Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**gigamanx** · 11-07-2016, 10:58 PM

Hey all, digging further into my 1949 Chevy and running into some identification issues. For those who might have caught my previous threads, the truck is a 1949 but some components like the rear axle, transmission, and engine, are from a later year. The guess is 1960 because of the 235ci engine.

1. The ignition needs to be replaced but it matches none of my wiring diagrams I ordered. There are four wires. Left wire goes to the engine bay but is bare and not connected to anything. Center has two wires and I don't know what they are for. Right wire is definitely thicker maybe 10GA and goes out to the fuse box. I'm not sure it actually connects to a fuse box or just happens to route past it. Haven't found the destination yet but the wire is yellow with red flecks. What is the correct ignition to buy and where does that left wire connect to?

2. The brake master cylinder is pretty corroded. It seems easier just to replace it than try and restore it. I just want to be sure that I'm getting the right one if I order the 1947-1949 brake master cylinder. I'm basing it on the boot style.

3. The emergency brake seems to be the original and all of the rods are still there. When I depress the pedal it goes down and up but nothing under the truck happens. I noticed the pedal is somehow tied to this rod directly under the floor. I can't find a replacement for this anywhere. Any guesses on what I should look for? I am guessing from the rust that it doesn't move because the brake pedal is not attached to the bar that is supposed to turn.

thanks for all your help. The journey continues!

mr48chev · 11-07-2016, 11:55 PM

If the weather is good in the morning I'll try to tilt my 49 cab up on the trailer and get a decent photo of the park brake setup. The rod runs from it to the heavy round bar that runs from frame rail to frame rail back behind the trans.

On the ignition switch you should have hot from the battery (or connector between the switch and battery) in. one pole for the ignition and one for accessory. There is no hookup for start as you start it with the floor pedal.

On the master cylinder I would pull it off, take it apart and hone it out and see how it looks but I don't see a cap on it so I imagine you have the right plan there with replacing it.

**gigamanx** · 11-08-2016, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr48chev

If the weather is good in the morning I'll try to tilt my 49 cab up on the trailer and get a decent photo of the park brake setup. The rod runs from it to the heavy round bar that runs from frame rail to frame rail back behind the trans.

On the ignition switch you should have hot from the battery (or connector between the switch and battery) in. one pole for the ignition and one for accessory. There is no hookup for start as you start it with the floor pedal.

On the master cylinder I would pull it off, take it apart and hone it out and see how it looks but I don't see a cap on it so I imagine you have the right plan there with replacing it.

Thanks for checking. Its actually the piece immediately after the pedal. Some sort of rod that connects the pedal to the first rod linkage. I'm guessing it's supposed to turn to pull on the rod linkage, but mine doesn't budge. I just want to replace the part and can't find it on lmc truck or classicparts.

The master cylinder has a cap. I took this photo from underneath so the cap is on top. Its so rusted though that it looks like one piece lol. I'm afraid if I did get it off, all that rust would just fall into the brake cylinder. I just want to be sure I'm ordering the right one I guess. At $100 a pop, that's an expensive mistake.

dsraven · 11-08-2016, 11:30 AM

just as a primer on brakes for the old cars and trucks. if you didn't already know, they have a single system brake set up. that means the master cylinder has a single circuit that supplies fluid to both the front and rear brakes at the same time as a "one hydraulic system". if, for some reason, there is a leak or failure in any part of that circuit then ALL the brakes fail at the same time. that is the reason why newer vehicles have a dual system. there is still just one master cylinder bolted on in the same place but inside that cylinder there are 2 circuits, one for the front and one for the rear brakes. that way if there is a failure in, say, the rear brakes, you still have the front brakes to stop you until you get the vehicle to a repair shop.

on the the brake master cylinder, just buy a new one. unless you get it apart, honed, cleaned and inspected for pit marks in the bore and it comes out looking good. for the time spent on all that along with the money spent on a repair kit for fixing the old one you might as well just get a new one. that would also be the time to consider installing an upgraded master cylinder that has a dual system.

make sure you check all the steel lines as well as the flexible rubber lines while you are under there. with that rust on the underside of the truck the steel lines gotta have some thin spots too. if the rubber hoses have been untouched for years then they may also be suspect.

you may also want to check the wheel cylinders as well. I know, that means pulling the brake drums off, but it is well worth the time for peace of mind and the safety of you and everybody else on the road with you. besides, you will get to see what you have left for brake linings and also you can free up and lube the adjusters and get rid of any rust built up on the brake drums. you can also check the rear axle seals and clean and lube the front wheel bearings. this would also be a good time to ensure the brake bleeder screws are operational.

on the park brake issue, you can probably check online at the old car manuals project for an assembly manual for your truck. it will have a pictoral of what the system looks like and how to adjust it correctly. some of the parts suppliers, like lmc, brothers, classic industries, chevs of the 40's, jim carters, or others will have a parts breakdown showing the system components.

have fun, post pics, ask questions.

