Bought LMC body molding. Don't like the fit

[Absolute home]

I don't like how sloppy it fits. Any tips on making it fit snug?

[Kennuck]

Any pics? Are you using the bolt on or stick on fastening strips?

[Gromit]

When I removed my trim soon after purchasing my 1970 C10 Custom 10, I found the entire back of the trim next to the body and paint had packed itself with mud; which I assume had been dust forced in by the wind turbulence while driving and accumulated and then turned to an adobe brick like substance.

I thought this unsatisfactory but I needed time to research and scheme so I carefully removed all the original trim with nylon trim removers and then bought at set of #10-24 aluminum nutsert rivets and a cheap riveter from Harbor Freight and installed those nutserts in the trim holes in the body sheet metal ; and then bought a like number of button head 10-24 stainless steel allen head bolts with stainless steel washers and nylock nuts - (I also had some nylon washers that I layered underneath the SS washers to keep from marring the paint) probably best to buy about 100 of each to fill all your trim holes.

The overall effect doesn't look too freakishly bad IMO - the button head allen bolts plug the trim holes in your sheet metal and it will seal everything up against dirt and water while you decide what to do about fastening the trim.

I decided to just leave the allen bolts in place because most good women will not mind and will still date a guy who drives a truck with button head allen bolts in the holes where his aluminum trim snap-in plastic fasteners and trim would normally go.

[jim-bob]

I'm trying to picture this but it would be easier if you just give some pics..

[Gromit]

Okay, here you go..

This is just to temporarily plug all the factory trim holes against water and dirt and for about $20 for the tool and rivet nuts; then maybe $10 for the SS 10-24 x 1/2" button head allen screws.

The 10-24 tpi size is just as far as I remember - I might be wrong - it may have been 1/4-20 tpi - but those sizes come in the Harbor Freight kit too.

This works for plugging other trim holes as well - such as around taillights and in the tailgate while you gather new old stock or OEM trim parts or decide what to do.

The photos are just some I googled "rivet nuts" or "nutserts"

They make them in bronze or stainless too but the Harbor Freight one with a supply of various sizes of included aluminum rivnuts for $17 is good.

The attached photo entitled "top.jpg" shows about what the rivnut looks like installed and on the body trim side. The allen screw goes in there of course.

My ace hardware had the nylon washers to go under the button head allen screw/ss washer system to seal and protect the paint - but even if you scratch it that part of the paint will eventually be covered by the trim so maybe no biggie.

Hope that helps and good luck! - These are soft aluminum so they should be removable when needed without too much trouble.

[88Stanger]

im interested in how the harbor freight parts work.

[jim-bob]

Originally Posted by Gromit

Okay, here you go..

This is just to temporarily plug all the factory trim holes against water and dirt and for about $20 for the tool and rivet nuts; then maybe $10 for the SS 10-24 x 1/2" button head allen screws.

The 10-24 tpi size is just as far as I remember - I might be wrong - it may have been 1/4-20 tpi - but those sizes come in the Harbor Freight kit too.

This works for plugging other trim holes as well - such as around taillights and in the tailgate while you gather new old stock or OEM trim parts or decide what to do.

The photos are just some I googled "rivet nuts" or "nutserts"

They make them in bronze or stainless too but the Harbor Freight one with a supply of various sizes of included aluminum rivnuts for $17 is good.

The attached photo entitled "top.jpg" shows about what the rivnut looks like installed and on the body trim side. The allen screw goes in there of course.

My ace hardware had the nylon washers to go under the button head allen screw/ss washer system to seal and protect the paint - but even if you scratch it that part of the paint will eventually be covered by the trim so maybe no biggie.

Hope that helps and good luck! - These are soft aluminum so they should be removable when needed without too much trouble.

Hmm ..I was hoping to see them installed on your truck as you stated..

[Gromit]

Sorry I don't have a digital camera at the moment and I don't have a photo showing this detail - I did look in my archives.

Also I remembered I only used the nutserts where I couldn't reach the back or reverse side of the trim hole.

In most of the trim holes I just used the button head allen screw with a stainless washer and a nylon washer, and then on the inside (for example inside the door or fender panels) I just used a nylock nut. (so just the 10-24 x 1/2" screw and nut, no nutsert or rivnut is required on those holes).

So to say it again and another way you only need what I will call aluminum nutserts for the blind trim holes like in the tailgate or the very front two holes on each door, or any other holes that are hard to get to the back of.

Or another example where you might use a nutsert is if you don't want to remove your fender liners to get to the two or three trim holes in the part of the front fender panel that is behind (toward the back of) each front wheel.

Hope that makes sense I'm trying my best to explain and I agree it is tough to imagine without a photo. I think if you have a supply of those button head allen screws and SS washers and nylok nuts on hand and just start taking off your trim you will see what to do. Basically just plug up the trim holes with button head allen screws

[jim-bob]

Originally Posted by Gromit

Sorry I don't have a digital camera at the moment and I don't have a photo showing this detail - I did look in my archives.

Also I remembered I only used the nutserts where I couldn't reach the back or reverse side of the trim hole.

In most of the trim holes I just used the button head allen screw with a stainless washer and a nylon washer, and then on the inside (for example inside the door or fender panels) I just used a nylock nut. (so just the 10-24 x 1/2" screw and nut, no nutsert or rivnut is required on those holes).

So to say it again and another way you only need what I will call aluminum nutserts for the blind trim holes like in the tailgate or the very front two holes on each door, or any other holes that are hard to get to the back of.

Or another example where you might use a nutsert is if you don't want to remove your fender liners to get to the two or three trim holes in the part of the front fender panel that is behind (toward the back of) each front wheel.

Hope that makes sense I'm trying my best to explain and I agree it is tough to imagine without a photo. I think if you have a supply of those button head allen screws and SS washers and nylok nuts on hand and just start taking off your trim you will see what to do. Basically just plug up the trim holes with button head allen screws

..Not your fault..At my old age I don't comprehend as well as I use to but I'm gettin' the "pic" thanks Gromit

[Absolute home]

Originally Posted by Kennuck

Any pics? Are you using the bolt on or stick on fastening strips?

They are on the tailgate that is the worst. They clip on the trim, a springy wire clips in the back side of trim then you line it up with the holes in the tailgate and they snap in, but not tight at all sloppy loose. The fit over the gate handle trim is ugliest. I am trying to upload the pictures

[Kennuck]

I used Mar K trim and clips on my tailgate they work very good nice and tight, hope I never have to take them off.