Undecided what to do with my 53. Help and suggestions please

[1953]

Is the s10 swap a good choice for the 53 Chevy 3600? Is there any hidden surprises I should know about before I get this project underway, will it be practically lile the 3100 ? I know my truck bed is a bit longer then the 3100

[dsraven]

you can always shorten the bed if you want a regular length.

[1953]

Yes that b is my plan to shorten it right now my truck is all original except the rims lol I want to make it a good driver dependable good stopping power everything, I wish there was a way to do this and drop it a bit with stock chassis, I mean I'm sure there is but the s10 swap seems to be best route

[whitedog76]

The ext. cab Ranger has a 125.9 wheel base. Not to mention the track width is a little wider than the S10. A 60" Explorer rear will make everything about spot on with the original rear width.

98 and newer had IFS with rack and pinion.

[Jesse Z]

I have a 3600 on S10.

The 3600 wheelbase is too long to fit any configuration of the S10 without modification. I believe the longest S10 frame is the longbed and it is midway between the 3100 and 3600 in length, requiring either shortening the bed (must also fabricate new lower splash panels) or the lengthening the S10 frame (must also lengthen the drive shaft, brake lines, fuel lines, etc). I did the former.

[1953]

I want to keep original motor and tranny I have the 216 3 speed 53 3600 the only thing I want to do is lower it a few inches and change the bolt pattern and put power brakes, front I would do the brake conversion, rear end would be changed. Would like some nice rims to fit.

What exact differential can I use with stock engine and tranny?

How can It lower it without to much work?

Truck was my father's and I want to keep it all original for most part.

[abig84]

That was the problem I ran into when thinking of the s10 swap for my 3800, my wheelbase is 137 inches. I think the longest s10 is 121 ( I think) or something like that.

I decided against it though as I'm a fan of the 1tons and decided to keep it that way. S10s are a dime a dozen though

[whitedog76]

Found this the other day. FATMAN has an 8 lug kit. Page 22

http://www.fatmanfab.com/wp-content/...oleCat_web.pdf

I'm guessing it's base on their 60" kit that uses 73-87 spindles.

A little pricey, but cool.

[1953]

Have a 1953 3600 I'm trying to identify the rear differential I found some numbers (3682126) and a square stamp with letter 6 in it can somone shed some light on what I have here

[mongocanfly]

Can you post a picture of the whole rear end?

[1953]

Sure hive me a few mins

[mongocanfly]

Found this on stovebolt.http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/...&Number=626620

[1953]

Here

[mongocanfly]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...ho72-ho52.html

[1953]

Ok what would be a preferred differential for 53 3600 all stock that's my next question would prefer a 6 lug pattern, also what ratio would I need for the 216 engine

[Henry50]

You need a 55 or later 1/2 ton rearend, 6 lug open driveshaft.

[1953]

I was thinking that but finding one may be a Hassel

[whitedog76]

That's an HO52 rearend. Most likely 4.57 geared. You can get a 4.10 center section from a 67-72 truck, but they're as rare as hen's teeth.

The 216 lacks a lot of power. I wouldn't try anything more than a 3.73 rear.

You could always dump the 3 speed in favor of a T5 trans.

[1953]

Will the t5 trans bolt up and to the 216 then hmm never thought of that I'm new to the classic truck game so learning as I go, what benefits would I get from that with the rear I have now, honestly I'm considering a V8 swap right now the truck was my father's who passed who made it clear he wanted the truck to stay all original, bit it's just not realistic for me what motor trans and rear would-be a good options?

[dsraven]

If you plan on an engine swap you may want to think about buying a complete wreck from insurance write off auction. That way you get a modern engine with fuel injection that will start easily, run smoothly and not stink out the tailpipe. You also get an overdrive trans and a diff possibly with rear disc brakes. Whatever you do will be a project if you plan to swap the driveline. It is the start of the slippery slope of hotrodding. Never done cause the grass is always greener on the other aide of the larking lot. Haha
Good luck, keep us posted with pics.

[dsraven]

Sorry, typo. Other SIDE of the parking lot.

To swap engine you may run into oil pan iszues hitting solid axle or exhaust manifolds hitting steering box. Trans needs to swap as well because of the match up to a v8. Then rear axle needs to go because of the trans to torque tube driveline match up issues.just sayin, do the homework first so you understand what you need before you start.

[1953]

Yeah definitely doing my homework first I was thinking small block they seem to be the choice for old farm trucks, I've been contemplating a whole chassis swap also in the future I guess for now I want to restore to complete original again

[dsraven]

if you are thinking S10 then browse through the S10 chassis swap thread above. use the search bar to check out other guys who have done it and see if you like it or not.
if looking at an engine swap, small block or LS or inline 6, then ask around as well because there is definately more to it than a simple drop in.
-fuel injected ls engine or small block chevy or newer inline 6
-engine mounts
-oil pan to clear axle
-trans crossmember
-rear axle, rear springs, park brake connection issues
-driveshaft
-brake upgrade to stop as fast as you can go. dual master cylinder system, power brakes upgrade
-exhaust replacement full system
-wiring, swap over to alternator?
-radiator
-exhaust manifolds or headers to clear steering box
-throttle linkage
-fuel tank upgrade if going fuel injection, or just to get the tank out of the cab for safety reasons
-costs for all the stuff plus margin for stuff you have no idea you will need till the time comes. can you do all this yourself or sub it out?

just a heads up. not trying to discourage, just saying that a lot of guys go into a swap or upgrade and then it fizzles out due to unforseen or unknown costs or the level of expertise required gets to be more than anticipated or the buddy who said he would help has other commitments. then the project is stalled until it either gets sold off, parted out or money is spent to get it finished at a shop.
anyway, do some realistic number crunchng and have a plan before you start, then stick to it because it is easy to start down the road where "I might as well do this while it is apart" and then that leads to more time or money investment.
keep it real. ask advice, have fun. post pics

[Mw548]

Im getting near the end of my 3800 s10 swap (9ft bed) and the biggest difference i noticed is the fuel tank isnt a concern hitting the cab because its so far back also you will have to extend all fuel brake lines and drive shaft most of the other stuff is all the same. I went with the cheapest s10 i could find since i had to extend the frame anyways. I found a reg cab short bed for 400$ ended up extending 28 inches i believe it was. It was alot of extra work to keep the 9ft bed but worth it in the end.

[Mw548]

Im getting near the end of my 3800 s10 swap and the biggest difference i noticed is the fuel tank isnt a concern hitting the cab because its so far back also you will have to extend all fuel brake lines and drive shaft most of the other stuff is all the same. I went with the cheapest s10 i could find since i had to extend the frame anyways. I found a reg cab short bed for 400$ ended up extending 28 inches i believe it was.