I need "the list" for my 65 c10

[Buckthetruck]

After several years driving my '65 C10 a little I am in the position where it has become a "needed" vehicle a little more which is making me want to make it more drivable. For the most part it is stock everything. The previous owner swapped out a different l250 and put in a 4 speed on the floor. Driving it around, the drum breaks are a little iffy, it floats all over the road, and the steering is a workout.
What I am looking for are the best/must dos.
What is a good fit 5 speed to install?
Is there a great kit or donor swap for disc breaks and better suspension? (I am not looking to drop it much, if any)
Is it better to go all new or grab parts from other years that got? What years swap directly, if any?

I know this info is all over the forum, but there seem to be a dozen ways to do something so I want to hear the favorites.

Thanks

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Buckthetruck

After several years driving my '65 C10 a little I am in the position where it has become a "needed" vehicle a little more which is making me want to make it more drivable. For the most part it is stock everything. The previous owner swapped out a different l250 and put in a 4 speed on the floor. Driving it around, the drum breaks are a little iffy, it floats all over the road, and the steering is a workout.
What I am looking for are the best/must dos.
What is a good fit 5 speed to install?
Is there a great kit or donor swap for disc breaks and better suspension? (I am not looking to drop it much, if any)
Is it better to go all new or grab parts from other years that got? What years swap directly, if any?

I know this info is all over the forum, but there seem to be a dozen ways to do something so I want to hear the favorites.

Thanks

The S10 T5 5 speed is the most common swap and has proven to give great results.
Replace the drum brakes and you'll be surprised how much better they work. Especially with a booster and dual cup master cylinder.
Rebuilding the stock suspension and steering will also be a great improvement. Just new steering components would help a ton. Cheap and easy mod would be a front sway bar.

[AcampoDave]

Good shocks, and seatbelts. I'm with TJ on the brakes but want to add, have the drums turned, when you, re-do those shoes

[slepysal]

I added a Pertronix electronic ignition ,upgraded to an internal alternator.
Power steering,and power disc brakes. Changed the rear end to a 3.73.
And as mentioned seat belts.
Waiting to swap in a T5 .

[Buckthetruck]

Thank you. It is good to hear that just replacing the stock is great to hear. Would this go into replacing all the bushings and stuff? Basically getting rid of all old rubber?

[AcampoDave]

Sure stock stuff can work well. My '64 longbed is mostly all original. I did however upgrade the master cylinder to a dual resivoir and lowered it a bit with new springs, lowering shocks and relocators. Otherwise, I simply restored everything to a "like new" or "very good" condition. It's a pleasure to drive and I often take it out for day trips. It's just like being transported back to the sixties and being behind the wheel of a new truck. Of course one needs to bear in mind that traffic was lighter back then and cars were limited by the technology of the time. I simply cruise around 55 at speed and I always allow a bit of distance between me and other motorists. The original equipment works together well. Trouble begins when folks increase the power and weight of a classic vehicle while ignoring the brakes (and/or worse) chopping up the springs without correcting the geometry. Lowering and modifying suspension is fine, but there is definitely a right and a wrong way to do it..., and big motors and trannys need stronger stuff to accompany them. Edit: a few other changes I made were installing a 3.08 rear axle, an h.e.i and as TJ said, a front swaybar

[JohnC1964]

Hey Buckthetruck !

I'm in the same boat as you. I have a 66 C10 Longbed all original also. Suspension, bushings, rearend, steering, auto tranny with a 350 in it. I would be interested in hearing your progress and what changes you will be making. I'm in Waxhaw, NC not too far from you. Hope the changes you make work well for you and your truck. I'm definitely a manual tranny guy and will swap out the auto for a manual 5 spd for sure, and rip out all old front and rear end for all new disc brakes and also thinking of lowering it.
Send me a post if you would like, as mentioned good luck with your truck, have fun and I am sure you'll be happy with the changes.
Peace, John

[LostMy65]

I think of safety first, wants second.
Stopping is #1
Or maybe Steering should be #1.
Stopping and Steering are #1.

