Saddle Tanks for 73-81 fit a 1970?

[bthodges]

Hi, brand new so if this posting is in the wrong place let me know.

I have a 1970 Chevy C20 Longhorn. I would like to remove the in cab gas tank and put saddle tanks under the bed. Does anyone know if the standard saddle tanks from 73-81 will work on the 1970? These are easy to obtain as opposed to the hard to find auxiliary tanks that were an option for the 1970.

Will they work? Will it take much modification? Any advice will help.

Thanks,

[special-K]

No, won't work. This question gets asked a lot, though. The tanks run up under the cab and on '73-ups the floor is raised under the seat to accommodate the tank(s)

[bthodges]

Thanks for the quick response. This helps, I can stop wondering about that option and keep looking for some used original tanks.

[Ironhorse]

Wish you weren't so far away, would make you a deal on a single saddle tank still on a '70 3/4 CustomCamper/20 I am parting. Still has the manual floor mounted cross over switch. Waiting for warmer weather to get back to removing it.

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

Wish you weren't so far away, would make you a deal on a single saddle tank still on a '70 3/4 CustomCamper/20 I am parting. Still has the manual floor mounted cross over switch. Waiting for warmer weather to get back to removing it.

bthodges, you might want to consider paying the shipping, these tanks are very hard to find...

[bthodges]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

Wish you weren't so far away, would make you a deal on a single saddle tank still on a '70 3/4 CustomCamper/20 I am parting. Still has the manual floor mounted cross over switch. Waiting for warmer weather to get back to removing it.

Hi Ironhorse, Any guess on what the shipping might be? I don't know how much these things weight, but I would be interested in the tank you have along with the cross over switch. Thanks

[Ironhorse]

Originally Posted by bthodges

Hi Ironhorse, Any guess on what the shipping might be? I don't know how much these things weight, but I would be interested in the tank you have along with the cross over switch. Thanks

Have no idea what the weight would be, have never parted a truck before that had saddle tanks. New territory for me on those plus the fact our weather keeps bouncing back and forth from 30's to 60's, crazy. May be a bit before I get it pulled but when I do I will contact you and see if still interested. At that time I will have a weight and dimensions for the tank and can get a decent shipping estimate. No idea what shape the cross over valve is but being a manual valve I would think it can be cleaned and re-used.

[bthodges]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

Have no idea what the weight would be, have never parted a truck before that had saddle tanks. New territory for me on those plus the fact our weather keeps bouncing back and forth from 30's to 60's, crazy. May be a bit before I get it pulled but when I do I will contact you and see if still interested. At that time I will have a weight and dimensions for the tank and can get a decent shipping estimate. No idea what shape the cross over valve is but being a manual valve I would think it can be cleaned and re-used.

Thanks Ironhorse, that will work, I am not in a hurry, just something I want to add to mine. I look forward to hearing from you.

[El Dorado Jim]

I have a crossover valve you can have if you need it ,if the one from ironhorse doesn't work, however, if you ever get both saddle tanks and remove the in the cab tank, like I did,you would be better off using an electric motor valve from an 81-85 chevy truck.....it will switch quickly with a toggle switch..... the tank from ironhorse is probably the driver's side tank, I may have a passenger side tank, not sure yet?I promised a set of these tanks to my brother in law,will have to see what I have left after he takes his, will be soon though, maybe a month or two, let me know what tank you need....

[bthodges]

Thanks El Dorado Jim, I want to do what you have done, I'll be very interested in what you have available. Let me know. I will probably go with the later model electronic switch for convenience. Thanks Again!

[Gromit]

I can help with this one!

I have a '70 with original steel saddle tanks and here are the specs:

Weight of each tank: 50 pounds maximum (could be as little as 48 pounds)

Dimensions: 33" Long by 21" Wide by 18" High (height including stem for filler that sticks out three or four inches).

(By the way, the tank shape is a parallelogram so you can't use the above dimensions to try and compute the volume).

Liquid Capacity: Approximately 18 gallons each plus or minus a half gallon.

I agree with the previous posters - get the modern electric switch and use metal tubing. Do not plumb the two tanks using plastic tubing as they did in 1970.. Not good because the plastic tubing deteriorates and gets crumbly.

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by Gromit

I can help with this one!

I have a '70 with original steel saddle tanks and here are the specs:

Weight of each tank: 50 pounds maximum (could be as little as 48 pounds)

Dimensions: 33" Long by 21" Wide by 18" High (height including stem for filler that sticks out three or four inches).

(By the way, the tank shape is a parallelogram so you can't use the above dimensions to try and compute the volume).

Liquid Capacity: Approximately 18 gallons each plus or minus a half gallon.

I agree with the previous posters - get the modern electric switch and use metal tubing. Do not plumb the two tanks using plastic tubing as they did in 1970.. Not good because the plastic tubing deteriorates and gets crumbly.

x2 on using steel tubing....also, go to a pick n pull and get the electrical plug off of an 81-85 chevy truck , the plug that goes onto the fuel tank transfer valve, mounted underneath on the frame on the passenger side, you will need this to install the transfer valve , the transfer valve is available at any auto parts store, I would buy a new one...i have the toggle switch part # that goes in the dash.. if you need it...

