NAPCO C-50 Chevy restoration

[Dannny B]

I searched Craigslist for 292, hoping to find an engine for my 1960 F-600. I found a listing for a 292 Chevy in a C-50 4wd. It was in an out of the way town in the mountains and still hadn't sold. Nobody goes to Bodfish, Ca. I drove up there to look at it. It looked pretty good and the girl wanted $ 4,000. She had gotten the truck from her father before he died and she didn't want to sell it. She needed money and I bought it.
I got it without the flat bed because I plan to put a 10ft. fleetside bed on it. It had some rust on the hood but, she had an extra that was fine. It has a bit of rust in the corners of the doors but, not too bad.
I have a place up in Oregon and I'm sure that the truck will spend some time in the woods. Knowing this, I started painting the truck with Rustoleum. If I can't avoid scrapes and scratches, I can at least make it easy to touch up.

I've painted lots of stuff and the variouis vids on youtube show good methods for spraying thinned-down Rustoleum to get a very good surface.
The truck has 6 widow-maker rims,,, just like my F-600 had. it has lots of tread so, I can take my time looking for 20s or 22.5s
Reportedly, her father rebuilt the 4-speed and rear diff. It has a rockwell transfer case. Not sure about the axles. She took me on a test drive and it runs nice. It has the 292 but, I have no objection to that. I could drop in something else but, I don't plan to haul heavy loads.

I've unbolted everything that was removable. Everything is primered, painted and undercoated. I still need to do the doors. The cab is mostly painted. I'm using Valspar enamel hardner in the paint.
The engine has an MSD distributor and box. Reportedly, her father worked on the brakes. It only has a single master cylinder so, I'm going to take them apart and check. It needs new flex lines.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28...ps9nyw5p3i.jpg

[C10 - C90 Bill]

Looks good.

Nothing wrong with a 292. It's actually one of my favorite engines.

Keep us posted on it.

[j.kirn]

Good looking truck, the front axle is more than likely a Napco axle

[Dannny B]

I found the NAPCO sticker in the cab. I'm moving along well with the painting. The truck has the Rockwell transfer case. I learned something new while looking for wheels. You can buy wheel blanks and drill them to fit.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/kuMAAO...8zI/s-l300.jpg

[sweetk30]

post up the real ebay link please . . .

do you need new stickers ? I have some extra from the ones I had made for the truck I am doing .

and I cant ever get your photo bucket album to open up for me . . .

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Here's one....

[Dannny B]

My sticker is in good shape because it is up high towards the roof. I suppose that i could put one on the glove box. Next thing I'm looking for is the fender emblem. http://www.classicpartsusa.com/produ...blems_and_Trim
I have the SM 420 trans. It is missing the long lever and release rod for the parking brake. It is also missing the little banana shaped piece that has teeth. If anybody knows of these parts, LMK.
I've got some rust in the rockers that is kinda a problem for the running board mounts. One of the running boards was lost? and replaced with something funky from another truck.

I'm getting the seat done,,, it was bad. I tried to re-install the windshield and broke it. Come to find out that the new weatherstrip is about 3 times as thick as the old one. There just isn't any way to get it past the pinch weld.
I took the sheet metal off to de-rust and paint it. The truck is so tall that I had to leave all the sheet metal off until the windshield is installed,,, no place to stand.
I have 2 Hone overdrives and an under-over 4 sp Brownie. I'm thinking of using an overdrive for the highway. I'll just use direct when the t-case is in.
I found blank 22.5 rims but, they are 8.25 inches wide. I prefer something closer to stock. Aluminum rims would really set it off nicely.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181277587905...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Dannny B]

If anyone on the East coast is motivated and needs a project, there is a fine looking Chevy with a Marmon-Herrington drive train and an Allison trans.
http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/5927793488.html

[Dannny B]

Well, I'm making progress. Need to take some pics. The truck is painted dark Hunter Green. All the glass is in. The weathersrtip is in. Almost impossible to shut the doors with the new weatherstrip. I'm still looking for the running board. The junkyards in the mid-west want to sell me later parts.
I searched the threads looking for numbers for radiator hoses. No luck. NAPA ordered me a set of hoses for a c30... even though I told them c50.

If anybody has numbers for a 1965 c50 with a 292, let me know. I'm still looking for bed-sides to splice together.

