Check list for crate install

[dirish]

OK mechanic has motor at the shop, waiting for
A little space, then he'll start. I would like to buy
The break in oil, filters, and other fluids in advance.
I will have him install the new transfer case as well.
I have the seals/gaskets, but need fluid.
Any help on a list would be great, I'm not a mechanic, and don'twant to miss any thing.
Sbc 350/290hp th350 4x4 1972 Blazer
Thanks Dan

[NRFD79]

On any new install that I do here's my list.

New water pump. Not a fan of Reman
Spark plugs. A/C delco
Spark plug wires..
Thermostat
New Belts
New Hoses including Heater hoses.
Make sure motor mounts are good. Alot easier to change now for not much money

Nothing worse than getting that new motor looking great and having to tear it back apart to fix a misfire or get it all dirty from a coolant leak. Then you should be good for at lease another 60k

[dirish]

Originally Posted by NRFD79

On any new install that I do here's my list.

New water pump. Not a fan of Reman
Spark plugs. A/C delco
Spark plug wires..
Thermostat
New Belts
New Hoses including Heater hoses.
Make sure motor mounts are good. Alot easier to change now for not much money

Nothing worse than getting that new motor looking great and having to tear it back apart to fix a misfire or get it all dirty from a coolant leak. Then you should be good for at lease another 60k

Thank You! I've got all that, and some of the driven break in oil. I'm stoked to be this close!

[67ChevyRedneck]

Is this mechanic a friend or an actual shop?

If a shop, I would tell them you want the motor broken in properly with break in fluids.

When you supply the materials for a shop to use, you set yourself up for liability. If the engine fails on start up, they can claim you gave them the wrong oil, etc.

A great example is windshields, if you have a shop install one and they break it, it's on their dime. If you supply the windshield and they break it, you're paying for another windshield.

[NRFD79]

Not sure what oil you use after break in But I highly recommend brad penn if you can get your hands on it. We use it on all older cars and trucks. Has a high moly count to protect your cam. Comes out of the bottle a dark green looks dirty but its the good stuff.

[dirish]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Is this mechanic a friend or an actual shop?

If a shop, I would tell them you want the motor broken in properly with break in fluids.

When you supply the materials for a shop to use, you set yourself up for liability. If the engine fails on start up, they can claim you gave them the wrong oil, etc.

A great example is windshields, if you have a shop install one and they break it, it's on their dime. If you supply the windshield and they break it, you're paying for another windshield.

Mechanic is a friend who owns a garage. Been using him for 20 yrs. Definitely good advice. I'm actually having to wait in line, He does a lot of the muscle car projects in area. I'm about a week out, I hope weather holds, I hate to put the top back on.
Using Joe Gibbs "Driven 10-40" . All the test analysis show it very high in quality. The also make a oil for our old stuff, for the daily driver oil, high in zinc.

[dirish]

She's off to the shop, new transfer case as well.
I didn't drive it cause it was 36 degrees, and my son
Was going with me.