Clutch advise

[Mfsbuell]

Hi all, Mike here in Tracy California.
I have a 1971 c10 lbw base model 3 on the tre 250 6.engine.
Does anyone have part numbers for the "long and short" through out bearings.
I though I had a clutch issue as rod adjustment is way to the end of the rods end, thread wise .
Looking at the pressure plate edge on it has same thickness as the New kit I got from oriely auto.
And there was a thread about out of adjustment being the fault of the different t o bearing.
Ideas?
Cheers
Mike

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Mfsbuell

Hi all, Mike here in Tracy California.
I have a 1971 c10 lbw base model 3 on the tre 250 6.engine.
Does anyone have part numbers for the "long and short" through out bearings.
I though I had a clutch issue as rod adjustment is way to the end of the rods end, thread wise .
Looking at the pressure plate edge on it has same thickness as the New kit I got from oriely auto.
And there was a thread about out of adjustment being the fault of the different t o bearing.
Ideas?
Cheers
Mike

Welcome to the board Mike. The pressure plate and flywheel usually don't wear that much. The clutch disk is what wears and it doesn't take a lot of wear to make a big difference it clutch travel. If the throwout bearing isn't turning it will wear the face of the T.O. bearing and the pressure plate fingers. There is quite a bit of difference in the throwout bearing length between long and short. Do you know which pressure plate you have now, Diaphram or Borg & Beck style? You have to use the short T.O. bearing with the diaphram pressure plate and the long T.O. bearing with the Borg & Beck pressure plate.....

LockDoc

[Mfsbuell]

The kit comes with the diaphragm type as far as I can make out.
To get more free travel in the pedal nuts in or out? I have less than one inch to end of rod.
Cheers
Mike

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Mfsbuell

The kit comes with the diaphragm type as far as I can make out.
To get more free travel in the pedal nuts in or out? I have less than one inch to end of rod.
Cheers
Mike

You would have to shorten the rod length to get more free travel so the nuts and centering spacer/pivot would have to screw on the rod more. It doesn't take much to make a lot of difference so only go one or two turns at a time

LockDoc

[Wrenchbender Ret]

If you bought the clutch kit it will have a matching TO brg. Your linkage may be worn at the pivots causing excess play & adjustment.