**gigamanx** · 11-08-2016, 02:48 PM

dsraven, I had pulled all the wheels off already just to check on things but without pressure in the brakes at all, I haven't been able to see if anything moves or not. I, at the least, got some brake cleaner in there and scrubbed it all down. The rust isn't terribly bad within the wheels but it still begs the question of where all the brake fluid went. The lines all look pretty good except for the connection to the master. I wouldn't be surprised if the master was where it leaked and that caused all the corrosion in that one area. The rubber lines need to be replaced. I noticed just about everything rubber has dried out and cracked. All the window seals, door seals, suspension parts. It'll be a long process to get the truck weather proof again.

dsraven · 11-08-2016, 03:39 PM

well, at least you looked and know. some guys don't bother and then bad things happen.
if you need a new master think about the upgrade. can even get power brakes that way. just make sure to get a master for front and rear drum brakes, otherwise you will hav problems if you get a master that is for disc front and drum rear.
have fun, post pics. ask questions.

mr48chev · 11-08-2016, 04:34 PM

Here is a different view of yours.

Here is a straight on view of mine.

You can see the lever on the end that moves the rod to the park brake that is kind of hidden behind the twig.

A little different view

a better look at the rod running back to the rear.
Still hidden behind the twig though.

My light weight 70.00 HF jack is a good helper on things like this.

dsraven · 11-08-2016, 05:11 PM

try this image I got from the net. should be close?

**gigamanx** · 11-09-2016, 12:12 PM

Yep that's the one. part #3687297 I am guessing if I take mine apart the shaft assembly is two pieces when its supposed to be one. I am guessing I'll find the pedal shaft is not connected to the rod anymore. Now to go find one!

dsraven · 11-09-2016, 01:06 PM

weldable repair?

**gigamanx** · 11-09-2016, 02:56 PM

That's where I'm headed next. It looks pretty straight forward if I need to fabricate the parts again if they are too far gone. The pedal lever looks fine inside the truck, so may just be the rod and joint underneath. I do find it odd that some parts of the truck are very corroded but other areas underneath just show a little surface rust. It seems the front drivers side has collected a majority of the issues.

11-07-2016, 10:58 PM	#1
gigamanx Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Hershey, PA Posts: 1,004	Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake Hey all, digging further into my 1949 Chevy and running into some identification issues. For those who might have caught my previous threads, the truck is a 1949 but some components like the rear axle, transmission, and engine, are from a later year. The guess is 1960 because of the 235ci engine. 1. The ignition needs to be replaced but it matches none of my wiring diagrams I ordered. There are four wires. Left wire goes to the engine bay but is bare and not connected to anything. Center has two wires and I don't know what they are for. Right wire is definitely thicker maybe 10GA and goes out to the fuse box. I'm not sure it actually connects to a fuse box or just happens to route past it. Haven't found the destination yet but the wire is yellow with red flecks. What is the correct ignition to buy and where does that left wire connect to? 2. The brake master cylinder is pretty corroded. It seems easier just to replace it than try and restore it. I just want to be sure that I'm getting the right one if I order the 1947-1949 brake master cylinder. I'm basing it on the boot style. 3. The emergency brake seems to be the original and all of the rods are still there. When I depress the pedal it goes down and up but nothing under the truck happens. I noticed the pedal is somehow tied to this rod directly under the floor. I can't find a replacement for this anywhere. Any guesses on what I should look for? I am guessing from the rust that it doesn't move because the brake pedal is not attached to the bar that is supposed to turn. thanks for all your help. The journey continues!

11-07-2016, 11:55 PM	#2
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,395	Re: Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake If the weather is good in the morning I'll try to tilt my 49 cab up on the trailer and get a decent photo of the park brake setup. The rod runs from it to the heavy round bar that runs from frame rail to frame rail back behind the trans. On the ignition switch you should have hot from the battery (or connector between the switch and battery) in. one pole for the ignition and one for accessory. There is no hookup for start as you start it with the floor pedal. On the master cylinder I would pull it off, take it apart and hone it out and see how it looks but I don't see a cap on it so I imagine you have the right plan there with replacing it. __________________ Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around.

