I have had several seized brake fittings & I first wirebrush all the krap off & then soak them in release all, then apply heat to the nut/fitting & then while hot, release all it. I did this a few times & eventually it comes loose. Beware, I was heating the fitting between the hard brake line & the rubber brake line & the rubber line exploded. Justa loud pop & rubber everwhere. I'll wear goggles next time. __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

10-11-2003, 07:47 PM	#9
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	brake fluid burns the 'ole peepers a little huh? I got squirted in the eyes once and I wanted to curl up in the fetal position and cry like a baby.

10-11-2003, 08:33 PM	#10
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	UPDATE Oh ya it burns... OK-UPDATE. I wanted a second opinion on those "warped" drums. I went to a local brakeshop & asked them to machine all three drums (i didnt mention that they were "warped"). They did two of them & couldnt do the third - it was too grooved. BUT i asked the mechanic - are these warped or skrewed up? he said no-they're good but they are at the end of their tolerence. damm shysters. __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

10-11-2003, 11:08 PM	#11
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Some shops are a little more forgiving on the tolerence than others. I've had a shop turn mine beyond the tolerence numbers, but only by a hair. It's kinda a judgement call.

10-12-2003, 12:27 AM	#12
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	I've had what you had before Longhorn Man - they turned them a touch past the limit to get them good & thats ok by me cause I think they build a bit of safetyfactor into the drum. The guy @ the garage asked me if they are for the Road Safety - I said yes & that means that if they are too big then it wont pass the govt inspection. The "mechanic" at the other place i stoped at said they were warped. I know they gotta make money by selling new parts & all that but i just dont like getting skrewed. I'd never heard of a warped drum before... __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

10-12-2003, 12:35 AM	#13
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Yeah, they warp all the time. Rotors too. We turn them all the time at the shop. As long as it is not warped to exses, then it is OK to turn them.

10-13-2003, 12:42 AM	#14
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	update update. SO today (sunday) i did the back brakes. pasenger side was not too bad - the usual-the wheel cylinder bolts were seized & visegrips & heat got 'em out. & the hardline i heated & sprayed till it worked loose. New bolts & it was back together. The drivres side was worse - had to grind off the bolts & the hardline broke. I put in a new piece of universal line & I bent it up. & now its all back together. all i gotta do is bleed 'em. I'm NOT looking forward to the fronts.... __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

10-13-2003, 08:14 PM	#15
passthebuck Sisyphus was my mentor! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA Posts: 984	update WELL, I did the fronts & they went easier. New shoes, cylinders & hoses. No problems BUT damm those big bolts that hold the cylinders on are INSANELY tight & a big breakerbar did it. I did the backup thing & tried to adjust the breaks but they dont seem to be working. Do they not work? __________________ passthebuck #5642 -TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4. -a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car

10-13-2003, 11:19 PM	#16
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	They will make small adjustments. You need to adjust them with a brake spoon or a flat head screw driver first, then do the back up deal while pumping the brakes.



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