[Dannny B]

It's getting there.
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28...pslguayurb.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a28...pskdm2kcn5.jpg

[Dannny B]

Just in case somebody has the 292 and needs radiator hoses, I will post the numbers that i found. I took stiff steel wire and bent it to go from the inlet to the water pump and from the outlet to the thermostst housing. They flow well from the center of the tubes. No sharp turns. I put tape on both ends with the diameters listed. Then, I went to Napa and compared my wire forms to EVERY hose on the racks.
I finally found a top hose that was close to perfect. The lower hose was a different story. I found a good hose but, it wasn't aligned quite right. I cut it in the middle and rotated it 1/4 turn. I slipped in a short piece of copper pipe and it lines up very nicely.
The numbers;
7473
8949
I have a 1970 Power Wagon with a Chevy crossflow radiator and a Cummins "B" engine. I used big copper elbows and straigh hose for that project. I also built a Hilux with a MBZ 5 cyl diesel. I just bought long hoses with lots of bends and cut out the sections that looked right.

[Dannny B]

I couldn't drive the truck without looking at the brakes AND inner axle seal. The diff was WAY down and I feared that the inner axle seals were bad. I took the whole thing apart. I'm posting numbers in case somebody else is looking for parts.
I didn't remove the inner seals.
The ID is to fit an axle of 1.58 diameter. The iD of the axle tube is 2.25
The inner bearing is a 566
The outer bearing is a 33269
The ilder bearing for the hub is a 6011X/C78. Any double sealed 6011 will work.
The gasket for the hub is a !C05 Fel Pro...Open the iD by about .080 with a drum sander
The hub seals are 416125 national

The shoes are 2 X 14
The drum number is GF-1 11100 2X14
The wheel cylinders are stepped with 2 diameters,,, 1 1/8 + 1 3/8
Instead of running a short shoe & a long shoe, they varied the cylinder pressure. You can use a 1 1/4 cyl. One shoe will just wear a bit faster than the other.
The right wheel cylinder is P/N 6000. The left side wheel cylinder is P/N 5999 Wagner

The Warn hub is a M19
It uses 2 snap rings and a circlip. The snap rings are W354 and W168.
I don't have a trade number for the circlip. The number at McMaster Carr is 97633A429.
The main drive pins in the hub are 1/4 X 1 inch and very easy to find. There is a small pin in the hub that faces outward and locates the last part that is assembled. The outer lock knob. This pin is 3/16 X 9/16

The flex brake hoses are a bit tired and I'm going to change them also.
The ends are HF1FX12 and HF1M16

I've ommited the spindle nuts and nut locks because that is still a work (disaster) in progress.
I got a good deal on a pair of 6-lug 22.5 wheels. I won't have any trouble in welding up the 6 holes and redrilling 10. The truck will never be very heavy so, I'm not worried about running radials on the old weak rims.
I have a 1960 F-600 boom truck that only weighs 6200 lbs. I run the tires with very low pressure.
Next chore will be the back brakes.

[sweetk30]

between your thread info and mine I think we have more info in the last few months put up on the web for these old napco front axles. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=725284

[Dannny B]

I'm going to carry your seal number over to this thread;
"got my skf / cr 16650 seals yesterday ."
I read your specs on the oil for the trunions. I never really liked the idea of using oil. I've always used that blue marine grease.
Note to anyone who doesn't already know. Be sure not to lose or mix the shims for the upper and lower bearing caps. IF you lose them, you can buy sheets of shim stock and cut it with scizzors and punch the holes with a Whitney punch.

[sweetk30]

that grease / oil stuff is NOT thin like oil . . . its thick as snot . . I heated it up good and warm on the wood stove and it was still fun getting it in the hole.

[Dannny B]

Have you thought of loading the grease into an empty tube for the caulking gun? Old silicone caulking tubes clean up nice. You can take out the zerk fitting and pump it through the hole.
Does anybody know what thread is on the spindle? It appears to be something like a 2 9/16- 18. I want new spoindle nuts.

[sweetk30]

it went in fairly easy when warm with grease fitting out and nipple on bottle .

its thickness and stickiness is fun in its own bottle I would have not wanted to do it 2 x times with calk tube in the mix .

altho you can get it in calk tubes or 5 gal pales but must order a lot and most of use would be hard pressed to use a 12 pack of tubes or 5 gal bucket worth .

