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10-14-2003, 08:20 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 1,321
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Will NEW leaf springs lower my truck more with a flip kit?
I'm currently running a DJM flip kit on the rear of my 75 C10, with the stock 75 leaf springs (6 pack). If I were to put a NEW set of leaf springs (6 pack) on, would it lower the rear of my truck more because of the bigger arch? (Bigger arch, because no spring sag, because brand new springs)
Thanks guys. |
10-14-2003, 08:45 PM | #2 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
Posts: 9,402
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No, it will most likely raise the truck....
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
10-14-2003, 11:03 PM | #3 | |
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 1,321
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Quote:
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10-15-2003, 01:04 AM | #4 |
Try spinnin 4 rear tars
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 757
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Nope...
more arch means that the spring is farther from the frame, which means that your axle will be lower, causing your truck to ride higher. If you do a spring-under on your truck with the current springs, you will lower your truck by how thick the spring pack is. If you get new springs of the same type (OE replacement springs) They will be somewhat taller until the settle (keep in mind that your current springs may also be sagging causing the truck to ride a little lower than it did when it was new). So, if you did a spring-under conversion and still wanted to go even lower, you could add a little block between your spring pack and your axle.
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SWEET7T 1970 C10, 2wd, LB, 307/TH350/3.08. PS, PB |
10-15-2003, 01:07 AM | #5 |
Try spinnin 4 rear tars
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 757
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whoops... just realized that you already did the spring-under flip. But the rest still applies.
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SWEET7T 1970 C10, 2wd, LB, 307/TH350/3.08. PS, PB |
10-15-2003, 05:40 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,399
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whatever you do, dont block it. use shacles and/or hangers if you want to go lower. the guy who invented lift/drop blocks should be shot.
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10-15-2003, 07:06 PM | #7 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
Posts: 9,402
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Blocks are ok.....provided that you dont get carried away! I have used lift blocks on the rear of a 4x4, & not had any problems. the set I made were 2 1/2". I have seen guys stack blocks on a 4x4 to get 6-8" of lift(a no no). also i have seen guys run blocks on the front of a 4x4(a big ugly no no!). On the same hand , using lowering blocks on a 2wd , you must take care not to do too far.....you dont want suspension pcs below the rim , incase of a blowout. That makes a lot of "pretty sparks",& is no fun to control good luck,crazyL
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
10-15-2003, 07:57 PM | #8 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elkhart, IN
Posts: 6,399
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blocks on any truck that is built to race is a hideous idea. Tim stated in an earlier post that he has intentions of racing his truck in the future. the extra forces exerted on the suspension under competition circumstances can very well cause the truck to spit the block out. not to mention the increased axle wrap and decreased traction. you would just be adding to a problem you've got already. we all know these trucks wont hook for squat.
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10-15-2003, 08:24 PM | #9 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ill
Posts: 9,402
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I didnt see anything about racing......but yes , I do agree. The blocks will add to the leverage factor & cause more problems. To be totally honest......for racing, toss the leaf springs & go ladder or 4 link crazyL
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
10-16-2003, 10:30 AM | #10 |
Try spinnin 4 rear tars
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 757
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I agree with CrazyL, and 1fastc10, if you plan on racing your truck, the spacer blocks will cause more leverage on the spring pack causing spring wrap = less traction & axle hop.
If racing this truck... why not go with a design that is better for it?! Just like CrazyL said, throw a 4-link, ect under that truck!!! If $$$ doesn't allow a new rear suspension setup... you may want to look into putting on a longer shackle (this will cause the back of the spring pack to move up and lower your truck by 1/2 of how much longer the shackle is over the stock length. If you installed a shackle say 4" longer than the stock one, it would lower your truck by ~2") Keep in mind that this will change your pinon angle, if there is too much of a difference, you will need to use shims to correct your pinon angle. Another idea is to just move your complete spring perches up on the frame. Just take measurements and keep everything lined up. Good Luck
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SWEET7T 1970 C10, 2wd, LB, 307/TH350/3.08. PS, PB |
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