About to get an alternator... what do I need?

[KyleSeal]

I have a 1970 C10 that I am putting an AAW classic update wiring kit in, with HEI, and want to run an aftermarket stereo (one of the stock looking ones) from USA1 (I think it's the name). My question here is about the alternator. What do I need? I know I need an internally regulated one, for HEI, but will a stock 1973 one work (since HEI was 73+) or do I need something more?

Last question- is this AAW harness going to be able to handle the stereo and new alternator? I assume it will.
Posted via Mobile Device

[chevy72blu]

Just how big of an aftermarket stereo?

Back in HS my truck had a 700W RMS amp and 2 10" subs back on the externally regulated stock alternator. Lights would dim every time the subs hit hard. It'd kill a regulator every month and the alternator every 2-3 months. The good news is that they were lifetime warranty at the parts store... they knew me by name

Finally got sick of it and converted to 1 wire (which I'm sure your AAW harness is) and bought a Powermaster 100amp alt. Never had a single problem with it again.

[Andy4639]

Read this it tells you all you need to know.

I may add though if you do this go ahead and strip the wiring harness back from the regulator and just rune the wires straight to the alternator.



http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=119379

[samkost]

chevy72 blu
If may ask what model/part number PowerMaster alternator you used?
I have HEI on the 350 V8 and is currently a 65 amp internal one wire.
I would like to have a 100 amp.
My 72 is having the drivetrain going back soon.
Body/paint is completed and I could us some advice on an upgraded alternator.
Thanks,
Sam

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by samkost

chevy72 blu
If may ask what model/part number PowerMaster alternator you used?
I have HEI on the 350 V8 and is currently a 65 amp internal one wire.
I would like to have a 100 amp.
My 72 is having the drivetrain going back soon.
Body/paint is completed and I could us some advice on an upgraded alternator.
Thanks,
Sam

Hi Sam,

I'll try to look for the p/n but I doubt I have record of it. This was about 12-13 years ago, and I swapped the motor about 5 years ago. Currently my truck has a stock LS1 alt and a lot less boom.

AFAIK all GM alternators of that style have the same mounting requirements. If you search for the part on Summit or similar for your year/make/model replacement I'm sure it will be correct as thats how I would have bought it.

A 65A single wire will probably run everything you need just fine. May want to take a wait and see approach.

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by chevy72blu

Just how big of an aftermarket stereo?

Back in HS my truck had a 700W RMS amp and 2 10" subs back on the externally regulated stock alternator. Lights would dim every time the subs hit hard. It'd kill a regulator every month and the alternator every 2-3 months. The good news is that they were lifetime warranty at the parts store... they knew me by name

Finally got sick of it and converted to 1 wire (which I'm sure your AAW harness is) and bought a Powermaster 100amp alt. Never had a single problem with it again.

I'm going to be running a USA1 radio which isn't anything crazy, iPod aux and normal AM FM radio, and probably 2 or 3 speakers. I'm not going with any large subs. What alternator do you recommend?
Posted via Mobile Device

[lowbucktrucks]

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...erence.354291/
a good link on alt conversion

[samkost]

Thanks chevy72 blu for the reply.

I will check them out as you suggest.

[dmjlambert]

After reading on the forum and researching the differences in alternators, I decided to use a 12SI alternator for my 1969 truck. Here is one of the good articles that people on this forum have given links to before, good reading:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...elcoremy.shtml

Here is the summary as I understand it: 10SI was the first internally regulated alternator that is a direct bolt in replacement for our trucks, and it was updated a few years later with the 12SI, which has better capacity and better cooling. After that came the CS alternators at the same time as serpentine belts became the thing. You can replace the serpentine pulley with a v-belt pulley if you want to use a CS type alternator and be super modern.

