rear coil spring removal process

[FRCvette]

I am going to install lower rear coils on my 70 this weekend. I am wondering what steps I need to take. Will I need spring suppressors? Will the coils have as much tension on them as front coils do? I will also be replacing track bar and shocks.

[kwmech]

Jack up the truck, place stands under the frame, remove tires, place floor jack under the diff, remove shocks, lower jack

[demian5]

Originally Posted by FRCvette

I will also be replacing track bar and shocks.

Thats the hard part

[GASoline71]

Be prepared to replace a lot of 40 year old rusted out hardware. I had to cut the mounting bolts out of my coil retainers with a Sawzall when I removed them. The track bar hardware and shock mounts (especially the lower ones) were pretty much shot too, but I didn't have to cut them.

Gary

[dave`12]

Not gonna argue with the processes above, but when I changed my coil springs, I chained them to the frame so that they could not fly out.

Not saying it is necessary, probably over cautious on my part, but I had the chain, so I figured why not err on the side of caution?

p.s. And they didn't try to fly.

[FRCvette]

Thanks for the help. Pretty much what I was figuring. I was planning on chaining them to the frame. Thanks

[ratty69]

You might want to get yourself a 3/4" 8-point socket. The lower spring retainers have a 3/4" square nut welded to them.

When I went to remove mine, the bolts spun freely in the trailing arms, but seized in the nuts and snapped them off the retainers. Now the only way to get them out is with the 8 point socket or an open end wrench. A wrench doesn't fit well because of the steep angle needed to reach the nuts.

[Gmc.guy]

The retainers and hardware on mine were pretty wasted and paper thin I took the tension off the springs like said above and used a hammer and chisel and worked my way around and folded the retainers in and then cut them off after the spring was out. I grabbed a new retainer set (came with new hardware) from speedway motors and they fit the stock springs real nice. I remember I couldnt get them locally

[Gromit]

Previous posters definitely sound like they have been there done that so all due respect and probably I will soon try their method.

But as a Noobie I have to ask - if the truck is sitting on the jack stands and you put the jack under the differential; wouldn't that tend to lift the rear of the truck off the jack stands even while it is trying to do what is intended which is compress both of those big ass springs enough to lift them off of their perches?? Because the bed is so much lighter than the rest of the truck.

On my other (German) cars I once used a spring compressor to remove a pair of coil springs- and holy moly were those (spring compressor tools) ever sketchy.. The whole tool bent alarmingly as it was tightened down and there is enough stored energy involved for very bad things to happen.

[FirstOwner69]

What everyone said plus...
Depending on where the truck has lived its life, the bolts through the trailing arms that retain the lower cups may be (permanently?) seized in the trailing arms. Try to avoid snapping them off or cutting them. A torch hot enough to heat the nuts to a rosy red may be your best friend.

[Gmc.guy]

With jack stands under the frame and a jack under the diff you just lift a little to take the weight of the diff off the springs and remove hardware and let jack down and remove springs It won't take the frame off the jack stands, just keeps the diff from falling once the spring is unbolted

[ratty69]

Originally Posted by Gromit

But as a Noobie I have to ask - if the truck is sitting on the jack stands and you put the jack under the differential; wouldn't that tend to lift the rear of the truck off the jack stands even while it is trying to do what is intended which is compress both of those big ass springs enough to lift them off of their perches?? Because the bed is so much lighter than the rest of the truck

The jack is just there to stop the diff from falling when you remove the spring retaining bolts. you DO NOT want weight on the jack. The springs should be totally relaxed when the diff is at full droop, and should just fall out when unbolted and jack is lowered.

[Gmc.guy]

I agree there gromit. I never understood how holding a spring that is compressed in a compressor in your hands and having to release the tension to remove it is safer than letting it down slow with a jack. I use a floor jack to let the fronts down myself. The rear you won't need to compress them. Just put a little bit of compression so it takes the weight of the diff off the springs. Chaining doesn't hurt, but I have never done it myself.

[midniteblues]

Be careful once the springs and shocks are free if you lower the axle too far you may stress the rear brake hose.

I would've been spraying rust buster on all those bolts for the past few days too give it time too penetrate.
I learned on this board a 50/50 mix of auto tranny fluid and acetone in a squirt bottle works great. But it still needs time too work.

If the spring bolts are in bad shape a sawzall with a good blade might work pretty good. To cut out the bolts or retainers.

If they look real bad sometimes it's just easier too tighten old rusty hardware to just shear them off then either with a bfh or a air chisel just punch them out.

Sometimes it's easier too drive the track bar stud mount out of the axle housing and deal with removing the stud on the bench.

Those spring compressors are not necessary also i would never use a impact or "fast" turning tool to tighten them up.
That's just asking for trouble or damage.

[GASoline71]

Rear springs don't need to be treated like front springs captured in a control arm with nothing holding them in but the weight of the rig and the ball joints.

The rear springs are held in place by bolted in retainers. Once the weight of the rig is taken off the spring and the retainers removed. They simply fall out.

I'd take heed above with the rubber brake hose though. Wouldn't wanna have to much weight pulling on that as you lower the rear end to let the springs out.

Gary

[Gromit]

Thanks - that was a good topic FRCvette - definitely saved my bacon because I had the wrong mental map as to how those springs worked.

After getting clued in by answers here I was motivated to go download the latest Strange Engineering pdf catalog.

Please see attached.

Now please don't get distracted by Crystal; and yes, she is definitely a very healthy young gal; but really I was attaching this jpg to point you to the "table of contents" page of the Strange Engineering catalog which is right next to her..

Guys? Did you hear what I said? Guys?. Hello? Look to the right of Cyrstal - it is just... just move your eyes two inches to the right and you can see the rear end housings that we were (originally) talking about.

Remember?