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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 726
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Lowering the front by cutting springs?
I am cutting down my springs until I get money for bags. It I want 2in lower, do I cut 2" of sprnig off? Can someone who has done this give me some advice.
Thanks
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1978 Chevy C10 Currently under resto. 350 Getting face lift. .060, JEpistons, Modify heads. More will come with money. |
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#2 |
yeller
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13,824
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It would be more like 1/2 to 3/4 coil. I would suggest buying 2" drop springs instead. If you cut the spring you sacrifice ride quality more than using drop coils.
-Jeff |
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#3 |
BeWarE tHe eViL CrAnkTOe!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Yukon, OK
Posts: 3,605
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Here is some advice....DONT DO IT!!!! LOL
And dont heat it either!! ![]() Refer here .... http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/s...threadid=11148
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~Dave~ You can call me Mike, Mike Oxlong - 1986 Chevy SWB - Stock for now - 1986 Chevy Custom SWB *Stolen 6/26/05* - 1985 Chevy SWB SOLD - 1999 T/A Some mods ![]() www.cardomain.com/id/ramairdave AIM Screenname - Jester84 |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 4,703
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I also do not recommend heating or cutting.
If you do decide to do it anyway, cut it. Heating is a bad route to take. Before you cut your springs measure your wheel well lip to the ground on each side. Then cut off a small amount like 1/4 to 1/2 coil and then see how she sits. It may take some time to cut and install, but you want each side to be perfect and match. If one side sits higher at the start, I would make that side sit higher by the same amount before cuts.
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* AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION * |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 726
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I plan on getting bags soon. So it doesnt really matter if I have to deal with a rough ride for alittle while. That is crazy!!(the pic)
Thanks for the advice Phoenix. I will go with that route. Mike
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1978 Chevy C10 Currently under resto. 350 Getting face lift. .060, JEpistons, Modify heads. More will come with money. |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: north wilkesboro nc
Posts: 221
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If you do it you have no other choice than to take a full ring or the spring will not seat into the lower arm. one ring will get you 2-3 inch drop depending on how wore out the spring is.if you put good shocks on and get an alignment you wont suffer to bad of a ride.but i would only consider this temperary.good luck
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Scott |
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#7 | |
Trucker.
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 1,364
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Quote:
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,132
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by houston6
If you do it you have no other choice than to take a full ring or the spring will not seat into the lower arm..... [/QUOTE This is not an accurate statement. The bottom winding of the coil is what seats in the 'notch' in the lower control arm. You could cut 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, or 1 whole coil & it won't make a difference because the end of the coil (cut or un-cut) is still the end, & it still fits in the notch just the same. I would also disagree w/the statement that even w/1 coil removed the ride quality suffers. 1 coil or less will have a very minimal impact on ride quality. I've actually compressed a cut coil vs. a stock coil from the same truck & the rate increased about 10-15%. A typical stock 1/2 ton truck coil is around 350PPI so even w/15% your still below 400PPI. 2 coils is a different story because there isn't enough spring rate to compensate for the now limited suspension travel so it starts bottoming out easily. Now, I'm not just saying this because I don't use drop coils on either of my trucks. I have used them when the application warrants their use. I did a complete bell tech drop on a 90 model 1/2 ton 6cyl, 5spd, swb truck for a roomate. With the drop coils that came w/the kit, it rode rough. I told him to drive it for a while & see if the system settled w/a better ride. It didn't & I was suprised because it was the complete drop kit & everything was designed to work together. The solution..... I wacked a coil off his stock springs, put it back together & it rode like stock. I'm sure someone else has had different experiences..... my advice is to cut a coil first (using a cut-off wheel, not a torch) since its free. See if you personally notice a change in ride quality before buying aftermarket drop springs. If you want more drop.... get some spindles. But you guys know about opinions.......
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: north wilkesboro nc
Posts: 221
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with the way the top of a spring fits in the upper arm and the way the bottom fits in the lower you have to take 1 complete ring for it to sit properly on 73-87 period!!whether it is different on a later model I do not know but this is based on my exp.lowering my truck
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Scott |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,132
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Do the tops of the coils seat in a fixed position?
On 64 & later chevy trucks, the upper arm has nothing to do w/the top of the spring. The only thing that I'm aware of on 67 & later trucks that secure the top of the spring is a small formed lip that drops from the top of the spring pocket inside of the front crossmember. On the bottom, you just need to make sure the end of the spring is fully seated in the notch within the spring pocket of the lower control arm.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: north wilkesboro nc
Posts: 221
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On my 86 the top of the spring is shaped kinda like a D and it fits into a kinda D shaped lip in upper control arm.im not sure if all is like that but my 86 is and i imagine that his is too i beleive his is a 78 or 79
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Scott Last edited by houston6; 10-15-2003 at 03:18 PM. |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Porterville,Ca.
Posts: 118
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Been running with 2 cut coils for the last 20 yrs(Truck was dropped one month after I bought it) and it has a nice ride. If you cut the coils cut from the bottom and cut whole coils only to seat em', 1 cut coil is about a 2in. drop, had the truck dropped by Ca Truck Works in SoCal and had the coils cut and a spacer kit installed in the upper A-arms to bring the alignment back in and eliminate the bow in at the top of the wheels, also has the flip kit in the rear, when done right you'll have no problems with cut coils.
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Clute, TX.
Posts: 1,938
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1/4 coil = 1 inch drop. a buddy told me 1 coil for 2 inches so i did it. i put the original coils back. i learned from my mistakes DONT DO IT. but if you do remember 1/4 coil = 1inch drop
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2004 Silverado Crewcab 1972 Chevy Monte Carlo 2017 Chevy Tahoe |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 726
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Thanks for all the advice. I am taking this all into consideration. I will be cutting them this weekend. If any one else knows any tricks, please let me know.
Thanks, Michael
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1978 Chevy C10 Currently under resto. 350 Getting face lift. .060, JEpistons, Modify heads. More will come with money. |
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#15 | ||
Insert Witty Text Here
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 3,415
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Quote:
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