I decided to get this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171668075747
and this external regulator bypass adapter:
http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...s/ca27555.html

I decided on the 12SI, that is modern enough for me, and I liked the effortless wiring harness adapter that was available for 10SI/12SI. Replacement of the alternator was pretty easy. This 12SI comes with a large ground terminal, and I made a small adapter out of a piece of sheet metal and a screw for convenience, so I could use the existing wiring and ground terminal.

One thing I have found out along the way is there is a crazy difference in quality between part store brand belts and Gates brand. I've learned my lesson and will not be buying a Duralast or MasterPro or other $6 belts that stretch, vibrate, and disintegrate after a month or two. Gates is what I recommend.

[Nomadicflyer]

Hmmm.... Great words, all! I have an American wiring harness ready to go on Miss Olive, and the alternator was reaching the top of the to do list. Thanks for all the advice!

[James the III]

Originally Posted by chevy72blu

Just how big of an aftermarket stereo?

Back in HS my truck had a 700W RMS amp and 2 10" subs back on the externally regulated stock alternator. Lights would dim every time the subs hit hard. It'd kill a regulator every month and the alternator every 2-3 months. The good news is that they were lifetime warranty at the parts store... they knew me by name

Finally got sick of it and converted to 1 wire (which I'm sure your AAW harness is) and bought a Powermaster 100amp alt. Never had a single problem with it again.

This is why they make "caps" for systems like this..
you killed parts from a faulty install..

[James the III]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

I have a 1970 C10 that I am putting an AAW classic update wiring kit in, with HEI, and want to run an aftermarket stereo (one of the stock looking ones) from USA1 (I think it's the name). My question here is about the alternator. What do I need? I know I need an internally regulated one, for HEI, but will a stock 1973 one work (since HEI was 73+) or do I need something more?

Last question- is this AAW harness going to be able to handle the stereo and new alternator? I assume it will.
Posted via Mobile Device

1985-1986 305ho powered Pontiac t/a.. 100 amp alt. bolts in.. (correct clocking) just need to swap serp belt pulley to your v belt one.. (bolts on, easy swap) and you just have to wire truck for the internal regulator.. (you are already using this wiring anyways)
This is more than enough .. and cheap and easy to get at any parts store..

[dfwright]

I have a '72, with a 350 engine. I just did the same thing. I ordered a remanufactured ACDELCO PRO 334-2114 alternator. Be aware that there are various "clock" settings which move the connector to different locations on the back. This was the model that worked for how my wiring was going.

I also used the AAW Classic update kit - This Alternator and your Radio will both be handled by the classic update kit without any issue. The AAW kit has both radio power, and a "memory feed" input for the radio to keep the stations programmed when main power is turned off by the key.

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by James the III

1985-1986 305ho powered Pontiac t/a.. 100 amp alt. bolts in.. (correct clocking) just need to swap serp belt pulley to your v belt one.. (bolts on, easy swap) and you just have to wire truck for the internal regulator.. (you are already using this wiring anyways)
This is more than enough .. and cheap and easy to get at any parts store..

Is it 100Amp or 108? I just went to the parts store and they don't have a listing for a100.
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[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

I know I need an internally regulated one, for HEI, but will a stock 1973 one work (since HEI was 73+) or do I need something more?

I am using an HEI in my 1972 GMC with the stock externally regulated alternator. What alternator you use should have no bearing on using an HEI distributor.

Gary

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

Last question- is this AAW harness going to be able to handle the stereo and new alternator? I assume it will.
Posted via Mobile Device

The AAW classic update kit is designed for switch over to the internal regulator alt. The kit also does not support keeping your ammeter. So they basically set the kit up for modern dash, stereos... ext all things power. With your setup you don't need 100amp. But you can get one if you think you need it, just not necessary. I put in a cheap 65 amp( or whatever was cheap, I'd have to look at it). In your instructions one of the pages has a big STOP sign. Read that first. I think that is the page(s) that tells you you will lose the external regulator and a few other need to knows before you start the installation.

So yes, the kit will handle all you're asking about. Just follow the yellow brick road. AAW instructions are pretty complete and detailed.