[jocko]

If it were mine:
1) POL 6 lug front disk kit and invest in 5 qty (or at a minimum, 3) K5 steelies (stock look, clear disks, hold our caps w/nubs). I'd use CaptainFab's booster bracket in this swap and make em power disks. If this is too expensive, then at least do a dual res mc (stock 67 truck or Impala mc works and minimal new brake lines are required) and re-do the drums and get new shoes.

2) Power steering. Buy a rez or other bracket from someone on here and then a box/res/brackets/hoses and go for it. Many have done this - lotsa threads.

3) bushings, shocks, tir rod ends, as needed, etc.

4) Ditch the 6... (again, if it were "my" truck ) for a rebuilt 283 or 327.

5) T5 swap

Do in order until you run out of money or the wife threatens to leave. Unless you want her to, in which case, add a new stock interior redo and a/c

[verdell]

Years ago after finally getting my truck road worthy, I drove 3 hours to an annual Super Chevy event and wrestling the manual steering and manual brakes was a chore to say the least. With that being said, I'd seriously consider: power disc brakes, power steering, front suspension rebuild, quality shocks, front sway bar. Made one hell of a difference. Plenty of aftermarket kits and parts are available for your year model too..

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by verdell

Years ago after finally getting my truck road worthy, I drove 3 hours to an annual Super Chevy event and wrestling the manual steering and manual brakes was a chore to say the least. With that being said, I'd seriously consider: power disc brakes, power steering, front suspension rebuild, quality shocks, front sway bar. Made one hell of a difference. Plenty of aftermarket kits and parts are available for your year model too..

What motor do you have in yours? The manual steering on my 66 was pretty easy. Might be because I had a 450 pound 292 in there.

[verdell]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

What motor do you have in yours? The manual steering on my 66 was pretty easy. Might be because I had a 450 pound 292 in there.

I have a 383/700r4 with dropped spindles and torsion bars turned down. Give me the power steering any day...

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by verdell

I have a 383/700r4 with dropped spindles and torsion bars turned down. Give me the power steering any day...

Yeah it's a little heavier, you probably have wider tires of front as well. I have factory power steering in my 64 GMC....Love it, especially since it's a work truck. But I kept manual steering on my 66...one less belt and one less thing to worry about. haha Who knows, may get it one day.

[AcampoDave]

A friend of mine bought a '64 with a power steering adapter complete with a sleeve for the stock column ( It didn't come Captain Fab or Rez but rather a large warehouse supplier. ) and it screwed up the the geometry to the stock column so badly that the bearings got wasted. Now he's got to install a d-shaft with a u-joint as well as a column.

[Buckthetruck]

I have a 250 in it, and plan to keep the 6 in it. I want to do the T5 swap, which I think will help keep the rpm down. (45-50 and it sounds like it is going to take off or explode!). It looks like i will work on rebuilding the front end some and am going back and forth on redoing the drum breaks or going with disc breaks. I want the disc breaks, but it seems (from comments here) that redoing the drums and getting the better dual resivoire master.

Thanks for "the list" help!

[AcampoDave]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=460791 courtesy of ChiefRocka. He used an Impala m/c. I used a '69 c10. Looks the same tho'

[AcampoDave]

Another low cost improvement which really makes things more pleasant, is to plug up any open holes or air leaks in the firewall. It's surprising how much noise and heat can come thru even a small space.

[shp4man]

I can live with the 6 banger and even the SM420. I kind of like the way they sound, but I'm seriously thinking about a front anti-sway bar for my truck. About $180. Makes corners nicer.

[curvedglass]

My three cents - my 63 has the stock 230 3-spd

Weber 2 bbl on an adapter from langdons.
HEI ignition
Front power disc / rear drum brakes
2 inch drop spindles
I have the 6 bolt 4x4 rallies
radial tires - 235x75x15
rebuilt entire front end.
with the six it steers easy enough BUT many turns to get the job done.

Previous owner put in 3.08's and I avg 17.8 - 18.2 mpg. I drive 80 miles a day. Truck doesn't get out of it's own way though. Bought an old school 3 on the tree overdrive. Once that is in then I go back to 3.73

[sags]

I asked the same question when I bought mine a couple years ago - a 1965 with a 250 (which turned out to be a 230), 4 spd on the floor. To date (and in order) here is what I have done:

I cleaned and adjusted the brakes as the very first thing. Mechanics actually tried to convince me to keep them.

