C30 Cab and chassis with 8'8" bed

[projectking]

Searched and came up empty!

I want to use a Longhorn bed on my C&C frame. The kick up is too high and won't allow the bed to sit level. Besides raising the floor what are my options?

Thanks,
Jon

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by projectking

Searched and came up empty!

I want to use a Longhorn bed on my C&C frame. The kick up is too high and won't allow the bed to sit level. Besides raising the floor what are my options?

Thanks,
Jon

What year is your frame? It is my understanding that all that has to be done to use a Longhorn bed on a '67-'72 133" wheelbase C&C is to widen the wheel tubs and install frame to bed brackets on the frame up by the cab.... here are a few threads on 72freaks Dually.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=307114

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=260748

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=272483

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=255207

LockDoc

[projectking]

Not sure what wheelbase it started out as,it's been shortened to 133".

[projectking]

Sorry, it's a '68.

[SS Tim]

The problem is two fold.

The 133" wheelbase frames kick up 5.16" above the center section top flange for the axle, then drop 1.70" behind the axle to 3.46" above the center section top flange height.

While the 157" wheelbase frame kicks up 7.10" above the center section top flange (almost 2" higher) and it does not drop back down.

Where yours has been cut and how it altered the height relation will need to be measured as a baseline.

Here are two C30s one a factory SRW 133" and a cut 157" to illustrate.

Don't have a lot of suggestions at this point except to maybe use a bodylift on the cab/fenders and notch the frame for the bed crossmembers that contact.

Been puzzling this out myself on a concept for a stepframe 4x4.

[projectking]

Thanks for the pic Tim, it's the 133" frame that I'm dealing with. Might of been swapped to repair damage? I removed the floor last night and cribbed the bed up level to see what it will take to make it right.

[special-K]

If your truck started out as a 157", I don't see a reasonable way to carry this out. I had one I bought in the '80s and before I ordered the utility body I considered making a dual rear pickup, till I considered the dip in the frame.

[72freak]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

What year is your frame? It is my understanding that all that has to be done to use a Longhorn bed on a '67-'72 133" wheelbase C&C is to widen the wheel tubs and install frame to bed brackets on the frame up by the cab.... here are a few threads on 72freaks Dually.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=307114

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=260748

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=272483

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=255207

LockDoc

What a fun build that was!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 72freak

What a fun build that was!

And still my favorite.... I am still going to build one before I kick the bucket. (I hope)...

p.s. You didn't have to modify your frame except to add the front bed mount brackets did you?

LockDoc

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by projectking

Thanks for the pic Tim, it's the 133" frame that I'm dealing with. Might of been swapped to repair damage? I removed the floor last night and cribbed the bed up level to see what it will take to make it right.

OK you lost me. If the frame was shortened to a 133" wheelbase then it won't have the rear dip profile the 133" frame has.
What are you asking about?
Do you have the model number on the SPID?
Pictures would be real helpful.

If you have a 133" the box should sit on the frame reasonably well. But the chassis cab frame will need to have the four front bed brackets/risers installed to provide a level line.

[projectking]

There's a welded seam behind the cab it's been tampered with, the frame has the dip. No SPID on the truck.

[SS Tim]

While I am here, this is a 157" (extended to the rear). It shows well the original top line and one of the optional F19 HD frame sill supports (on the left rail). These gave a factory level frame top line for body builders to work from.

[projectking]

Here's what I have, the angle iron has been removed.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by projectking

There's a welded seam behind the cab it's been tampered with, the frame has the dip. No SPID on the truck.

Have you measured the actual wheelbase? The only time I have seen a splice there (on a 1-ton) was to make a 127" or 115".

Without a SPID pitures are really going to be needed.

[projectking]

I posted a pic above, it's 133"

[SS Tim]

Without all the added angle before and after the axle the bed should fit correctly.

The bed's six actual contact points are two at the rear (direct) and four at the front on riser brackets you will need to buy or fabricate.

Here is a K20 frame showing the factory bed brackets and top line.

[SS Tim]

Lets try his again.
The bed has six actual mounting contact points, two at the rear (direct) and four at the front on riser brackets you will need to buy or fabricate. The bed crossmembers just in front of and behind the kick up more or less rest on the frame. The cross bed tie strips float over the kick up section of the frame.

Where is the bed not fitting correctly?
How is it not level?

[projectking]

I cut the angle off the frame. The frame touches the bed floor right over the axle not allowing the bed to sit low enough in the rear. I have all the frame supports off of a parts truck to put behind the cab.

[SS Tim]

So with the bed on the frame and the front at least blocked above the frame to the same height as the brackets, the rear bed crossmember sill that bolts to the frame is siting high? How much gap?

[projectking]

I removed the floor and installed the front two sets of brackets. The rear mounts are sitting on the frame. It appears to be roughly 1.5" high in the back which can easily be managed by notching the top of the rail.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by projectking

I removed the floor and installed the front two sets of brackets. The rear mounts are sitting on the frame. It appears to be roughly 1.5" high in the back which can easily be managed by notching the top of the rail.

Not picturing the issue here. Have you accounted for the spec. wood thickness (0.81")? It tabs on to the rear sill and bed front panel but sets (spaces) the front bed height between the bed crossmembers and the bedsides (angle flanges).

[projectking]

Yes, I have .75" wood in there.....not exact but close enough for now. Daylight pics will have to wait until tomorrow.

[72freak]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

And still my favorite.... I am still going to build one before I kick the bucket. (I hope)...

p.s. You didn't have to modify your frame except to add the front bed mount brackets did you?

LockDoc

You are correct...the new project required a little more work.