Woodall doors?

[uk71]

Has anybody used these doors or any other brand that fit good?

[Grumpy old man]

They're all the same an require tweeking to fit . read some threads were the striker area varies from drivers to pass side . there was talk of a new better fit door being produced but i've never seen them yet ?

[hugger6933]

I just spent the better part of last week gapping a set of aftermarket doors. I'm getting ready for trimming out the cab and doors with paint and decided I could not avoid it any longer. The cab had a good bit of work done to it but the OE doors were used to set all the gaps to begin with. Now the owner wanted new doors so the fun was to be had. I even ended up cutting the window hoop loose from the spot welds and dropping it down in the door cause it was too tall. When I first put the vent glass in[ I used that to check the window hoop height at first it was sticking up over a 1/4 from where it had been in the OE door. Good luck on your fitment. It is possible

[LockDoc]

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I think the hole for the door latch is in the wrong position on the drivers side repo door on my '72. I have tried all of the tricks I know to get it adjusted, to no avail. I can get a good gap all the way around but the striker is adjusted up as far as it will go and still won't latch correctly. Next spring I am going to cut the latch area out of a junk door I have and weld it into the repo door. I also have a new '67-'68 hood & passengers side door that a guy gave me because he couldn't get them to fit. Bad part is he painted them silver before he checked them for fit.... Bad idea!!!

LockDoc

[hugger6933]

I think my doors said Musclecar GT on the sticker on the door but said something different on the box. The latch areas do seem to be slanted or clocked differently. For example the latch on the OE doors being straight in the door would be 12'oclock. the latch hole in the doors [aftermarket] are at about 10:50ish meaning they are turned to the inside of the truck.

Another issue I ran into was the bottom of the door. The rocker gap was impossible to get right with that door cause it was nowhere near straight along the bottom. I had to correct that with a metal cuttoff blade on the angle grinder. I used a similar motion as you would if removing the skin with a grinder. I just didn't have to go through the skin to correct that issue. I was prepared to work it over even if I had gone through the skin I was gonna get what was needed plus a little bit then weld up the skin back to the door as I had already invested a good bit of shop time to the door. My customer said he was trying to help me out by getting new metal and was blown back by the fact it took almost a week to get them where I was happy. A lot of people that don't do this all the time or don't do a lot of it have no idea it takes so much labor to build these things. I told one customer you just don't see how much work gets done on one of those TV shows during the commercial breaks.

The bottom line is this the new door will fit it may take getting creative and doing things a person would never attempt to a OE door or even think about it needing. Like the two brand new doors I just put on, one needed the window hoop dropped and both needed work along the bottom.[A speed square and a long level will blow your mind comparing the door bottom with a OE] See I have five or so more doors laying around my shop and having that luxury to just try another door or even fit up another door [or fender or hood or whatever your having trouble fitting is a great help]

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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I think the hole for the door latch is in the wrong position on the drivers side repo door on my '72. I have tried all of the tricks I know to get it adjusted, to no avail. I can get a good gap all the way around but the striker is adjusted up as far as it will go and still won't latch correctly. Next spring I am going to cut the latch area out of a junk door I have and weld it into the repo door. I also have a new '67-'68 hood & passengers side door that a guy gave me because he couldn't get them to fit. Bad part is he painted them silver before he checked them for fit.... Bad idea!!!

LockDoc

This ^, make sure you fit your latches and strikers prior to paint! I've been dealing with this issue for the past month on a painted truck..... I'm pretty sure the stamping on BOTH doors is not correct. I'm modifying the strikers to make them work, but very frustrating

[special-K]

Is it Woodall who made all these doors or are these new stampings being asked about?

[uk71]

Thanks guys for your info. on these doors. I will wait till after Christmas and will keep looking for some GM rust free doors. There are people on this forum that build lots of these trucks. this is my granddads truck and the only one I will redo so i will be asking a lot of input into this truck. thanks

[hugger6933]

Good luck finding the rust free doors. The problem there is [along with a bunch of other panels] there is and was no rust protection between the panels. None of these trucks had any they in many cases are just plain ol naked sheetmetal. You will find corrosion and that sucks cause I have taken some of my best doors and cut off the skin[to repair some damage]and found my rust free door to be a little past surface rust inside. It makes me wonder how long some of the redone doors are gonna last. I am not doing this to bring anyone down just giving info that I know for fact. Oh, the doors I have used said Musclecar GT on them[ never heard of them] I talked via e-mail to the people about the ill fitting doors and they told me" they fit many many truck and maybe it was my truck being a different year or model from what was it to fit". Many many truck yeah well I finally got them to fit one. I knew what needed to be done on the one I cut the hoop on but the customer was a little slower to come to that finding before I did it. I am pretty sure he didn't want to watch me cut open a door he just paid a bunch of money for but that is what it took

[hugger6933]

I didn't mean good luck like good luck you will never find them I meant good luck I wish you well.