[ohboy321]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

I am using an HEI in my 1972 GMC with the stock externally regulated alternator. What alternator you use should have no bearing on using an HEI distributor.

Gary

Thanks for mentioning this. I also have an externally regulated alternator with and HEI distributor and was a little concerned. I feed my MSD Streetfire HEI with a full 12V though a relay without any issues.

[hdff]

sub'd

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by ohboy321

Thanks for mentioning this. I also have an externally regulated alternator with and HEI distributor and was a little concerned. I feed my MSD Streetfire HEI with a full 12V though a relay without any issues.

I have 2 trucks, A] '68 C/10 Stepside w/292 L6, and B] '71 GMC Jimmy K/1500 w/350 V8. I now run HEI on both, and both trucks have EVRs [external voltage regulators]. If you have a good EVR, it won't interfere with the electronic ignition. But a malfunctioning EVR will spike up past 16 VDC at high RPMs and kill the module.
I once ran a PerTronix Ignitor II [+ Flametrower II coil] on the 292, (since HEIs for L6s were harder to find). Worked great for about 7 years in the widely divergent temperature ranges of Southern Arizona. Then one day -- when running on the freeway to get its annual emissions test -- the whole ignition circuit died at speed and I'd have to kick in the clutch, turn the key Off, then On, let the drivetrain slow to about 55 MPH and pop start in 4th or 3rd gear.
This glitch went on any time I exceeded 60-65 MPH. I finally deduced it was the EVR gone bad, but not before going back to point-triggered [stock for '68] ignition for a year-and-a-half to get a baseline. After going thru a few "Lifetime Warranty" EVRs, I finally got a good one. I converted to HEI on the 292 L6 last December, and it's running great.
I have the EVR-Delete jumper [from M+H thru Brothers] so I can upgrade to a 10SI or 12SI alternator, but haven't acquired the unit yet. There's a cool-looking, all black, 100 amper for about $100 bucks, I'm drooling over at Jeg's, but I'm broke right now.

[VetteVet]

This link should be very helpful.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417872

and here's where to get a cs 144


https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...4+alternator&*

[James the III]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

Is it 100Amp or 108? I just went to the parts store and they don't have a listing for a100.
Posted via Mobile Device

I rounded it off. as I wasn't 100% sure of the amp rating..


remy #20268 94 amp
ac delco #3342198 94 amp

[davepl]

In my truck and several other cars I have always used ACDelco 321-266 (AC-DELCO # 321-266, Lester #7294-3).

It's a 12SI, 94amp, for a 1984 Camaro with AC and so on, and has served me well in all retro applications. I think it's clocked at 3PM but can be changed on the fly.

[Mike_The_Grad]

Which AAW kit are you installing? I installed their "Classic Update Series " in my 72 c10. Probably the wisest and smartest upgrade I've done to the truck. Take their and my advice and invest in a good quality crimping tool. I didn't use the correct crimper, took me a lot longer than it could have if I had the right tool. But I still did it. Also, I recommend soldering and heat shrink tubing every terminal. I did, it took a while, but I don't have to worry about a terminal working it's way loose, or the inset of corrosion at the crimp. I have a kenwood deck wired into my dash. It's bluetooth, satellite radio,HD Radio, AUX. Input, USB connector, capable. Also kenwood 6" component speakers with 2" tweeters wired into my kick panels. No problems with my 10SI 73 amp alternator and hei. Those AAW kits are awesome.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by ohboy321

Thanks for mentioning this. I also have an externally regulated alternator with and HEI distributor and was a little concerned. I feed my MSD Streetfire HEI with a full 12V though a relay without any issues.

I am using an MSD Pro-billet HEI and an MSD Digital 6A-L box with no issues. I carry a spare voltage regulator in my glove box. Always have with older externally regulated rigs.

I also have a new engine harness and new front harness that are both from M&H Autowire. I ordered the engine harness with the HEI drop. The wire comes out of the plastic channel and looks like a factory install.

Gary