11-08-2016, 11:30 AM	#4
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,914	Re: Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake just as a primer on brakes for the old cars and trucks. if you didn't already know, they have a single system brake set up. that means the master cylinder has a single circuit that supplies fluid to both the front and rear brakes at the same time as a "one hydraulic system". if, for some reason, there is a leak or failure in any part of that circuit then ALL the brakes fail at the same time. that is the reason why newer vehicles have a dual system. there is still just one master cylinder bolted on in the same place but inside that cylinder there are 2 circuits, one for the front and one for the rear brakes. that way if there is a failure in, say, the rear brakes, you still have the front brakes to stop you until you get the vehicle to a repair shop. on the the brake master cylinder, just buy a new one. unless you get it apart, honed, cleaned and inspected for pit marks in the bore and it comes out looking good. for the time spent on all that along with the money spent on a repair kit for fixing the old one you might as well just get a new one. that would also be the time to consider installing an upgraded master cylinder that has a dual system. make sure you check all the steel lines as well as the flexible rubber lines while you are under there. with that rust on the underside of the truck the steel lines gotta have some thin spots too. if the rubber hoses have been untouched for years then they may also be suspect. you may also want to check the wheel cylinders as well. I know, that means pulling the brake drums off, but it is well worth the time for peace of mind and the safety of you and everybody else on the road with you. besides, you will get to see what you have left for brake linings and also you can free up and lube the adjusters and get rid of any rust built up on the brake drums. you can also check the rear axle seals and clean and lube the front wheel bearings. this would also be a good time to ensure the brake bleeder screws are operational. on the park brake issue, you can probably check online at the old car manuals project for an assembly manual for your truck. it will have a pictoral of what the system looks like and how to adjust it correctly. some of the parts suppliers, like lmc, brothers, classic industries, chevs of the 40's, jim carters, or others will have a parts breakdown showing the system components. have fun, post pics, ask questions.

11-08-2016, 02:48 PM	#5
gigamanx Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Hershey, PA Posts: 1,004	Re: Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake dsraven, I had pulled all the wheels off already just to check on things but without pressure in the brakes at all, I haven't been able to see if anything moves or not. I, at the least, got some brake cleaner in there and scrubbed it all down. The rust isn't terribly bad within the wheels but it still begs the question of where all the brake fluid went. The lines all look pretty good except for the connection to the master. I wouldn't be surprised if the master was where it leaked and that caused all the corrosion in that one area. The rubber lines need to be replaced. I noticed just about everything rubber has dried out and cracked. All the window seals, door seals, suspension parts. It'll be a long process to get the truck weather proof again.

11-08-2016, 03:39 PM	#6
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,914	Re: Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake well, at least you looked and know. some guys don't bother and then bad things happen. if you need a new master think about the upgrade. can even get power brakes that way. just make sure to get a master for front and rear drum brakes, otherwise you will hav problems if you get a master that is for disc front and drum rear. have fun, post pics. ask questions.

11-08-2016, 04:34 PM	#7
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,395	Re: Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake Here is a different view of yours. Here is a straight on view of mine. You can see the lever on the end that moves the rod to the park brake that is kind of hidden behind the twig. A little different view a better look at the rod running back to the rear. Still hidden behind the twig though. My light weight 70.00 HF jack is a good helper on things like this. __________________ Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around.

11-08-2016, 05:11 PM	#8
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,914	Re: Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake try this image I got from the net. should be close? Attached Images

11-09-2016, 12:12 PM	#9
gigamanx Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Hershey, PA Posts: 1,004	Re: Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake Yep that's the one. part #3687297 I am guessing if I take mine apart the shaft assembly is two pieces when its supposed to be one. I am guessing I'll find the pedal shaft is not connected to the rod anymore. Now to go find one! Last edited by gigamanx; 11-09-2016 at 12:18 PM.

11-09-2016, 01:06 PM	#10
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,914	Re: Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake weldable repair?

11-09-2016, 02:56 PM	#11
gigamanx Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Hershey, PA Posts: 1,004	Re: Help identifying parts -- ignition, brakes, e-brake That's where I'm headed next. It looks pretty straight forward if I need to fabricate the parts again if they are too far gone. The pedal lever looks fine inside the truck, so may just be the rod and joint underneath. I do find it odd that some parts of the truck are very corroded but other areas underneath just show a little surface rust. It seems the front drivers side has collected a majority of the issues.



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