[Dannny B]

Just an update on the parts. Decades ago, many manufacturers built with oddball parts so that you would have to buy spares from them. Thousands of Harleys are asembled with 1/2-24 bolts.
Evidently, Warn and NAPCO did the same thing. The 10 drive pins in the Warn hub are NOT .250 ,,,they are .245.
Spindle threads are in even fractional sizes like 1 1/2,,, 2.0 ,,, 2 1/2, etc.
The spindles on the NAPCO axle are about .030 bigger than 2 1/2. I machined up a socket to fit the spindle nuts. They had already been chisled several times.
A friend made up some pins for me. The original pins are hardened but, they run against aluminum so, I'm using mild steel.
Next stop is; the rear brakes.

[Dannny B]

At Some time in the remote past, my '65 lost a set of duals. The spindle nuts came off and everything came out. The weight of the truck landed just on the axle shaft. This distorted the spindle tube and elongated the threads. "They" just beat it all back together. It took me an hour each to get the 2 spindle nuts off.
Fortunately, OTC makes a thread chaser for just this problem. It has interchangeable dies for threads from 4 threads per inch to 20 threads per inch. My spindle is 16 threads per inch. The v-shaped guide is made of aluminum so, it doesn't flatten the tops of the threads when you turn it. I just worked it back and forth until it cut the threads deeper into the spindle tube.
I found new / used nuts at an old shop that has tons of stuff lying around.
I made nut sockets for both front and rear. Obviously, you can't go all the way around. The cutter die falls into the key-slot.

For those of you who find yourself taking apart the front hubs, you must removed the 3/8-24 allen bolt in the CENTER of the axle. You must also use the 2 7/16 NC threaded holes in the hub to force off the hub AFTER removing the center bolt.

[Dannny B]

The wheel cylinder kits for the rear axle are Dorman 19381.
The rear axle oil seals are National 6358.
The wheel studs are Euclid, E-5683
I put the rear brakes all together and the drum wouldn't go on. I took it all apart and put each wheel stud in the lathe. 4 had runout. I bought 6 studs and pressed in 6 new and 4 old. It STILL didn't want to go together. I used a BFH and got the drum and wheels on.
I have no idea how they assembled it previously with so many bent studs.
I put it all together and bled the brakes,,, good pedal.
Next day, no pedal. It turns out that one of the front, stepped wheel cylinders had pits in the larger diameter. It didn't leak previously because, the piston and cup sat out just enough to be off the pits. When I put in new shoes, it pushed the cup back to the pits.

White Post Restorations will repair ANY hydraulic brake cyl. They press in a brass sleeve and hone it to size. They give a lifetime warranty. They charge $ 125 per wheel cyl. I considered the various options for repair. I ended up filling the back part of the cylinder with JB weld. There isn't any mechanical load so, why not?
I just need to bore it in a lathe and re-assemble.

The front NAPCO diff was almost out of oil when I drained it. It was oily around the pinon seal. I went to Hooper Rear End Exchange in Sun Valley 91352
I told them that the front diff looked pretty close to what the rear diff looked like. Amazingly, the guy brought out a seal that fit perfectly.
ABI 411330N the original seal was a C/R 25966

The headligth switch, of all things, is giving me fits. Sometimes the knob/shaft would lock in,,, sometimes not. I bought 3 new ones that did the same thing. Still working on that one.
The pinon seal installs from inside the housing. it all comes apart easily. I read the various literature and retorqued the pinion nut to 350 ft. lbs.
I still have to run up to oregon and get my second bed to do the stretch to 10ft. That's the next big project.

[Dannny B]

Progress

[C10 - C90 Bill]

Looking good.

[Classic v6 GMC's]

Looks great! Going to be a cool truck.

[Greg63]

Looks promising.
Greg.

[Dannny B]

Thanks guys. You notice that the bed doesn't require tubs for the wheels. The floor will be square and flat. Obviously, the bed will be too high to unload by hand. i'm building the typical scizzors type dump mechanism. The bed doesn't really look like it is 10 ft. long but, it is. The tires (22.5) stick out about 3 inches beyond the fenders. I'm pretty sure that plastic flare material will cover it OK.