[Grumpy old man]

currently the highest price increase over the last few years are VERY clean original drivers doors , There for a while it was buddy buckets but even those have come down , 8 " wide steelies are being drug out of the barns , I think the premium piece of metal now would be a 292 4x4 cross member . Buy rebuildible titled cabs and if you can find them sitting on a short bed frame all the better ,and hoard them everything else can be bought aftermarket / good used and without a cab and title you have nothing .the prices will just continue to climb for a while ....But if you notice even the $100,000.00 Camaro's are now $40,000.00 . ride the wave for 10 years then take notice of the next HOT hot rod

[special-K]

Back to the doors. There had been a second stamping produced and I'm wondering if anyone knows who makes them, how well d they fit, and which of these doors commented on might be of this stamping. I've been saving good OEM body parts ever since these trucks started rusting out.

[718jwh]

I purchased a supposedly new stamping door and it did not fit, hoop was to high and bottom issues ended up returning it had to pay the return freight and found a used door. I don't think anyone makes a repro door that fits like an OE

[hugger6933]

I feel better now that someone else has found the hoop to be too high. It is work to drop it down but not a whole lot I had the hoop loose in less than 10 min or so after I finally decided to drop it. But it a person is not comfortable cutting parts to fit I see how it could be problematic.

[special-K]

That's the same issue the first ones had. I don't get it. Can't things just be made correctly? Here we have an opportunity to make and sell thousands of doors, and all the effort and expense put into doing that, and they are crap that nobody wants

[LockDoc]

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I think it depends on who is putting them in the jig to weld them up. Obviously there is some slop in the welding jig, otherwise they would all come out exactly the same, all wrong or all right......

LockDoc

[special-K]

Yeah, I guess they aren't all bad. I guess it's a crap shoot. The earlier ones were requiring more than cutting loose and adjusting

[69-72]

The doors I bought wouldn't even close, the latch edge of the door literally overlapped the body after bolting it on. Problem is in the hinge area, it wasn't formed deep enough.

I've tried dealing with Woodall on issues on another body panel problem with one of their parts, I was quickly put on their ignore list while attempting a resolution, very poor customer service.

[pappy 2]

So the moral is, find some salvageable original doors, patch them up and be done. I picked up an original fender the other night, and the fellow had 3 sets of salvageable 67-72 c-10 doors, as well as one door for a van or suburban.. Anyone interested and willing to pick up in the heartland, contact me.

[Nsanehotrodz]

We just finished this '68 cab today with new doors from www.nsanehotrodz.com

[special-K]

Are you saying you make doors with no issues?

[LockDoc]

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The rest of the story is when you bolt the cowl vent and front fenders on....

LockDoc

[rob32472]

The Moral of this story is do you fix rust or massage sheet metal. If you are building a show truck and want perfect gaps then you will probably have to work the gaps either way. I have seen plenty of factory stuff fit like crap too. IMHO its like anything we do in life once you pic your path you will have to put some work into it to make it work. I have built trucks both ways and both required a lot of work to get the sheet metal to a point I was happy.

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by rob32472

The Moral of this story is do you fix rust or massage sheet metal. If you are building a show truck and want perfect gaps then you will probably have to work the gaps either way. I have seen plenty of factory stuff fit like crap too. IMHO its like anything we do in life once you pic your path you will have to put some work into it to make it work. I have built trucks both ways and both required a lot of work to get the sheet metal to a point I was happy.

Very well said and I agree, I am not arguing the fact that there is issues with fitment from after market panels but I have had the same issues with oem parts, the hoops on my oem doors are not perfect to the cab by no means.

[67c10rustbuket]

I think I have heard several times on here that "Apex" has new tooled doors but never heard of anyone actually getting a set and confirming they were any good. May just be a unicorn like the monster buck I miss every year... It might have been GMCpaul that mentioned apex, I don't remember.
I believe a Nsane sells the same triplus parts as most but he is a very talented body man.