1. Wife sprung for having the seat redone. Added seatbelts.
2. Disc Brake swap front including power brake booster and dual mc, TR ends- kept the 6 lug. Seriously, I called Langdon's asking about headers and carbs the first week I bought. And although I am squarely in middle age, Tom answered the phone and said to me, "young man, the very first thing you must do is upgrade to disc brakes." When Tom speaks, many of us listen!
3. Found out from the brake swap where I added 2" drop spindles that the previous owner had cut a little more than I thought so I went back in with proper drop springs (2") and shocks. Raised the front up an inch and a half and keeps it from bottoming out. Also did 4" drop springs and shock relocation on the rear
4. Added front and rear sway bars. This makes a huge difference as the truck stays under you around corners. Was going back and forth about power steering but like the old school except after days at the gym.
5. In the effort to resist V8 fever from the costs associated with having my engine rebuilt, found a 230 on craigslist that was rebuilt with the paper work, repainted with the exact same tranny. Just as my engine had an HEI, so did the new one and also had a Petronix ignition. Swapped these and sold the old motor and trans.
6. New radiator.
7. I have Clifford headers in a box in the garage and will be getting clifford intake and carb soon. That should hold me for a while - approaching three years now.

Have fun with whatever you choose. Mine is not a daily driver and I have toyed with the idea of T5 if only to get rid of the granny gear.

[Buckthetruck]

Is the T5 transmission the world class or not? I am guessing thT I just need to be sure it doesn't have the electronic speed cable.

[curvedglass]

Originally Posted by curvedglass

My three cents - my 63 has the stock 230 3-spd

Weber 2 bbl on an adapter from langdons.
HEI ignition
Front power disc / rear drum brakes
2 inch drop spindles
I have the 6 bolt 4x4 rallies
radial tires - 235x75x15
rebuilt entire front end.
with the six it steers easy enough BUT many turns to get the job done.

Previous owner put in 3.08's and I avg 17.8 - 18.2 mpg. I drive 80 miles a day. Truck doesn't get out of it's own way though. Bought an old school 3 on the tree overdrive. Once that is in then I go back to 3.73

--forgot to add front and rear sway bars to the list. It is nice to corner once in a while!

Sags - you are correct. When Tom Langdon speaks pay very close attention.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Buckthetruck

I have a 250 in it, and plan to keep the 6 in it. I want to do the T5 swap, which I think will help keep the rpm down. (45-50 and it sounds like it is going to take off or explode!). It looks like i will work on rebuilding the front end some and am going back and forth on redoing the drum breaks or going with disc breaks. I want the disc breaks, but it seems (from comments here) that redoing the drums and getting the better dual resivoire master.

Thanks for "the list" help!

Your C10 should have 3.73's I think. Which would put the engine at 2500 RPM at 55 pending on tire size. If yours if a GM 12 bolt it should be 3.73. I'd put a tach on there and see what your RPM's are. May sound like it's screaming but it's not. When I did 55 with my 64 GMC I thought it was doing 3K rpm when it was only doing 2500!

If you plan to spice the 250 up a bit, I would do a set of Tom Langdon's headers, offy intake, and HEI. You can choose a 4 or 2 barrel. I'd stick with a small 4 myself....Like find a good 390 holley. Oh yeah! Not to mention there is Tom Lowe's 4 barrel holley mod. What it does is you plug one of the primaries off so it turns it into a 3 barrel. Mileage increases and you still have the secondaries for some added benefits. lol He did it on the 250 in his station wagon. With 2.57 rear gears that 250 hauls that car with ease And get's 25 MPG.

[Buckthetruck]

Would the factory a/c from a v8 1965 c10 be able to bolt to/install in a 1965 c-10 with an online 250? Would pretty much everything on a longbed stepside work on a short bed stepside of the same year (except the drive shaft and bed?)

[Buckthetruck]

Update: in talking with a local shop owner while having another car worked on, it was suggested to keep the 4 speed that I have and get the brakes done first along with the suspension updates to make it more drivable. He said it would be much simpler and cheaper to swap out the gears in the rear and instead of the transmission. My truck has a "farm gear" in it designed for pulling at low speeds, which makes sense for how it drives. It is time to apart putting the parts inline for getting installed!!!!