Starter Problem

[hdixon]

Have anyone had a problem with there starter when attempting to start it makes a really awful noise. I have a 1969 step side C-10 with a SBC 400 and I have replaced the flex plate using the old starter the problem got a little better but still can here the that noise. I have replaced the starter with a new one and it worked great for a few days and then that awful noise can back at this point I am lot and need help.

[coreyjhen]

Check the engagement between the starter drive and the flexplate. There are usually some shims in there that determine the depth of engagement, and you may not have it shimmed right.

[hdixon]

thanks for the reply what would make it work well for a short time and then start back to making that noise?

[coreyjhen]

That's what made me think of the shims. It might sound fine until the teeth start to eat each other.

[davepl]

Any chance you put the flex plate on backwards? That'd do it... and it's an easy mistake to make.

[hdixon]

I'm pretty sure I have it on wright it was making this noise when I purchased the truck a little while ago I have the starter out and I will install a shim and check it with a paper clip to see how much clearance it has. I will send the new starter back and use the original one that was on the truck when I purchased it. thanks everyone for there support I will keep you posted on the out come I hope this dose it this has been a nightmare

when trying to start the truck it sound like the starter is kicking out from the fly wheel or flex plate

[geezer#99]

Too much timing will make it kick like that.

Do you have the correct knurled shoulder bolts and a starter brace?

[hdixon]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Too much timing will make it kick like that.

Do you have the correct knurled shoulder bolts and a starter brace?

I purchased a set of knurled bolts from Jegs however they don't fit my starter they are to big the starter dose have knurled bolts currently on it I also believe it it is not correctly timed I have been playing with the timing and I'm sure it out of timing I don't have a timing light so I put it as could. I have a friend with a timing light I will try to time it correctly and go from there thanks I will keep everyone posted on the out come.

[hamjet]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Too much timing will make it kick like that.

Do you have the correct knurled shoulder bolts and a starter brace?

Also make sure the knurled shoulder bolt heads are tightened against the starter case tight.. I purchased a rebuilt starter with bolts onceand they were slightly too long...

[hdixon]

Originally Posted by hamjet

Also make sure the knurled shoulder bolt heads are tightened against the starter case tight.. I purchased a rebuilt starter with bolts onceand they were slightly too long...

thanks,

[kaycee]

Another idea is if it starts right 1 or 2 times then grinds you may need the front brace to keep the starter from flexing flexing.

[hdixon]

Originally Posted by kaycee

Another idea is if it starts right 1 or 2 times then grinds you may need the front brace to keep the starter from flexing flexing.

I never heard of a front brace is this something I can buy at the local auto part store

[ratty69]

Originally Posted by hdixon

I never heard of a front brace is this something I can buy at the local auto part store

Here's a thread with a pic and part numbers:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=492532

[geezer#99]

Pic here.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=537319

Summit has them. Your local parts place might.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...4353/overview/

[hdixon]

I have no problem buying a brace for the starter however will the brace work on a mini starter. I see the brace mostly on factory starter.
yesterday I had a few tip about shimming the starter so I remove the starter from the block and added 2 shim across both holes on the starter it appears to have made a bit of a different but still grinding notice that when trying to start the engine when it has compression up it kick the starter back should I put another shim on one side? what I was going to try next is measuring the clearance which I have not done yet never did starter clearance check before any thoughts

[ratty69]

Originally Posted by hdixon

I have no problem buying a brace for the starter however will the brace work on a mini starter. I see the brace mostly on factory starter.

Do you have a mini starter? If yes, is it a GM one? This link shows the old style starter and the GM type pmgr mini starters side by side. It also lists the part numbers of the CORRECT bolts to mount them. They are NOT the same as the knurled bolts for the older starters.

http://www.remyautoparts.com/The-Lat...PG-%28PG260%29

As for a brace for these new starters, I've never seen one anywhere except on industrial 4 cylinders. You'd have to make one...

[hdixon]

one thing that stays on my mind is I purchased a new starter and it worked fine for a few days and after that it starter back to making that grinding noise again so I put the old starter back on and return the new one this is driving me crazy so you don't think it is a shim problem with the starter? going to start back on it tomrrow

[ratty69]

If it worked for a few days and then started grinding, my money's on the starter loosened up. Wrong bolts or holes wallowed out ( from wrong bolts ). Is it a brand new starter or reman? I've seen remans with the holes already wallowed out.

[hdixon]

I will change the bolts but yes the new starter was fine for a few days of cranking this is when I thought I had fix the problem but as I mention the noise came back I need to fine out what is the correct size for the Jeg starter that is mounted

[ratty69]

Also, when you have the starter off, have a very close look at the bolt holes in the block and surrounding metal. Sometimes it cracks from too much starter movement over time and then no starter will stay tight.

[hdixon]

wow do that mean new block needed

[71 super]

I have same problem with 383 in my 68, flywheel is on correctly and starter is shimmed. If you come up with anything please share as it is completely aggravating

[hdixon]

Originally Posted by 71 super

I have same problem with 383 in my 68, flywheel is on correctly and starter is shimmed. If you come up with anything please share as it is completely aggravating

I left mind along for a few days but I will go back to it and I will post if anything change this is out of control I have a place near me that they work on starter only he ask me to bring him my starter and the old flex plate that I replaced and he will look it over and and tell me what he see wrong by looking at the flex plate and the starter going to go there tomorrow just need to take the starter off again for 100 time if you come up with something post it also

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I had this problem with a new starter. It may not have been the starter after all, but I replaced it with another. Yes I used shims on both, but I didn't work out the problem until after I installed a new battery. That was my experience anyway.

Just remembered, that first starter was "special" I returned it to Napa and they said it wasn't there's. I may have gone off some, wasn't happy. So yeah, it was probably bad.

[1quik70]

i have fought starter issues on my last 2 big blocks, but never with a small block. On my 11.5 to 1 396 the only thing I found that fixed the issue was a high torque mini starter. On my current 454, I had a combo of a bad flex plate and no brace causing the issue. I ended up just putting a mini starter on it as well. I would bet there is just enough wear in the flex plate to cause the grinding, it may only be in one spot which is the reason it works fine for a while and then grinds depending on where the engine stops when you turn it off.