Goodmark inner roof patch

[drewbert41]

Has anyone bought/ installed this? I thought that no one made these but I recently saw someone mention it in a bodywork post. Pics please if you got em.

[RyansToy]

I bought it and the cab floor, but put the truck away for the winter before getting a chance to install.

It is pretty much what is in the picture. Is there a feature you are looking for?

http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/ch...3-495-672.aspx

[tlmoore2501]

I had to install this panel in my 67.It is not bad to install.You need a spot weld cutter for drill and a cut off air tool.Once you get the patch fitted back in place just slowly stitch it together.I plug welded the spot weld holes around window frame and ground them down smooth.The windshield rubber will hide them once installed.I did mine with the cab on the frame.If you have the cab off the truck,I would flip it on its back.Many of my work pants have burn holes from welding the panel over head.

[drewbert41]

Anyone else install this?

[hugger6933]

Yeah, I put one on that customers truck I'm doing. It was one of the easiest panels I have done on this truck. It may have been one of the quickest as well. I do have the cab on a tilt flipper dolly and I stood it on the door opening and crawled in the windshield hole and stood up and did the work halfway down then flipped the cab over to the other side then did the other half.
I would rate it a 4 on the difficulty meter. Getting started is the worst part. Trim off some access panel hold it up and in my case, I clamped the panel on place and cut along the edge and then removed the old cleaned up the inside area and then fit the patch and weld it up.
Now if you grind the bottom side of the spot welds and grind through the part to be replaced but not into the pinchweld you can have a good solid foundation to weld the pinchweld. If you have to drill out the welds well then get a piece or two of copper pipe. I got some scrap from a wreck truck I had come in and placed the smaller pipe inside the bigger if was a good fit, and then hammered that pipe flat. It makes a great heat sink for welding up spot welds and because it won't stick you can turn up the heat a touch just to assure the full completion of the spot weld. Good luck if you need any help I can help with holler. Jim

[drewbert41]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

Yeah, I put one on that customers truck I'm doing. It was one of the easiest panels I have done on this truck. It may have been one of the quickest as well. I do have the cab on a tilt flipper dolly and I stood it on the door opening and crawled in the windshield hole and stood up and did the work halfway down then flipped the cab over to the other side then did the other half.
I would rate it a 4 on the difficulty meter. Getting started is the worst part. Trim off some access panel hold it up and in my case, I clamped the panel on place and cut along the edge and then removed the old cleaned up the inside area and then fit the patch and weld it up.
Now if you grind the bottom side of the spot welds and grind through the part to be replaced but not into the pinchweld you can have a good solid foundation to weld the pinchweld. If you have to drill out the welds well then get a piece or two of copper pipe. I got some scrap from a wreck truck I had come in and placed the smaller pipe inside the bigger if was a good fit, and then hammered that pipe flat. It makes a great heat sink for welding up spot welds and because it won't stick you can turn up the heat a touch just to assure the full completion of the spot weld. Good luck if you need any help I can help with holler. Jim

Thanks for the info. You would think this would be more popular than it is. Seems easier than swapping roofs by chopping the pillars that I have seen on here.

[hugger6933]

I've done that too tons of times but mostly on rollovers. I would cut through the windshield post and across the floor. In the rebuilder biz that is called a clip cab. In fact I did this truck that way as it had huge rust damage to the roof and then later I found the inner panel damage hiding. See even what you think is a good part has rust lurking. It never stops growing own its own someone has to stop it if it is to be stopped. See, the General NEVER put anything between the two panels before putting a part together [at least on this body style of truck] Inside of the doors bare never treated metal. Inside the bedsides where the two are joined, bare metal. The cab is the same way that is one huge reason the rust issue is a large one to deal with.

[drewbert41]

Mine is rotting through behind the visor because someone left it in a field with the roof lights removed. . . .

I installed some yankee 77's there just to plug the holes until I do the body. I don't think anyone could take a roof panel off and not discover rust. I guess leaving unexposed metal bare was the norm back then.

[crakarjax]

Anyone have success shooting something in the panels to convert the rust and seal it up? I was thinking of shooting a wax substance in my panels after some rust converter but I'm not sure that's a good long term solution.

[drewbert41]

There was a thread on here about that recently. I remember them saying spray foam is a no no. Not sure what they recommended.

[chuckmc8]

Subbin in here for future reference

[special-K]

You don't have to buy this Key Parts item that Goodmark sells from Goodmark. I have one I bought from a vendor at Carlisle. Anyone who sells sheet metal for these trucks can hook you up. They actually are popular and very available, have been for a good while now. Ask a site supporting vendor, they'd be glad to help.

I think people do whole tops for other reasons. This rust gets down in the seam and is a deeper fix than just this panel. A lot comes together over the windshield. I have a cab I want to replace the top on that rusted through under the cargo light and around the window frame. That header panel is fine on that cab.