Cab Mounts with Welded Bolts? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Orion 762 · 10-10-2003, 01:07 AM

I'm trying the 'Replace Cab Mounts" game, but on both of my "forward cab mounts", the long thru-bolts have been welded to the floor (on the inside of the cab). The rear cab-mounts come apart with no problem. (1971 Cheyenne).

I recently bought anew set of mounts/bolt/nuts etc. Do I need to break these welds, OR do I just try to re-use the welded thru-bolts as-is?? It looks like a TIG weld where the original "hex head" of the bolt is melted/welded to the flooring. I guess this was done to keep them from backing off on their own.

Any hints?? If I keep the original welded-in bolts, it looks like I'll have to raise the cab (somehow) more than 4" to get clearance to install the new rubber mounts.

If I need to remove these thru-bolts, what's the best way to "break the old weld" without chewing a hole thru my floor?

Any help will be appreciated.

Orion 762

O'l Buck · 10-10-2003, 01:26 AM

My old cab had the bolts welded in too. I guess the only thing I can think of that would take the weld off without doing too much damage to the floor would be a die grinder, or maybe drill the head off of the bolt and grind the welds off. any way I can think of will take a long time.

jorgensensc · 10-10-2003, 01:30 AM

I recently did this same thing. I can't really help you with the bolt problem. I say leave them in and raise the cab, but thats just my opinion. Be careful if your truck is still together. Make sure you disconnect the radiator shroud. I didn't and mine broke the mounting tabs. My front bolts near the radiator were completely rusted solid. Also be careful jacking up the cab from the front. Make sure you close the doors (for structural integrity) and watch the back of the cab so it doesn't hit the bed. Hope this helps some!

crazy longhorn · 10-10-2003, 03:04 AM

You might try a hole saw that almost fit over the head of the bolt. If you get a pilot hole started in the center of the bolthead, you should be able to cut the weld cleanly. That recess in the floor makes it tough to get much of any thing in. I just changed cab mounts(my bolts were not welded).......I think you will play hell getting the cab up 4 " on the front end with the truck assembled. Good luck,crazyL

lost wages · 10-10-2003, 03:42 AM

mine were just tacked on, i took the nut off the bottom and used an open end wrench and it didnt take much to break th weld.

DMAN · 10-10-2003, 12:04 PM

Mine were welded on also.I used a drill about the same dia. as the threaded section of the bolt and drilled through head.I then used a cold chisel on whatever was left.

Custom 68 · 10-10-2003, 12:40 PM

I just used a chisel to break mine free. If you leave them in you will have to raise the cab pretty high to get them to clear.

Kid · 10-10-2003, 03:23 PM

A chisel and some sweat worked for me too.

Orion 762 · 10-10-2003, 04:25 PM

I really appreciate the input on this. Somehow getting my cab up "4 inches" seems like too much of a challenge, so I'm getting some cold-chisels sharpened up. If that does not work . . . next up might be the cutting torch, or small charge of C4 (that'll loosen them up a bit!).

I'll let you know how it goes . . . Thanks.

Orion 762

Orion 762 · 10-11-2003, 02:27 AM

A cold chisel, sweat, and a big cheater bar did the trick on those welds. Got the 4 main cab mounts installed, and "man" what an improvement. No more of that "squishy feel" and occasional "loud pop" going around curves!

Thanks for your help . . . Orion 762

10-10-2003, 01:07 AM	#1
Orion 762 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mississippi Posts: 36	Cab Mounts with Welded Bolts? I'm trying the 'Replace Cab Mounts" game, but on both of my "forward cab mounts", the long thru-bolts have been welded to the floor (on the inside of the cab). The rear cab-mounts come apart with no problem. (1971 Cheyenne). I recently bought anew set of mounts/bolt/nuts etc. Do I need to break these welds, OR do I just try to re-use the welded thru-bolts as-is?? It looks like a TIG weld where the original "hex head" of the bolt is melted/welded to the flooring. I guess this was done to keep them from backing off on their own. Any hints?? If I keep the original welded-in bolts, it looks like I'll have to raise the cab (somehow) more than 4" to get clearance to install the new rubber mounts. If I need to remove these thru-bolts, what's the best way to "break the old weld" without chewing a hole thru my floor? Any help will be appreciated. Orion 762

10-10-2003, 01:26 AM	#2
O'l Buck Recovering Truck Driver Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Orleans, NE USA Posts: 1,883	My old cab had the bolts welded in too. I guess the only thing I can think of that would take the weld off without doing too much damage to the floor would be a die grinder, or maybe drill the head off of the bolt and grind the welds off. any way I can think of will take a long time. __________________ 67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska

10-10-2003, 01:30 AM	#3
jorgensensc Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Cypress, Tx Posts: 4,005	I recently did this same thing. I can't really help you with the bolt problem. I say leave them in and raise the cab, but thats just my opinion. Be careful if your truck is still together. Make sure you disconnect the radiator shroud. I didn't and mine broke the mounting tabs. My front bolts near the radiator were completely rusted solid. Also be careful jacking up the cab from the front. Make sure you close the doors (for structural integrity) and watch the back of the cab so it doesn't hit the bed. Hope this helps some! __________________ 1972 C20 Suburban- Big Blue Betty '56 Chevy Bel Air Sedan- Frame up Restoration -What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?- -I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door- R.I.P. EAST SIDE LOW LIFE

10-10-2003, 03:04 AM	#4
crazy longhorn Fabricate till you "puke" Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ill Posts: 9,403	You might try a hole saw that almost fit over the head of the bolt. If you get a pilot hole started in the center of the bolthead, you should be able to cut the weld cleanly. That recess in the floor makes it tough to get much of any thing in. I just changed cab mounts(my bolts were not welded).......I think you will play hell getting the cab up 4 " on the front end with the truck assembled. Good luck,crazyL __________________ 69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears....

10-10-2003, 12:04 PM	#6
DMAN Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Benicia,Ca. Posts: 128	Mine were welded on also.I used a drill about the same dia. as the threaded section of the bolt and drilled through head.I then used a cold chisel on whatever was left. __________________ '71 Custom Deluxe K10, shortbed, fleetside.

10-10-2003, 03:42 AM	#5
lost wages Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: jefferson city, mo Posts: 1,364	mine were just tacked on, i took the nut off the bottom and used an open end wrench and it didnt take much to break th weld.

10-10-2003, 12:40 PM	#7
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,928	I just used a chisel to break mine free. If you leave them in you will have to raise the cab pretty high to get them to clear. __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"

10-10-2003, 03:23 PM	#8
Kid Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Kansas Posts: 702	A chisel and some sweat worked for me too. __________________ The kid Build threads: 51 Jimmy http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=154951 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=219902 http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...uck/index.html 68 C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=50348

10-10-2003, 04:25 PM	#9
Orion 762 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mississippi Posts: 36	I really appreciate the input on this. Somehow getting my cab up "4 inches" seems like too much of a challenge, so I'm getting some cold-chisels sharpened up. If that does not work . . . next up might be the cutting torch, or small charge of C4 (that'll loosen them up a bit!). I'll let you know how it goes . . . Thanks. Orion 762

10-11-2003, 02:27 AM	#10
Orion 762 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mississippi Posts: 36	A cold chisel, sweat, and a big cheater bar did the trick on those welds. Got the 4 main cab mounts installed, and "man" what an improvement. No more of that "squishy feel" and occasional "loud pop" going around curves! Thanks for your help . . . Orion 762



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