[El Dorado Jim]

you can buy polished stainless steel filler doors , just google it....I modified my tanks so they fill in the fender wells in front of the rear tires...so no doors in the bed sides, maybe you can get the door from ironhorse also,and maybe find another one someplace, the original ones are aluminum...

[bthodges]

Originally Posted by Gromit

I can help with this one!

I have a '70 with original steel saddle tanks and here are the specs:

Weight of each tank: 50 pounds maximum (could be as little as 48 pounds)

Dimensions: 33" Long by 21" Wide by 18" High (height including stem for filler that sticks out three or four inches).

(By the way, the tank shape is a parallelogram so you can't use the above dimensions to try and compute the volume).

Liquid Capacity: Approximately 18 gallons each plus or minus a half gallon.

I agree with the previous posters - get the modern electric switch and use metal tubing. Do not plumb the two tanks using plastic tubing as they did in 1970.. Not good because the plastic tubing deteriorates and gets crumbly.

Thanks Gromit, great information and yes I would use metal lines, I don't trust plastic or rubber for this.

[bthodges]

To El Dorado Jim, thanks for the advice and yes I would like to get the toggle switch part number from you if it is not too much trouble. I think I would like to modify the tanks to fill in the wheel well also, the access doors in the fender will be plan B.

[Ironhorse]

Originally Posted by bthodges

Thanks Ironhorse, that will work, I am not in a hurry, just something I want to add to mine. I look forward to hearing from you.

Will most likely be a bit before I can get the tank removed. Looking at it seems it will be much easier to remove the tank once the bed is lifted off. Plan on doing that when the weather breaks and we have some decent days. Bed is not much but plans are to use it to replace the rusted out bed on my trash/scrap iron trailer. Will keep you in mind when get the tank removed.

[bthodges]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

Will most likely be a bit before I can get the tank removed. Looking at it seems it will be much easier to remove the tank once the bed is lifted off. Plan on doing that when the weather breaks and we have some decent days. Bed is not much but plans are to use it to replace the rusted out bed on my trash/scrap iron trailer. Will keep you in mind when get the tank removed.

Sounds good Ironhorse, I appreciate it and will wait to hear from you.

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

Will most likely be a bit before I can get the tank removed. Looking at it seems it will be much easier to remove the tank once the bed is lifted off. Plan on doing that when the weather breaks and we have some decent days. Bed is not much but plans are to use it to replace the rusted out bed on my trash/scrap iron trailer. Will keep you in mind when get the tank removed.

is it the drivers or passenger side tank?

[El Dorado Jim]

the toggle switch part # is 34-592,that is the pollak number,I think true value has comparable switches....it is a DPDT reversing switch.................... http://products.pollakaftermarket.co...S_41-revdd.pdf this is what I used to install mine,print it out and save it..like I said, you will need the electrical connector plug off a wrecked truck to connect to this valve

[Ironhorse]

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

is it the drivers or passenger side tank?

The tank I have is the driver's side tank. Looks to be pretty solid but also looks like would remove much easier with the bed lifted off. Seems I read on the board that the tanks use some llllooooonnnnggg threaded bolts that are hard to find. Hoping I can save them when I do pull the tank. I've been spraying best I can with PB Rust Blaster hoping that helps when I get to the point of bed removal.

[El Dorado Jim]

I found the long bolts at a fastener supplier in Sacramento.....they are 3/8" x 14" long carriage bolts, 2 per tank,,I made my own washers to use on the top, elongated to fit in the low channels in the bed...to spread the weight , so not just the carriage bolt head supporting the weight...then just used heavy fender washers on the bottom with nylock nuts http://www.u-neacfasteners.com/ this is where I got the bolts

[El Dorado Jim]

Special K just posted this in another thread, where to find the aluminum doors for these gas tanks..... http://www.pakindustries.com/addrv.html

[bthodges]

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

the toggle switch part # is 34-592,that is the pollak number,I think true value has comparable switches....it is a DPDT reversing switch.................... http://products.pollakaftermarket.co...S_41-revdd.pdf this is what I used to install mine,print it out and save it..like I said, you will need the electrical connector plug off a wrecked truck to connect to this valve

Thank you very much, this is extremely helpful.

[bthodges]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

The tank I have is the driver's side tank. Looks to be pretty solid but also looks like would remove much easier with the bed lifted off. Seems I read on the board that the tanks use some llllooooonnnnggg threaded bolts that are hard to find. Hoping I can save them when I do pull the tank. I've been spraying best I can with PB Rust Blaster hoping that helps when I get to the point of bed removal.

If you can save the bolts great, but if not I can make something work. Thanks

[bthodges]

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

I found the long bolts at a fastener supplier in Sacramento.....they are 3/8" x 14" long carriage bolts, 2 per tank,,I made my own washers to use on the top, elongated to fit in the low channels in the bed...to spread the weight , so not just the carriage bolt head supporting the weight...then just used heavy fender washers on the bottom with nylock nuts http://www.u-neacfasteners.com/ this is where I got the bolts

Thank you!!